You damn Conservatives are confronted with the smallest iota of change and you go belly up and bonkers.

The original system was created more than 5 years ago, when SA's and FB's were a dime a dozen and at least that many showed up at each OGTA meeting.

Times are changing Dudes, and you know what happened to the Dinosaurs.

So, without any credible opposition, we now officially have a New 12A Equivalence System!

1 12A (SA or FB) = 3 12A's (3.5 12A's for SA's)
1 FC = 0.75 12A's
1 FD = 2 12A's
1 FE = 0.5 12A's
SkyActiv's = 1.5 12A's
Old Schools = 4 12A's

I know there will be a lot of resistance at first, but with time, this new paradigm promises to increase the number of registered 12A's and other Old School rotaries on the highways and bring back the days when OGTA meetings had more FB's than FE's.

I even have good information that a proper 12A rating system will encourage the remanufacture and sale of brand new 12A rotary housings.

You'll see.

 

So how do we compare early meets to later meets using the inflated scoring system?

Will we have new "records" set in the coming year just because of the inflation of the numbers?

Do we need to crawl back thru old scores and readjust them for the present system?

 

"So how do we compare early meets to later meets using the inflated scoring system?"

Easy. The Early Meets were Historic, kind of like the Congressional Representatives from the first 13 colonies sitting down and hammering out the Bill of Rights.
Later meets are different, kind of like going to McDonald's or Walmart.
There's no comparison, or reason to compare.


"Will we have new "records" set in the coming year just because of the inflation of the numbers?"

Yes of course. What fun would it be if there weren't records to break? Inflation in currency, salaries and sports is just a way of life.
For OGTA to deny this is to invite obsolescence.


"Do we need to crawl back thru old scores and readjust them for the present system?"

Nope. It's much easier than that. Just go back to page 1 of this thread and page through the pictures, videos and posts. They tell the whole story.

 

I just can't go along with this. Every time I see this combination of letters "SkyActiv" I read hybrid. The primary reason I drive the RX-7 is to provide a carbon offset for all those F'ing Priuses (Prii?). I'll admit that when I drive the FB to work everyone is staring at me wishing they could be me. But, I drive the car so all those liberals can feel good about driving their hybrids. If it weren't for me making the ultimate sacrifice there would be no reason for them to drive those abominations. Then were would be?

Now if we were talking about subtacting points for SkyActiv's, I might be able to get on board.

 

Mike, SkyActiv is not a Hybrid.

It's a pure fuel system, 87 octane with a 12/1 compression ratio to kick it in the ***.

And really slick bearings and Flipper aerodynamics to complete the deal.

Flipper has been averaging just over 39 mpg and he handles better than the Silver One.

Go figure.

It's the future Mike. If they adapt the 12A to SkyActiv, we'll be fine.

That's not to say there's no role for Conservatives in the future Mike. Cough cough.

 

For boingers, I would say that their 12A equivalent is the square root of the number of cylinders that they have - as a negative.

That way they are measured in imaginary 12As.

Car just bogged on me the other day, so another fun weekend. Rat's nest tubing all replaced, air filter changed (and disturbingly had HOLES through it in some spots).

New symptom after rat's nest redone was an immediate idle at a stop of 1500 that kicks down to 1200. So the rat's nest was part of the issue but not part of the solution other than banging my knuckles around.

When I replaced the old BR8EQ14s, Trailings were white, Leading 1 was ashen/fouled and Leading 2 was fouled. First plug replace so.. dunno what I inherited there. (Cleaned the old plugs for backups/testing/Decarbonizing if needed).

Finally got a straight answer about how to run the temp gauge, so intending to do that this weekend.... the white plugs have me slightly worried on overheating. New thermostat (195 for winter) to go in.

Will take it for a run this weekend and see what happens. Might just need a good blowout on the highway and some carb tuning.

Fun, fun, fun! :-)

 

Dude, did you check under those rear storage bins for rust yet?

If you had holes in the air filter you could have more serious problems.

Also, remove the AC, it's just a pain in the ***.

Leading II fouled probably means the apex seals are seeing their last days, but the good news is those days could be 20-30,000 miles.

12A's never die.

 

Had to do some wiring repairs to the duece today. The ISIS system needs to go in soon!

 

 

Hey all. So this is a stock 12A, Nikki, rats nest. 83 GSL. I'd have posted this in a tech specific forum on 1st gen but apparently someone thinks that no one would ever have any questions on first gens ever again.

