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perfect.. thank you. I actually have some Mazda hoses still in original bags that came with the car 12 years ago. Not sure which ones yet. This will get the rest I don't have. Think I'm going to bypass the heater core since it leaks and I haven't used it since I bought it in 2005. In this case I'll have to get a hose from the radiator all the way back to bottom of the block under the oil fill tube.
The drama at DGRR! Will Robert win again? Will Ray show up? Will Billy show up?
What happened to a simple compression test? Will the 2nd place first gen ever run again?
We find out these and other answers when Paul posts his DGRR experience up for all to read.
Ray, that carbie looks real pretty. Did you fatten it up? Hone it out? Can't wait to see the LE running.
I have just one question: Who did the goat vote for? I think he was the swing vote for
Trumps election. Your goats just a beer swilling, redneck republican Ray. He has you fooled.
perfect.. thank you. I actually have some Mazda hoses still in original bags that came with the car 12 years ago. Not sure which ones yet. This will get the rest I don't have. Think I'm going to bypass the heater core since it leaks and I haven't used it since I bought it in 2005. In this case I'll have to get a hose from the radiator all the way back to bottom of the block under the oil fill tube.
Just join the stock hoses with a tube right at the firewall where they would connect to the
heater core. That way you can keep stock hoses and go back to using the heater when
you fix it.
Paul, you have a lot of rubber stuff to replace to make sure you are reliable. All the
hoses in the engine bay, the brake lines, the clutch line, the bushings in the suspension,
engine and tranny mounts.
These are all >30 years old and about rotten by now.
Just join the stock hoses with a tube right at the firewall where they would connect to the
heater core. That way you can keep stock hoses and go back to using the heater when
you fix it.
Paul, you have a lot of rubber stuff to replace to make sure you are reliable. All the
hoses in the engine bay, the brake lines, the clutch line, the bushings in the suspension,
engine and tranny mounts.
These are all >30 years old and about rotten by now.
I never got the chance to show you guys the list of upgrades done at 110k (now 119k). Already replaced the front wheel bearings, rotors, brake pads, re-built brake calipers, braided hoses, new MC w/braided. Carlos put a used but good slave in for me in savanna. All the suspension is new. Replaced all the bushings front and back with new end links etc. new bushings in pitman arm, urethane and new rubber front back suspension. Removed dipped and had professional welder fix oil cooler and a new supply line. Removed intake and I made a new gasket for it since old one desintigrated. The coolant hoses are next and yes all the vac and fuel lines are next too. We installed a RB header full exhaust too. Did nothing to the engine. Carlos said I should advance the time 5 degrees since the header. Haven't done that yet. I'll post the entire list of what was done later. Basically the car had a "minor restoration" winter if 14-15. I gave Carlos my radiator from my 84 SE but I might have to get it back if the current one can't be properly serviced.
It's tempting Crit, the conversations would be effervescent.
But see below at the end of my rant, this evening I'll be all greasy and full of happiness, not a good time to be talking politics.
You're sounding like a true OGTA there Paul, getting a little greasy yourself.
Next thing you know you'll be shopping for the Real Deal, an FB with a 12A and a Nikki.
Nirvana is in your future.
Tim goats are not allowed to vote in Jefferson. Neither are Democrats.
That's why Republicans keep getting elected in Georgia.
It's like Apartheid South Africa, an increasingly dwindling white minority ruling over an increasingly disenfranchised and angry majority.
As you know, faced with choosing between reform and a violent uprising, in 1989 F.W. deKlerk began negotiations that led to a relatively peaceful transition of power, with South Africa's first free general election in 1993 and Nelson Mandela, after 27 years a political prisoner, elected President.
Let us hope that when the time comes the current American Ruling Class has the good sense of South African Apartheid and transitions a peaceful return to Democracy. The Red Necks I know can be pretty darn smart when they need to and I am hopeful for better days.
