Remember, we took the main pulley nut off, does that have to be torqued down to a certain spec.?

 

No, not really. We just need to slip it back on and hit it with the impact. I'll do it when I bring the hoist over. You free for a few minutes Saturday?

 

Yeah in the afternoon

 

I am trying to work out a time with Collin to get the compression guage. If I can get it this morning, perhaps we can hook up this afternoon. Sounds like you guys are planning to get together anyway. If not, I'll try to get it tomorrow and we can work out a time to check out the engines.

 

I'd love to join you guys but if I don't get the pantry sheet rocked and painted so I can put the cabinets that are cluttering up the sitting room I just finished back in Cathy is going to divorce me.

I removed that main pulley bolt from the engine in my brown 85 GSL once, not knowing that you are not supposed to do that. Like Crit says, it shouldn't matter, I just put it back in and cranked down on it with my PVC breaker bar.

 

Kevin,

Can you send me you address. I talked with Crit and I am planning to come by around 2:00 to check out the engines. If you want to call me, my cell is 404-217-5096.

 

Hey Mr. Mike, why don't you put that good tranny in while you are at it?

 

It is already part of the plan. Along with air cotrol valve blockoff plates, a dual alternator pulley, and pilot bearing (and inspect the clutch).

Unfortunately, the engine Kevin offerred has about the same compression as the Gray Ghost. The Ghost is running around 45-50 psi on all faces of both rotors. So it is getting a little tired.

Guys, I had the battery tested and it was good. I think tomorrow or Monday I am going to take the starter in and have it checked. You are right, the engine is spinning slow when trying to start.

 

well guys...so it turns out i have been extremely busy over the past 3 weeks, working on this RX-7 of mine. in this time i have learned alot more things about these cars, and have overall become more mechanically inclined. like i said i would, the 1st thing i did was remove the louver kit on the rear hatch. then all of this follwed...i tuned her up, cleaned the carburator, replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, installed a new radiator, painted the engine bay, changed the oil and added a K&N oil filter, upgraded to an FC alternator, widened the exhuast down pipe to 2.5" and ran it into a magnaflow muffler, cut off all cat converters and removed the emission control system (air pump), added a edelbrock 650 cfm air filter assembly to the nikki 4-barrel and converted to an electric fan.

here are some photos of before and after....


[B]BEFORE[B]




AFTER



all the work you see above was done in about 3 weeks time on a salary of around $100 a week as a fedex package handler...

 

So my car did that thing where it doesn't want to start today after work. I played in the parking lot for about half an hour, then went back inside and got some speaker wire, put one end on the + of the battery, and started touching the other end to different parts of the ignition. I found the right one, taped the wire on there, and now it drives fine. When I got home I rewired it better and threw a switch in, and although it's working correctly with the key now, I'm leaving it on until I swap steering columns and ignitions and door locks and hatch locks.

And with the switch on, I can turn the key off and take it out with the car still running. It's like a turbo timer

I might just leave tomorrow night for FLORDIAAAAA !

Now go clean up those wires

 

lol i know its definitely not the prettiest wiring job in the world, but it works. not too bad considering thats the 1st time i have done an electric fan conversion by myself.

 

You have more compression than that, its hard to say exactly what it is but Crits Compression tester isnt accurate

 

Hey Hotmazda, with the air pump removed, you can go ahead and throw that rat's nest out of the car and clean it up further.

 

yeah i have thought about that, but i'm afraid to attempt it by myself. i have considered having that done by a professional. all my other friends who have done it have always had trouble with vacuum leaks afterward. whats the best and easiest way to do it?

 

Just be better than your friends. With the additional solenoids and vacuum lines removed, there's no good reason to have vacuum leaks other than carelessness. You'll have less to troubleshoot and less possibility for vacuum leaks. I'd buy an ACV blockoff plate and ACV gasket from Mazdatrix, a heat shield from respeed, and get to simplifying.

