Well, strength shouldn't be a problem I can add more layers on top were it maybe a problem anyway if you where to crack in you can always patch it. But I'd say you would have five or six layers on top then body filler to smooth it some and then carpet would cushion anything.. I've been told 7 layers is recommended but I'm not haven't problems with my five. Of course I have a good amount of body filler on it too.

 

Coooody! You break stuff, kid. Gimme a call if you want help fixing that this week.

 

Sheesh cody, make sure that **** is more secure next time....

And good luck getting the ac out with the engine still in the car, I couldnt get it out of mine when I indid everything, and had to wait till the engine came out >.<

 

u can get it out just start breaking and twisting and yanking . and u should be able to drop your rad down with out draining your coolant to get the condesor out

 

thats not it, there are two rather long studs that will not let the compresser clear, as you need the entire bracket off to get to the 4 bolts holding the compressor unit on the backside of the bracket closest TO the block. So yes, getting it off requires having alot more wiggle room than you think, since those 4 bolts are at least 4 inches and at most 6 inches long.

 

oh yeah i forgot about those 2 they are a pain....im pretty sure that u cant pull them out but u can lossen then enough to jiggle the compressor off if u cut the lines going to it.

but i could be wrong

 

the lines are a cake walk, but removal is no fun if you have powersteering in the way as well. And it seems my pedestal should be here sooner than expected as well.

 

Eh? I had no trouble pulling the A/C out of both the FC and the FB. Never fooled with the evaporator because everything was pretty much rusted in place.

 

Oh, and yeti... Lemme see how a mdf box is going to work out, Might still use fiberglass for the bottom part, but for the sub mounting and just overall up top to smooth edges and get up to the interior trim and all that.

 

my finger is broken from all the spray painting...so far iv gone through about 9 cans of yellow and im not even close to being done

 

lol thats why I told you to get a trigger handle...at least then you could pad the trigger mechanism to save your finger.

 

i dont remember u saying get a trigger handle ....... i wouldnt of gotten one anyway .. so far iv gone through 12 cans of yellow and 9 cans of primar and i still need atleast another 6 cans of yellow if not more


but she is becoming yellow

 

not bad, though may I ask why you went with rustoleum? Cuz after the primer coats using the 'traditional' rattle can nozzle, then going to the 'wide' spray pattern of the krylon top coat...i was spoiled. I covered more area faster and in a more 'proffessional' manner. i say this cuz I can easily spot most of your vertical paint lines, and spraying should really be done side to side. Think "Karate Kid".... side *hand goes left* side *hand goes right* side *hand goes left* side *hand goes right* breath in, breath out.... well breathing is best done thru a respirator...else you end up with paint nose and fumigating brain cells.

 

idk most cheap paint jobs people use rustoleum like on roll on paint jobs. so i figured it couldnt hurt, and i had no idea the krylon had a wider spray nozle.

and u can see all kind of lines and everything up close that is actually a pretty good pic that dosent show lots of stuff. like slight color variations. i think im done painting for awhile im gonna let it dry for today and then wet sand it because it has alot of imperfections, little bugs, little bumps and all kinds of stuff.. then i will continue painting it more next week prolly . my engine stuff will be here soon and that is my main priority, getting the motor rebuilt and getting ready for the autox


the paint isint perfect but it is alot better then the stock paint job that was peeling and chiping off.

and cody i bet u need a fuel pump for your t2 swap hu>? i forgot that i have a fd pump

 

and ill prolly start getting the door jams and rear hatch jam next week too

 

how bad would i get booed if i rolled up to mazda fest in a honda?

 

OMFG the Cheese has come back as a HONDA! Yeah man... the vertical spray nozzles are key. You can come really close to the pattern and consistency of a gun, although all spray cans have issues with cutting out and such. Still, it's the best you're gonna get with aero. Damn that thing is yellow. Sure you don't want a nice gunmetal or neon pink?

 

i thought about getting that neon orange stuff they have for road signs and stuff

 

derek you also said you had to pull the motor up to get the power steering rack out..... yea jimmy ill be hitting u up soon got my suspension yesterday gonna be putting it on today after work. anybody know of any good camber links for the back? the ones where the lat link is.

ive got a pump for it its an fd but dunno if i wanna do all that rewiring. i need help with the fuel cut switch i bought it and a relay but need help with routing it and all so anybody who wants to help with that.......anybody know how to set timing?

 

umm well with the fd pump u dont have to rewire anything theres 2 wires that u disconect from the old one and then u reconect the same wires for the fd pump.. u have a n/a so u dont have the problems of a t2.

and why do u have a relay for the fuel cut switch? all u gotta do is splice into a wire under your dash.

and setting timing is easy if u have the light. look up the setting in the fsm

 

i hate to go off topic here but i have a question. has anybody here powdercoated there rims before, like by there self? if so how hard is it and where can i get the stuff to do it? im thinking about doing my rims on the avenger black to match the car. another thing, i have no spare rims to put on the car, and i really dont wanna take the tires off the rims, so would i be able to just tae the rims up and do it one by one? if so how long does it usually take to dry? damn thats a lot of questions.

 

i dont think u can leave the tires on because even when u powdercoat at home u have to back it in a oven.

if u want to leave the tires on the best thing would be to just paint them.

 

anyone ever use a wagner home painter for painting a car? im thinking about doing that once i get this coat all sanded and smoothed out.

 

well to be fair i had yet to pull my power rack when i said it. But now that I have pulled a power rack i can say with certainty that 'lifting' the engine a few inches would give you MORE clearance to get the cooling lines and **** clear from breaking anything...since i broke a lil senser connection on the bottom of the radiator.

And I did try multiple times to remove the AC out of my na prior to pulling the first engine, I can even walk outside, pull open a tarp and snap some pics of how close it would be to try and remove just the compressor from the bracket, provided you were going to try and keep the PS.

 

Wow this is a lot of stuff, I don't even know where to begin. So let's see... A-Cups, I have to agree with Carmen, I don't think baking in an oven is going to be good for your tires. Hellbent should know a thing or two about powder coating, he could tell you more.

I am licensed to shoot to kill anyone who tries to paint a car bright orange. Just throwing that out there.

My brakes keep going out on the Cheeto. Is that bad?