oh yea and thats a d15 valve cover which leads me to believe you have a d15y7 head and block not a d16z6 head

 

wtf.....well i got a d15b8 block for sure im gonna go look at the head code

 

theres no code on the head

 

Woo, talked to Billy over at Re-Speed about my late pedestal adapter. Apparently through several logistical delays my part, as well as everyone else that ordered a pedestal adapter during this time, is getting complimentary powdercoating and should hopefully be shipped out wednesday, and with luck I can do my LONG overdue oilchange the day/night before auto-cross so I have time get things straightned out, like rerouting the amp wiring out towards the spare tire area, and getting 'almost' wiring ready for a new sub box install in the next few weeks.

 

Let me know sometime in advance if I'm doing it so I can get the mat online to hopefully save money

 

Dont worry, ill let ya know, I still need to plan it out and see how wiring is going to be. My only real concern is strength, since I tend to use the entire hatch area some days for things like wheels/rims, parts, duffel bags, tools, and other assorted things, though If one could make a better manual window interior triangle with provision for a tweeter I would most definitely use it.

 

hey derrick how many cans of paint did it take to paint your car?

 

to paint my FC it took me 8 cans of krylon prymer, 8 cans of krylon semi-flat/satin black, 1 coarse/medium grit sanding sponge, 1 medium/fine sanding sponge, 1-2 rolls of the wide blue painters tape, 1 spray paint trigger/handle(so you dont wear out a finger and have better control over the spray),and 1 full sunday newspaper spread to cover all of my glass. Though for the civic I would add at least 2-3 more cans of each since you have alot more surface area to cover than I did. And thats 2 coats of primer, wetsanded between coats, and 2 coats of the black no sanding as of yet.

 

k thanks im stating painting i picked up 2 cans of rustoleum primer and 6 cans of rustoleum paint. it no where near enough since im using a light color and my car was black to start with ..

how did u combat the little friggen black bugs that love to fly into the wet paint? or did u not have this problem?.

i did a light coat of primer and 2 coats of the color but i didnt sand i was trying to see if it would look good. but i really need to sand i got little bumps all over. i dont want it to be a proffesional job but i want it to look decent .. should i use some clear coat as well?

 

well if you do any major color changes, I.E. black to white, you need at least two coats of primer, the first coat make the black lighter, and the second will make it all but gone. And with multiple coats of primer you can work out the factory orange peel for the most part. I dunno how the rustoleum works as far as set times, but the krylon was 'sandable' after 15 minutes, and almost fully dried after an hour. As for the lil bugs during paint...I sprayed the entire car inside a closed garage ( yea yea i forgot to vent it so sue me ). And as for color, 2-3 coats minimum and you should wetsand between coats to keep the bumps to a minimum. Since I really didnt feel it was nescessary to keep bumps out of mine I opted to NOT wetsand my color coats, since its only going to get nicked and scratched often and just hit with another shot of the can again later.

If you intend on making the paint last then yes, get some clear and use at least 2 coats of it as well.

 

im using yellow, and i prolly wont clear coat ill just leave it alone to re paint when it gets dinged and scratched

 

yea.....black to yellow....you need at least 2 good coats of primer for that, since yellow is just one of those color's that BLOWS to paint with. Ive tried to paint model cars with yellow, using acrylic enamel, spray, and just plain testers gloss, and never would it stay like a red/black/blue paint color. same with white, the pigment is just wierd I guess. But since you are going with a yellow, primer it better then use probably 3 coats to best bring the color out

 

Uh oh, someone's talking about painting cars, time for ol' LizFC to weigh in...

Don't skimp on the primer. The more you coat and sand, the smoother your finish will be. If you go too thin, you'll end up seeing sanding scratches and all else after you're done. Also, wetsanding is key if you want it to look good and glossy. What I like to do is run a cotton-terry cloth over the primer and base coats. It may feel smooth to the touch but if it pulls out any threads, then it needs more wetsanding. Go to something really fine like 1500 or 2000. And clearcoat that bitch! It'll look a looot nicer, and it will stay nice longer than a week. Aerosol paints are really weak stuff. You'll start to see damage a lot sooner without clearcoat. Not even the clearcoat holds up to much abuse though. Lay that stuff on wet so you can see a nice reflection as it lays. The smoother your basecoat is, the easier it will be to get a nice smooth coat over the surface. Just be careful not to let it run.

