East Tennessee Rotary Club
yeah, I guess that does help a bit. But what is this "cruising" you speak of?
One of these days ill have all the sound deadening stuff put back somewhere, or at least block off the spare tire well, where the bulk of my noise comes from.
One of these days ill have all the sound deadening stuff put back somewhere, or at least block off the spare tire well, where the bulk of my noise comes from.
SAFC-II=best $120 investment ive ever made. Its aleady more than paid for itself in fuel costs. Coupled with new plugs and regular changing of my O2 sensor (like every 6 months) and somewhat careful adjustments to idle(though none while its got this vac leak), add up to M P G and power.
You shouldn't have no problem mounting the subs there and angling them anyway you want to. keeping it stock looking and hiding yeah you may run into a sleight problem but I don't know we'll have to see.
well mounting them directly behind the seats wont work because of the center brace running along the floor and up a good ways, its just tall enough to not allow the subs to fit while facing the seats and still retaining a 'stock' look.
Well as it is I wont be able to make a pass thru K-town till next auto-cross. So unless you wanted to come out here for me to fiddle with it and give my opinions sure mroe than welcome to, but other than that gotta wait till pellessippi
Eh, ive monkeyed with mine enough to just tune it to get a good idle, meaning the set screw's for the throttle plates, the air mix screw, the tps screw, and then the cas.
Maybe I'm not following you here but my sub is behind the drivers seat.. it's not in the floor board it's where the bins would go for you. and you would have plently of airspace there.. more then me.. but if you wanted to keep the bins.. we could try using the spare tire wheel in the far back and aiming if forward. I honestly don't think it's gonig to make a ton of difference how the sub is aimed as the frequency is lower and it has a wide angle. I don't know exactly what the trunk looks like but another option to keep the weight between the wheels would be maybe right in front of the rear shock towers. building off that. then they would be aimed toward you. I'm sure we can figure something out.
Well red is how I had planned on doing it.. but I think green is doable. Firstly we'll have to see if you speaker will fit. have the magnet hang over the metal brace but not touch by a few inches. and angle it to your likings. Or buy a shallow mount speaker.. and the jury is out on whether those or good or not. I've never heard one. Also I don't remember your speaker size but you should have the airspace for 10s easily and it'll be close for 12s. unless you want to go all curving with it then we can make airspace easily.
My guess is by going green There is already going to be some nice curves.. at least for the outer ring of the speaker I'll have to draw it and scan the possible plans for the angle I think you want.. Which is for the speaker to basically face against the seatback.
The red is the easier choice. You basically lay the glass and then the top would either be mdf or thick plexi.. Fiberglass is weaker in large flat areas.
My guess is by going green There is already going to be some nice curves.. at least for the outer ring of the speaker I'll have to draw it and scan the possible plans for the angle I think you want.. Which is for the speaker to basically face against the seatback.
The red is the easier choice. You basically lay the glass and then the top would either be mdf or thick plexi.. Fiberglass is weaker in large flat areas.
Yeah, prolly go with the red anyway, and use both and MDF base and then a plexi cover to 'seal' the 10" subs. But ive looked and mounting them the green way is rather difficult, theres at least 6-8" of depth to the speaker itself, in addition to the width of the speaker, so the metal bracing would be in the way. But airspace wise there's plenty for alot of things.
Probably do an MDF top with supports and glass the bottom/sides to mold it kinda to the factory plastics. Then I'd just have to remount my amp way back into the tire well which isnt too big of a problem I dont think, just a matter of making sure i have enough power wire for it.
But the red would work best i think, make a plexi top for it so I could in theory make it level with the rest of the hatch and just throw a cover over top of it when i need to haul **** around in the back.
Probably do an MDF top with supports and glass the bottom/sides to mold it kinda to the factory plastics. Then I'd just have to remount my amp way back into the tire well which isnt too big of a problem I dont think, just a matter of making sure i have enough power wire for it.
But the red would work best i think, make a plexi top for it so I could in theory make it level with the rest of the hatch and just throw a cover over top of it when i need to haul **** around in the back.
i cant help u on the injector part, but i bet if u were in a pinch u could soke them in somthing over night to atleast make them a tad better.. and if u had your battery in the back iv got a big o honken semi battery that will start anything, it started mine and my timming and a list of things were mest up
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,910
Likes: 3
From: Maryville, TN
Hey man, watch out for ol' Smokie! I went through Maryville and Townsend to go hiking yesterday and the fuzz was out in FORCE... I saw everything they had pretty much... cruisers, motorcycles, unmarked Crown Vics, the Chargers, unmarked Expeditions, you name it. They even had park rangers running radar traps, which is a first. There were bikes radaring on I40 this morning already. So keep an eye out. I'm not even gonna bother going anywhere, it's just ridiculous.