However with the current Regime Leader claiming (just this morning!) that the Civil War wasn't necessary (ie, with Andrew Jackson's help we could have worked out a deal to sustain slavery in some states, you know that Birth of a Nation thing, and avoided the Civil War) the prospects don't look too good.
OK, time to go work on the LE.
Last edited by ray green; May 2, 2017 at 11:24 AM.
Now that funny right there, I don't care who you are, or what party you are in , that's just plain funny!!
I've always been a little slow on the "uptake" but now I realize who "rwatson5651" is.!! ROBERT!! Sorry for keeping you up past your bedtime Saturday night. But you have to admit that the episode at the set of "Deliverance" was one you wouldn't want to miss. in the end that guy had his heart in the right place. just glad we all made it out of his backyard safe. Funny how he disappeared the moment state police showed up!! Ha..Who is the "Billy" you guys refer to coming to OGTA tonight? If he's anything like the rest of you then I'm anxious to meet him.
I have an 84 original "shop manual" Mazda rx7. Since learning so much at DGRR I'm wondering if there is any differences between 84-85 SE's(?) I'm pretty sure they are 98-99% identical but if there are any nuances I should be aware of?
84 and 85 FSM's are essentially the same, not a problem.
I wouldn't be interested in that gold 81 for several reasons:
1) the price
2) the whale tail on an otherwise stock body - seriously?
3) the rust (it's from Ohio, it has rust)
4) the mileage (it's either a lie - fake news if you prefer - or it's a sure sign there's something wrong, kind of like a 30 year old virgin)
5) It's a 1981, the very worst of the FB years
6) The dash is cracked.
7) I already have two rust free 83 FB projects, one white (the GSL), one chateau silver metallic (the LE), both with mint red leather interiors - it don't get no better than that.
Better to find a rust free non-running GA FB for less than $1000 (less than $500 much better) and go from there.
I have an 84 original "shop manual" Mazda rx7. Since learning so much at DGRR I'm wondering if there is any differences between 84-85 SE's(?) I'm pretty sure they are 98-99% identical but if there are any nuances I should be aware of?
There are a few changes between 84 and 85 SEs, most notably the long intake snorkel that crosses the nose and draws air from the battery box. None of the differences are important, though.
84 and 85 FSM's are essentially the same, not a problem.
I wouldn't be interested in that gold 81 for several reasons:
1) the price
2) the whale tail on an otherwise stock body - seriously?
3) the rust (it's from Ohio, it has rust)
4) the mileage (it's either a lie - fake news if you prefer - or it's a sure sign there's something wrong, kind of like a 30 year old virgin)
5) It's a 1981, the very worst of the FB years
6) The dash is cracked.
7) I already have two rust free 83 FB projects, one white (the GSL), one chateau silver metallic (the LE), both with mint red leather interiors - it don't get no better than that.
Better to find a rust free non-running GA FB for less than $1000 (less than $500 much better) and go from there.
actually I was kidding. There will not be 12a in my life going forward. Been there done this hat. I only pointed that one out because a friend up there wanted to know if it was a good car to buy his kid. I really didn't look at it close. Just thought it might get a rise out of you.
There are a few changes between 84 and 85 SEs, most notably the long intake snorkel that crosses the nose and draws air from the battery box. None of the differences are important, though.
i figured as much. As for that "straw" intake? I already deleted it.
Quick question. I'll figure this out when I look at it closer but here goes. When I get the tubing needed for all the vac and fuel lines will I need to remove the upper intake assembly? (Epitrochoid?) To get to them? Or in your opinions can all this bee done with everything still intact? Same question on the fuel rail, can I remove the injectors without removing everything above it? I'm pretty sure the last question is a NO.
Quick question. I'll figure this out when I look at it closer but here goes. When I get the tubing needed for all the vac and fuel lines will I need to remove the upper intake assembly? (Epitrochoid?) To get to them? Or in your opinions can all this bee done with everything still intact? Same question on the fuel rail, can I remove the injectors without removing everything above it? I'm pretty sure the last question is a NO.