I know you're not going for show quality by any means, but if you're going to go through the effort, it might as well look decent and last a little while, ya know? What parts are you painting? I'm guessing the parts that don't need the bodywork. I can help you rattle it as well if you want, as long as you can get it over here.

Oh, and for the bugs... you can sand 'em out or what I like to do is use a scotch brite pad. Make sure you clean the bug guts off afterward.

 

yeah im painting everything but that bad quarter panel the rest is straight

im gonna have to build some kind of tent to paint in i cant keep the knats from getting into the paint. it looks nice though but all i got is 150 sand paper i need to get some 1000 grit.

and yes any help will be good but it will be pretty much painted by the autox. i got no job and bored all day it will give me somthing to do

 

I was hoping you would chime in Liz. But looks like youve got a handle on things now man.

Just got an email from the guy im getting the CF dash pod from, part is undergoing its last stages of clearcoat and will be shipped out by friday. Sad thing is I wont have it for auto-cross, good thing is, that gives me unrushed time to route wires and such through the firewall properly and to install the gauges cleanly as well as tidy up inside for a future meet somewheres.

 

Damn Derrick, you know that dash is going to be weighing you down during the autocross. We'll try to take that into account.

I need to find a better way to tie down my battery.

 

hey liz should i bring a sun dial to this autox????hahaha just kiding

 

lol, as it is im more than likely going to unbolt the passenger seat AT the event before inspection and run with just me inside, unless were allowed to have a passenger HOLDING a camera inside? Or would removing the passenger seat bump me out of C street prepared and put me into the same class as jeremy?

 

Hmm... I think that would bump you a class, then again they may not be that picky. You're definitely not allowed to have a passenger holding a camera, I know that. Has to be a sturdy mount. Maybe you should build one?

Sun dials only work if there's sun... I guess we'll see how that goes. Whoa... deja vu... how many times have I said that before?

 

wholly crap i just did a compression calcualtion with my motor setup and im at 12:1 comp.. thats crazy


hey anyone know what class i should be in? iv got lowering springs, competition struts,front caster adjustment, ummm racing seats, full header back exhaust no cats, cold air intake,vtec head on my motor so more or less a motor swap,and thats about it i think but possibly more.

what class would this be for a honda? and what is the website to the autox reg, again?

 

ETRSCCA.org - solo II section. No idea what class that would be... maybe street mod? Or street tire mod.

 

well that would put you into SM or SM2.

But would a tripod that was say, strapped down, with a digi cam rolling count for solid rigging? if not ill just have to settle for bringing my brother out to get the runs on the mavica that my grandfather had.

But I guess ill just ask em at tech if my seat removal would pull me out of CSP and into something else, but If I remember right there was a CSP BMW with a 4point cage in it as well....or else i was seeing things.

wait....what do you mean calculated 12:1 compression? Did you suddenly overbore the block and order new domed pistons or something? Im no expert on compression calculations, but I know the difference between a series 4 rotor and series 5 rotor's compression numbers have to do with the size of the 'dip' in the face of each rotor, and if i remember right the S5's have a smaller 'dip' than the S4's.

 

well its 12:1 on a honda. and i dont have the stock head on mine i have a head from a vtec motor and it bumps my comp ratio and im running a thiner head gasket which also bumps my comp ratio

and i want to register so i guess ill do sm and when i get there ill ask and make sure.

i was gonna get high comp pistons too but that would be insane like 14:1 ratio or somthing .. i was gonna retard my timing all the way then when i wanted to go all out at like autox run race fuel and advance my timing......but i decided to be practical

 

how do i get to run in nsm?

 

yea i got to work this morning after putting in my 200 dollar battery last night and i got alittle sideways the plate broke the rest of the way and the battery flew into the ac belt slicing up the posi cable and ripping my fan and foglight wires....man i love it time to get some of jimmys fiberglass resin and try to fix it i suppse oh yea and take off the damn ac i dont even use!!!!!!!!!!