 

A thing of beauty Josh, nice work. Looks like you are about ready to put your 2GDFI in?

If you're really tough like us Georgia boys you can ditch the AC and PS for about 100 lbs weight loss and about 100X less clutter, makes changing the plugs a snap.

Mike I have a spare starter if you need it. Are you sure you put Crit's compression tester in the right hole? It should look like this:

 

the mismisread with Crits has something to do with the size of the hose

 

I went to Billy's today and got another driveshaft so I should be able to drive the 7 tuesday

 

Elizabeth is liscensed in Ga if you need a good divorce lawyer

 

Yeah but whose side would she be on Dave? You know how those women stick together.

Good luck with that drive shaft Kevin, seems like everybody's got repairs but me. My turn next week.

They are predicting snow on Tuesday, should be interesting.

 

Snow? Hell yeah I missed the snow in February. I assume the regular meet is still going on this tuesday? Car looks like **** right now but is on the path for new paint by the following meet if everything works out right.

 

Yours of course! you have rotors and goats!! Both of which we'll take as a retainer
Snow!!Bleh!, Keep it down there would ya! Always sending the weather you don't want anymore up here...

Billy: How is the floor coming along on the Repu? I am excited to lend my part to the project.

 

So I was currious about the how much of an error there is due to the length of hose used. One of you eng-i-neers check the logic and the math.

Assume: the hose is 18" long with an ID of 1/4" (45.7 cm long, .3 cm ID)

I caluculate the volume of the hose to be 12.91482 cc. [v=3.14*(.03*.03)*45.7]

1100 cc engine, each rotor is 550 cc.

12.91482 / 550 = .023481 ~ 2%

So I caculate about 2% of additional volume by introducing the hose.

If I assume the PSI is proportionally reduced by the increase in volume, then the error induced by the the hose is about 2%. I think we are getting PSI from the tester, is that right?

So each face of both rotors showed 45 - 50 PSI. If I take the highend and add 2% for the error, I am still only around 51 PSI. Still probably a tired engine, but at least all faces are reading about the same.

Is this close to right???

 

Ray, if you think of it bring the starter tomorrow night. I'll swap starters and see if it makes a difference. If it does, I take my starter back to Autozone and have them test it. I think I have a life time warranty on the starter. Either way, I'll return yours back to Jefferson inventory.

BTW, I have been able to start the car the past 2 days. Since the starter does seem to be spinning slower, I made the idle mixture slightly richer and increased the idle speed to about 800 RPM. I also, stopped using the choke, thinking that with the slow starter speed I need to maximize air flow. Anyway, the car started last night and this morning. We'll see what it does after work today.

Now the question about Crit's compression tester being in the right hole conjures up all sorts of responses. But, Crit, Kevin, and Billy where there when we tested the compression. Not that I couldn't lead them astray, but I suspect we got in the right hole.

 

Let's just do this in the Lord's units.

0.25 diameter hose. 70cid displacement of a 12A. 35cid per rotor. At 9.0:1 compression, the TDC headspace is 35/9 = 3.8888 cubic inches.

My hose is 0.25 in diameter, which yields a 0.125 radius. pi * r^2 * L gives the volume of the hose, which is 3.14159*.125*.125*18 = 0.883 cubic inches. You've now diluted your compressed volume from 3.888 ci to 4.7715 ci, plus the volume of the fitting and gauge.

The resultant compression ratio that you'd be measuring, would be 35cid / 4.7715 = 7.3:1.

So an ideal engine with perfect seals would only measure a compression ratio of 7.3 plus the additional losses. Significantly lower.

Mike, if you're still running the stock aluminum cables, I'd check them as well. When cranking, you should see 12V between the starter cable and ground cable, on the block and the starter lug. If you've got less than 12V, it's because there's significant resistance along the cables. I'll bring my voltmeter. I'd clean your connections, too. Your cranking speed is definitely lower than the rest of us.

Hey Jeff, I see you lurking on the page. You coming out?