The plenum and upper manifold have to come off for both, Paul. It's necessary for the fuel rail, too. The good news is that other than losing a little coolant it's a totally clean and painless thing to do. You can leave the airbox in place and remove it all in a few big chunk. Intake and throttle body come off, then plenum, then upper manifold.
This is my first SE that I bought back after 20 years belonged to a employee. The engine/trans that Mike got from came from this car with 88k on it. It never got finished This car took first place.. we think. If I'd kept mine and finished it.. who knows? Maybe I would've wound up with second and third(?) lol
The plenum and upper manifold have to come off for both, Paul. It's necessary for the fuel rail, too. The good news is that other than losing a little coolant it's a totally clean and painless thing to do. You can leave the airbox in place and remove it all in a few big chunk. Intake and throttle body come off, then plenum, then upper manifold.
well I'm a little bit wary of going that far on my own. My buddy Kenny wants to come down and help me which I'm totally confident w him in the mix. The only problem is logistically speaking I'd have to wait for him to return if I send out injectors. On the other hand is it better to purchase two new or used injectors and send them out and back before Kenny joins me? Are they hard to find? If new of course they don't need rebuilt. But I'm thinking new isn't possible.
Found a place called Andys autosport. They sell them new. Also found eBay that had rebuild kits. Which would you guys do? After all there just isn't much to an injector. Andys carries Blitz or HKS. Any opinions..?? You guys are gonna hate me because I'm going to be asking a ton of questions. Lol.. blow me and just answer the fooking questions.. lmao!!!
Ok I'm thinking I need to compile a shopping list. Now bear with me because I'm speaking totally off the cuff. First the rundown of what I need to accomplish.
the end game is to have replaced all the water hoses. Replace all the fuel lines. Replace all the vacuum lines. Thank you Crit fir telling what needs to come off so I know what im in for. You all probably think pineapple inserts aren't really necessary but if I'm going to stay mostly stock it can't hurt the added air flow to the 5-6 ports. Also I'd like to address 5-6 port proper activation. I've read what Kevin Landers would do and there's a few ways short of just wiring them open. Opinions welcome.
I need to compile a check list of things to purchase. Btw, the goal is to have buddy Kenny come down and supervise my work. I'm going to see this through Ray. Yes I AM going to do this work. I know this is a sophomore project but gotta start somewhere. I want to have everything we need here so we can do it all in a weekend. I think that should be doable.
On the the water hoses. I already have an old but never used upper and lower radiator hose. I just need all the rest. Mazdatrix seens to spell them out so that should be a no brainer. I did notice that the hoses going into the plenum are no longer available. Mine still look new on the outside but have to wait see how bad they are inside. I'm assuming all the clamps are reusable. The water hoses should be the easiest.
Vacuum hoses. Crit you mentioned going behind counter at the zone and getting tubing that does not have a inner liner(?) you can further prompt me on that. Nothing but the best for my dog...er goat...er rx7!!
now the fun part. Taking all that overhead intake plenum etc off I'm assuming I'm going to need a few new gaskets.can you prompt me on which ones? Also I'd think I want to correct the pulsation dampener to ... landers sells some sort of special banjo nut that's supposed to be the ticket. Thoughts?
I like the idea of brand new injectors. I'm waiting for andys autosports to open so I can verify that they do have them and then I need to hear opinions on what brand to buy. 680 cc seems to be the size.. correct?
is there anything I'm missing on or near the fuel rail that I should address? I don't want to miss a thing.
as for fuel lines that too should be a no brainer one at a time. Assuming all clamps reusable...fuel filter was replaced a few years ago but do a new one anyway?? I don't know the age or condition of fuel pump.. replace??
my brain just froze again... getting old ain't for pussies.
, that's just plain funny!!