So. The problem.

I'd said that I was having a high idle issue and that really hasn't changed; I have fiddled with the Nikki to no real effect. I've come as close to baseline with the Nikki as I can by turning the idle down to hunt then moving back a 1/4 turn. Theoretically, this has the Nikki where it's supposed to be for now.

The high idle issue is: 1100-1200 RPM when warm, after driving and stopping (red light/stop sign) sometimes the idle would go to 1500 - then kick down to 1100-1200.

I replaced all vacuum tubing on the rats nest.

This changed the high idle issue so that instead of going to 1500 at a stop and then bumping down, it sits there with the clutch depressed. This comes with a rattle from the engine compartment that could be where the skid plate is missing a nut.

I changed out the spark plugs. Most were white, L2 was fouled.

Drove again today, same symptoms but I was able to get the idle to kick down by letting the clutch go and putting load on the engine. It does this consistently so I suspect I have a bad valve somewhere but I'm uncertain which one.

Thoughts, experience, etc, are welcome.

Reading up on it more tonight, though searching the forums for this is at best sucky and searching the web is full of so much yet so little... :-) References also welcome (I have all the FSM/TSB/etc for my model, I think).

 

This looks like the Rotary withdrawal we warned Mr. 2-Year-Project about

 

Taran, just 3 options for high idle on a stock Nikki.

1) Adjust the throttel speed screw on the carb. If that doesn't do it,

2) If you still have the AC, is the AC high idle vacumm actuator keeping the throttle up?

3) vacuum leak some place. Try spraying carb cleaner around and listend for the idle to change.

 

Hey strangers, I'm slowly getting my car ready for an event next month and have two unplugged pieces of my carb that I don't know what they are, I figured you all may know, both of these are on the driver side of the carb:




I believe the smaller one is the shutter valve?

 

top pic is shutter or decel valve bottom pic looks like bowl vent

 

Cool thanks, I guess both just need to be plugged and not actually connected anywhere?

 

dont plug the bowl vent unless you like a carb that vapor locks all the time.shutter valve can be plugged but make shure the valve is open or you will starve the rear rotor

 

Yup. Will be doing 1 today since I replaced all the vacuum hoses in the rats nest and found no leaks in the old ones (after I couldn't find a vacuum leak).

Presently have the shutter valve blocked off for now to isolate it from the circuit; driveable (though stutters on decel with it off which likely means it's still good).

AC high idle vacuum actuator seems to be working properly but will look at it more deeply in oh.... 20 minutes.

Time to crawl under the car. I love Sundays.

 

That's the shutter valve, I became intimate with it yesterday.

I'd suggest leaving it unblocked if it's working. If it's not working, you'll feel vacuum through the air cleaner assembly connection (Reference: 81-85 12A Shutter Valve ), a honking sound, etc. I wasn't hearing the symptoms and I felt no vacuum in the air cleaner yesterday but I blocked it off yesterday on mine to see if it was a part of my problem.

It wasn't.

The shutter valve, as you'll find digging around with many posts by Ray, might help with mileage though the value is dubious. And since it does go bad and it costs $100+ to get the full assembly (Mazdatrix is cheaper than eBay at this time, I checked yesterday) it may not be worth replacing to you. Still, if it's working... let it work. That's my two cents.

 

My Brake Booster developed a massive vacuum leak when the brakes are applied.

 

John, you don't need a booster, just work out those legs. I have the same issue with my "modified" FB booster in my SA, and have been running boosterless for about a year due to it. That equates to probably less than 50 miles, but still

 

Ray, giving points to a SkyActive only because you have one takes the fun out of it. If you want points, drive a rotary. That's the whole point. I'm done with it.

John, I couldn't find a good booster for the REPU and took it to NAPA. They shipped it off to Cardone for $115 and they broke it down and replaced everything. They're all Bendix-licensed units, so I'm thinking they have an assortment of fittings and diaphragms that will fit 'em all.

 

cheaper than the place in ATL, they wanted 175. I'll check with NAPA Tuesday Crit

 

Good point

I've been trying to find a decent local driveshaft and after talking to a guy about half an hour away, I might just pick up another FC this week. Rather than spending $100 on a driveshaft, $400 for a complete car sounds more appetizing!

So maybe I'll buy my 8th RX7 this week. An S5 FC at that, too...

 

Hi my name is Brett and im a rotorholic