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Old guys with 12As club meeting

Old Apr 10, 2010 | 08:42 PM
  #10201  
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So I have a tach question again. I removed the stock coils and attached the trailing Y/G wire to the negative side of the leading coil( FC coil) I have a tach reading but it is really wonky. I mean like shooting to 8K straight off the stop light. Did I use the wrong wire? Should I swap it to the POS side of the coil and see what happens? To late to work on it now.

It runs great, just has a useless tach
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:18 PM
  #10202  
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That is weird. The FC coil should be acting the same as any coil. It always has 12V and the negative side is triggered when the magnetic pickup in the dizzy goes to closed. Are you using the coil with or without out all the extra crap in the base?

-billy
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:19 PM
  #10203  
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Originally Posted by cletus
How much do you charge?
If you're serious, I could totally give you a hand. I'm getting halfway decent at this stuff!

Originally Posted by Acesanugal
Oh yeah, Autotragic... my bad lol
No, 4 door FWD family sedan that I would make fun of anyone doing pulls in if I were driving the RX7. You don't buy a Maxima for that, you but a Porsche

Originally Posted by ray green
I just have to share this Datsun commercial with y'all cause I know how you dudes are into **** and everything. This would be **** up, then **** down, Bob's your uncle:
Haha, that's great. Does Kathy still look on this thread?

I got some progress done on the FC. The new motor should drop in tomorrow, and once I get another set of oil cooler lines and possibly swap rear ends, it'll be on the road again.







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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:33 PM
  #10204  
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Originally Posted by bwaits_
That is weird. The FC coil should be acting the same as any coil. It always has 12V and the negative side is triggered when the magnetic pickup in the dizzy goes to closed. Are you using the coil with or without out all the extra crap in the base?

-billy
Not sure, I got it from Sam( Bad83), so I am not sure what he has/had done to it. Can I tell by # of wires coming from the base etc..?
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 09:36 PM
  #10205  
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Ray- Some lucky puppet master got the call of his life when they shot that commercial. Workin the strings like a master
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 10:21 PM
  #10206  
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I just remembered, I've got a flywheel question. I bought a socket to fit the flywheel nut and make a thing to brace it against the garage floor to break the old flywheel nut loose. I had to use a ratchet because I didn't have a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter... When I put the flywheel on the new motor, I braced it up the same way, put a 2-ft cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and got it as tight as I could.

I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...
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Old Apr 10, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #10207  
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Originally Posted by ray green
Holly, the 0.75 for the PrePro sound reasonable, although it does look like just another FC out in the parking lot. Can Kristy put some stickers on their or something?.
What should these stickers say???
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 07:10 AM
  #10208  
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Originally Posted by BigIslandSevens
Not sure, I got it from Sam( Bad83), so I am not sure what he has/had done to it. Can I tell by # of wires coming from the base etc..?
Are you connecting the dizzy wires directly to the circled studs? You should remove the wires running down to the base (red x in image)

-billy
Attached Thumbnails Old guys with 12As club meeting-fc_coil_wires_cut.jpg  
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 08:46 AM
  #10209  
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Hey Billy, Do yo think we're robot clean? Does this face look almost mean?
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:09 AM
  #10210  
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Kevin, did you make it to ATL yet?
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 12:51 PM
  #10211  
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Just got back from the IA meet downtown, Not too many rotarys were there




















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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 01:08 PM
  #10212  
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 02:33 PM
  #10213  
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Thanks for posting Alex, looks interesting!
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 04:24 PM
  #10214  
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Originally Posted by bwaits_
Are you connecting the dizzy wires directly to the circled studs? You should remove the wires running down to the base (red x in image)

-billy
Nope, It still has all the wires running thru the base. I am snipping them now and rewiring them directly to the studs. We will see if that makes a difference.

I also notice that my oil pressure and fuel gauges are waaay under reading. It has to be a related issue with having taken out the stock coils. The were providing something I am now missing. My guess is a ground somewhere. I will put it back to how it was and see if it corrects itself if all else fails.

Thanks for the help Billy.

