Old guys with 12As club meeting
So I have a tach question again. I removed the stock coils and attached the trailing Y/G wire to the negative side of the leading coil( FC coil) I have a tach reading but it is really wonky. I mean like shooting to 8K straight off the stop light. Did I use the wrong wire? Should I swap it to the POS side of the coil and see what happens? To late to work on it now.
It runs great, just has a useless tach
It runs great, just has a useless tach
That is weird. The FC coil should be acting the same as any coil. It always has 12V and the negative side is triggered when the magnetic pickup in the dizzy goes to closed. Are you using the coil with or without out all the extra crap in the base?
-billy
-billy
If you're serious, I could totally give you a hand. I'm getting halfway decent at this stuff!
No, 4 door FWD family sedan that I would make fun of anyone doing pulls in if I were driving the RX7. You don't buy a Maxima for that, you but a Porsche
Haha, that's great. Does Kathy still look on this thread? 
I got some progress done on the FC. The new motor should drop in tomorrow, and once I get another set of oil cooler lines and possibly swap rear ends, it'll be on the road again.



No, 4 door FWD family sedan that I would make fun of anyone doing pulls in if I were driving the RX7. You don't buy a Maxima for that, you but a Porsche


I got some progress done on the FC. The new motor should drop in tomorrow, and once I get another set of oil cooler lines and possibly swap rear ends, it'll be on the road again.



Not sure, I got it from Sam( Bad83), so I am not sure what he has/had done to it. Can I tell by # of wires coming from the base etc..?
I just remembered, I've got a flywheel question. I bought a socket to fit the flywheel nut and make a thing to brace it against the garage floor to break the old flywheel nut loose. I had to use a ratchet because I didn't have a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter... When I put the flywheel on the new motor, I braced it up the same way, put a 2-ft cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and got it as tight as I could.
I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...
I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...
-billy
I also notice that my oil pressure and fuel gauges are waaay under reading. It has to be a related issue with having taken out the stock coils. The were providing something I am now missing. My guess is a ground somewhere. I will put it back to how it was and see if it corrects itself if all else fails.
Thanks for the help Billy.
Dave
As far as the other stuff, it should not be from removing the coils. They are simply 12V when ignition hot (black wire, white stripe) and then pos on coil to pos on dizzy, neg on coil to neg on dizzy (leading, or trailing). Yellow with a green stripe for tach sig.
-billy
OK Here is what I have hookep up. Using your picture as a reference:
On the left post I have the Black/White wire that went to stock leading coil +
On the right post I have both the Y/G and Y/b wires..
Correct? Do I need to do anything with the power wire for the stock trailing or just cap it off?
I have confused myself completely. After clipping the wires and trying again as listed above the tach is still wonky.
The fuel and Oil pressure gauges I think I may have "hit" and knocked out of calibration. I had the clear cover off messing with the speedo and the OP gauge needle seems to be bent
On the left post I have the Black/White wire that went to stock leading coil +
On the right post I have both the Y/G and Y/b wires..
Correct? Do I need to do anything with the power wire for the stock trailing or just cap it off?
I have confused myself completely. After clipping the wires and trying again as listed above the tach is still wonky.
The fuel and Oil pressure gauges I think I may have "hit" and knocked out of calibration. I had the clear cover off messing with the speedo and the OP gauge needle seems to be bent
Old Guy wins Masters, has an FB in his garage:

Here's some tapes on the 2GDFI wiring:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwKlbX0DSRk
Dave, CHECK YOUR CHASIS GROUND, THAT THING MAKES EVERYTHING UNDERREAD WHEN IT'S GETTING SQUIRRELY.

Here's some tapes on the 2GDFI wiring:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3Va3xwWzVQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kwKlbX0DSRk
Dave, CHECK YOUR CHASIS GROUND, THAT THING MAKES EVERYTHING UNDERREAD WHEN IT'S GETTING SQUIRRELY.
That is how I had and currently have the wires hooked up. I have the tach signal( Y/G) attached to the NEG side with the Leading coil trigger wire( Y/B) as well. Since I am not running trailing plugs. Any way the trailing ignitor could have went bad? Or do they just go out completely.
Yeah the ground is always my most likely suspect as well. Only I didn't touch it or have any issue prior to removing the stock coils and pulling the gauges out. I FUBAR'd something along the way. Full tank of fuel reads at 3/4 on the gauge. OP gauge when off is all the way to the far left hitting the bezel.
Meh, We'll figure it out sometime. It runs awsome.
Yeah the ground is always my most likely suspect as well. Only I didn't touch it or have any issue prior to removing the stock coils and pulling the gauges out. I FUBAR'd something along the way. Full tank of fuel reads at 3/4 on the gauge. OP gauge when off is all the way to the far left hitting the bezel.
Meh, We'll figure it out sometime. It runs awsome.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 3,438
Likes: 6
From: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
I just remembered, I've got a flywheel question. I bought a socket to fit the flywheel nut and make a thing to brace it against the garage floor to break the old flywheel nut loose. I had to use a ratchet because I didn't have a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter... When I put the flywheel on the new motor, I braced it up the same way, put a 2-ft cheater bar on the end of the ratchet, and got it as tight as I could.
I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...
I'm guessing that since torque is measured in ft/lbs, would that 2 feet and my 170 lbs standing on the end of that bar to tighten it make the torque in the flywheel nut 340 ft lbs? Or am I thinking wrong? I say 170 lbs because after tightening the nut, I could stand on the end of the cheater bar on the ratchet handle and it would hold my body weight up. I couldn't find a 1/2" to 3/4" adapter where I got the socket, that's why I'm not using an impact...
Your math is right on, but only if the cheater bar is level. You could even try putting a barbell over your toes, or have a big lunch.
They sound like fun, regardless- I want to get into more meets around here.Update on the FC:
New motor is in, bolted up to transmission, A/C compressor and bracket bolted up, in the process of piecing the newer S5 intake together. 2 more days working on it and $100 or so in parts and it should be running!
Originally Posted by Crit
Your math is right on, but only if the cheater bar is level. You could even try putting a barbell over your toes, or have a big lunch.
Pictures:


Recognize the OMP block-off plate, Crit?
















