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As I await tools, jack stands etc. a few questions as I look over the manual. Do I need to remove the hood to get radiator out? Do I need to disassemble and remove the fan assembly?
then I would also cap the the inlet to the bottom of the engine from the exit side of the heater core? In other words I really don't need either hose, from the radiator to the inlet of heater core and I don't need the hose from heater core back to the engine (below the oil filter(?)
Yes - my post might have been a little confusing. I'm talking about the small bottom outlet on the radiator side. Still need the lower and upper big ones going to the water pump housing.
Decided to throw my Mac Tool rep a bone today and bought a cooling system pressure tester. Wanted one for years now but wasn't prepared to drop 400 bucks on the Snap On kit. Mac was half the cost, so I figure I justify it that way lol
My abundance of cheap worm gear clamps are starting to irritate me.. I went OE on my heater core inlet clamps, and now am planning on getting some OE Mazda spring clamps, if they're still available, for everything else.
Need to track down wherever my leak is this weekend and see if I can nip it.
Replaced a few rivets on my top mount today while at work, which was nice.
Next big purchase will be a racing beat downpipe so that the rest of my exhaust fits properly.
Yes - my post might have been a little confusing. I'm talking about the small bottom outlet on the radiator side. Still need the lower and upper big ones going to the water pump housing.
Kansas? I just appreciate the input. If you been reading this thread lately I'm the guy who does not work on cars. This little project is my first since I put a header, Holley, hurst shift, Bosch 009 ignition on my bug back in the day. I'm actually reluctant to do any of this myself without a watchful eye but honestly if I take slow I should be ok. I've had three rx7's and never had to do anything to them myself. I don't want to hurt this "award Winning " prize. I know this whole thing should be simple to most of you guys but I always worry about doing that certain something stupid that screws the pooch. It sits in my garage for first time ever... unable to drive. And That is what's driving me right now. I hate this **** of seeing it on the way to my truck and knowing I have to fix it to drive it!! I don't know how you guys do it on those long drawn out projects. I just live to drive mine... all the time.
Yes - my post might have been a little confusing. I'm talking about the small bottom outlet on the radiator side. Still need the lower and upper big ones going to the water pump housing.
boiled down to this. I can cap the radiator outlet to heater core in. I can cap the inlet return under the oil filter. Then just cap off the firewall in/out to keep the critters out. Essentially all circulation is confined to the engine only this way?) there's no negative effect from doing this. (?)
To me, it doesn't make sense anyway to carry coolant across the side and back of the engine along the firewall just to bypass what it was going there for in the first place just so it can return to the engine. (?) I have no intention of addressing the heat going forward anyway.
As I await tools, jack stands etc. a few questions as I look over the manual. Do I need to remove the hood to get radiator out? Do I need to disassemble and remove the fan assembly?
I'm not sure if it's necessary, but I always did. The RX-7 hood is much easier to handle and later align that the typical hood. you'll definitely need to remove the fan and clutch from the water pump mount - should be two quick sessions of 4 bolts each to get it all off.
On another note. This may seem strange but then again perfectly appropriate. After all this is a car forum. Would be too much trouble to if any or all of you' could post a nice pic or two of your 7's? Ya see I identify people better by their ride(s). Helps me put a face to car. I think some of you guys have more than one (😡. I'll start by posting a pic of my AWARD WINNING 7 at DGRR.
Ok now it's your turns!!!
Well things are coming together. Got my new floor jack delivered today. Bought a 220 pc craftsmen tool kit, pair of jack stands, funnels, drain pan. Still need other basics, work light, channel locks, metric open/box end wrenches. Managed to get her up and drained the block and radiator. Coolant coming out was impressively clear and clean. Upper and lower shrouds removed, fan unbolted, fan shroud screws removed, top bottom rad sensors unplugged, battery removed, top hose removed. Going down under tomorrow. There's one clamp that's totally facing away from a screwdriver or ratchet. Hoping I don't have remove air filter box, lower canister, mas air flow sensor intake. If I do it'll be a little more fun than anticipated. So far I'm impressed with just how really clean all the screws and pieces parts are for 32 years old. The original plating is still predominant on all the fasteners!!! Just demonstrates how little rain this car has seen in its long life. Almost like working on s new car. Absolutely nothing is corroded at all.
One other cool thing is all of these little spring steel rubber dipped bendable tabs all over the place!! Mazda was really thinking long term to include such niceties.
More good news! Laying underneath and got to finally inspect bottom of radiator.. it's so clean and solid. Cant see too much green mold oxidation on fins either. Barely any. I think this radiator is going to be just fine stripped dipped and repainted. To me that's a relief..so far.
Very nice!!! The bay of that beige one reminded me that I need to clean and possibly paint my fan impellers. Any paint you know of suitable for that kind of plastic? Great pics Ray!!! Thank you !! Was that last pic Mussolini?
This seems to be the safest heater core bypass method I've seen yet. PVC elbows with straight ends. I think I can even get the barbed plastic for better hose retention. I hate standard hose clamps but like the ones the rx7 has stock. Are those type clamps still available? With this method I still get install the new heater hoses .
Paul, I have a good heater core if you need one, actually one or two or three.
Might be handy on a humid day when you need a little heat on the windshield.
Shipping is free, as long as you pick it up.
I had one. Had the whole dash board out and decided it wasn't worth the effort to replace. Besides I don't think it's the core leaking I think it's the valve above it. Honestly I don't need heat. Never drive below 55 degrees. And that's fine w me. Car hates 50 degrees and lower.
I walked all the way through your photo bucket. Looks like you guys had some great times together. The LE is a real keeper. Hell they all are!! Lol.. ray! Why was one called the turd? And.. you sure do seem to like those gruesome beehives.!? Today I'm pulling the radiator. Then it's off to find a local source to have serviced. While I'm in there I'm going to track down the oil seep (very minor) in the filter pedestal. It's got to be a simple fix.
The Tan, White, Brown (Turd) and Silver Ones were my commute mobiles for the daily 110 mile trip into Atlanta and back for more than 10 years and 200,000+ miles. Lot's of inexpensive and fun transportation in those FB's.
Instead of bothering with that oil leak in your pedestal (why are FMOC systems always leaking?!?) you could just upgrade to a Beehive cooler.
The Beehive is a way more intelligent design; being a water/oil heat exchanger, it's much more efficient than the air cooled FMOC.
Let me know, I have a few spares.
It was named the Turd because, well... I'd rather not say.
Last edited by ray green; May 7, 2017 at 09:58 AM.
The Tan, White, Brown (Turd) and Silver Ones were my commute mobiles for the daily 110 mile trip into Atlanta and back for more than 10 years and 200,000+ miles. Lot's of inexpensive and fun transportation in those FB's.
Instead of bothering with that oil leak in your pedestal (why are FMOC systems always leaking?!?) you could just upgrade to a Beehive cooler.
The Beehive is a way more intelligent design; being a water/oil heat exchanger, it's much more efficient than the air cooled FMOC.
Let me know, I have a few spares.
It was named the Turd because, well... I'd rather not say.
thank you but the beehive would be out of character for a SE. The fmoc makes sense because it gets cool air. Mine isn't leaking but a new pair of braided lines are in my near future. I'm pretty sure I just need a couple oem O rings and a general cleaning of the area. The more I get my hands dirty on mine the more I realize it was designed so an idiot can do general maintenance. Doing the fuel rail, fuel and vac hoses, injectors etc is going to be a challenge for me. One that I'm starting to look forward to.
. I'll start by posting a pic of my AWARD WINNING 7 at DGRR.