Dave
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 05:26 PM
  #10215  
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Crit, thought you would be happy to know the bucket is back.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 07:27 PM
  #10216  
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Originally Posted by BigIslandSevens
I also notice that my oil pressure and fuel gauges are waaay under reading. It has to be a related issue with having taken out the stock coils. The were providing something I am now missing.
Yep those extra wires are a ballast resistor or something - Trash them and the tach may work better.

As far as the other stuff, it should not be from removing the coils. They are simply 12V when ignition hot (black wire, white stripe) and then pos on coil to pos on dizzy, neg on coil to neg on dizzy (leading, or trailing). Yellow with a green stripe for tach sig.

-billy
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 07:28 PM
  #10217  
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Originally Posted by yayo420
Hey Billy, Do yo think we're robot clean? Does this face look almost mean?
What????
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 07:42 PM
  #10218  
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OK Here is what I have hookep up. Using your picture as a reference:

On the left post I have the Black/White wire that went to stock leading coil +
On the right post I have both the Y/G and Y/b wires..

Correct? Do I need to do anything with the power wire for the stock trailing or just cap it off?

I have confused myself completely. After clipping the wires and trying again as listed above the tach is still wonky.

The fuel and Oil pressure gauges I think I may have "hit" and knocked out of calibration. I had the clear cover off messing with the speedo and the OP gauge needle seems to be bent
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 08:03 PM
  #10219  
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Old Guy wins Masters, has an FB in his garage:



Here's some tapes on the 2GDFI wiring:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwKlbX0DSRk

Dave, CHECK YOUR CHASIS GROUND, THAT THING MAKES EVERYTHING UNDERREAD WHEN IT'S GETTING SQUIRRELY.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 08:55 PM
  #10220  
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That is how I had and currently have the wires hooked up. I have the tach signal( Y/G) attached to the NEG side with the Leading coil trigger wire( Y/B) as well. Since I am not running trailing plugs. Any way the trailing ignitor could have went bad? Or do they just go out completely.

Yeah the ground is always my most likely suspect as well. Only I didn't touch it or have any issue prior to removing the stock coils and pulling the gauges out. I FUBAR'd something along the way. Full tank of fuel reads at 3/4 on the gauge. OP gauge when off is all the way to the far left hitting the bezel.

Meh, We'll figure it out sometime. It runs awsome.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #10221  
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Originally Posted by BrettLinton7
I just remembered, I've got a flywheel question. I bought a socket to fit the flywheel nut and make a thing to brace it against the garage floor to break the old flywheel nut loose. I had to use a ratchet because I didn't have a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter... When I put the flywheel on the new motor, I braced it up the same way, put a 2-ft cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and got it as tight as I could.

I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...


Your math is right on, but only if the cheater bar is level. You could even try putting a barbell over your toes, or have a big lunch.
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 09:02 PM
  #10222  
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Originally Posted by lx_machado
Just got back from the IA meet downtown, Not too many rotarys were there
There must have been a caravan or something coming from my side of town. There were atleast 15 Honda's (many like the '92 my grandmother drives...) bouncing down 400 on their cut springs They sound like fun, regardless- I want to get into more meets around here.

Update on the FC:

New motor is in, bolted up to transmission, A/C compressor and bracket bolted up, in the process of piecing the newer S5 intake together. 2 more days working on it and $100 or so in parts and it should be running!
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #10223  
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Originally Posted by Crit
Your math is right on, but only if the cheater bar is level. You could even try putting a barbell over your toes, or have a big lunch.
Thank you, that makes me feel a lot better about it. I looked around and found a web page answering something similar to my question, so I put the clutch and pressure plate on today and dropped the motor in.

Pictures:





Recognize the OMP block-off plate, Crit?
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:28 PM
  #10224  
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Originally Posted by bwaits_
What????
We are 138, listen to it
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Old Apr 11, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #10225  
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Originally Posted by ROTORX7Holly
Kevin, did you make it to ATL yet?

Yeah, I wanted to catch up w/ you guys but I had a hard time even fining time to see all my folks down here, We are definately moving back down, probably in october when our lease is up
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