Tegheim - Home made 4 Rotor Wolvo project
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2009
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From: Chicago,IL
Like those
I was just wondering why you used splines for the counter weight. stronger than using a key?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 533
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From: Sweden
Media Blasted? That means?
In a stock shaft it's not the key that holds the flywheel only, as a mather of fact the most power goes through the cone-fitting. The key just helps it out.
In my model, there are not place for any cone-attachment, the outer diameter are to small on the rear axle. So then you use splines instead and an M27x1.5 nut to hold it axial.
The spline are very strong, and the type I will use hold for about 1000kW at 10 000rpm before it breaks. At least thats what the program tell me
Hope you understand, or else you ask again
In my model, there are not place for any cone-attachment, the outer diameter are to small on the rear axle. So then you use splines instead and an M27x1.5 nut to hold it axial.
The spline are very strong, and the type I will use hold for about 1000kW at 10 000rpm before it breaks. At least thats what the program tell me
Hope you understand, or else you ask again
"Elusive, not deceptive!”
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 930
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From: Slidell, LA
Media Blasted? That means?
Probably referring to glass bead which can change the surface as compared to plastic media blasting that can take the writing off of a coke can without hurting the surface. Baking soda works well on paint also.
In a stock shaft it's not the key that holds the flywheel only, as a mather of fact the most power goes through the cone-fitting. The key just helps it out.
The key is for alignment only. The counter weight is strategically located for balance, ignition timing also requires a "key".
The torque is carried by the taper only!
In my model, there are not place for any cone-attachment, the outer diameter are to small on the rear axle. So then you use splines instead and an M27x1.5 nut to hold it axial.
The spline are very strong, and the type I will use hold for about 1000kW at 10 000rpm before it breaks. At least thats what the program tell me
Hope you understand, or else you ask again
Probably referring to glass bead which can change the surface as compared to plastic media blasting that can take the writing off of a coke can without hurting the surface. Baking soda works well on paint also.
In a stock shaft it's not the key that holds the flywheel only, as a mather of fact the most power goes through the cone-fitting. The key just helps it out.
The key is for alignment only. The counter weight is strategically located for balance, ignition timing also requires a "key".
The torque is carried by the taper only!
In my model, there are not place for any cone-attachment, the outer diameter are to small on the rear axle. So then you use splines instead and an M27x1.5 nut to hold it axial.
The spline are very strong, and the type I will use hold for about 1000kW at 10 000rpm before it breaks. At least thats what the program tell me
Hope you understand, or else you ask again
Barry
Media blasting (or abrasive blasting) is a general term for sandblasting with any type of material be it glass, sand, etc You might say: sandblästra (maybe?)
My concern is that from the pictures it looks like the irons may have been prepped in using that method. If so, it is crucial that they are cleaned effectively. The small particles get everywhere inside these engines and could destroy all your hard work. Even when they appear clean, there may still be some there.
I have never done this myself, but have read horror stories about the sand getting into the oil and destroying all the bearing surfaces and ruining the engine. With as much as you have invested in this project, I wouldn't take the chance.
If they haven't been blasted, those are some pretty irons. Are they brand new?
My concern is that from the pictures it looks like the irons may have been prepped in using that method. If so, it is crucial that they are cleaned effectively. The small particles get everywhere inside these engines and could destroy all your hard work. Even when they appear clean, there may still be some there.
I have never done this myself, but have read horror stories about the sand getting into the oil and destroying all the bearing surfaces and ruining the engine. With as much as you have invested in this project, I wouldn't take the chance.
If they haven't been blasted, those are some pretty irons. Are they brand new?
Thanks for the post. Really neat to watch the progress you are making.
One question, do you have any concerns with the 90 degree shoulder next to your splines? How will you cut the spline without the tool cutting into the extra adjacent material?
-billy
One question, do you have any concerns with the 90 degree shoulder next to your splines? How will you cut the spline without the tool cutting into the extra adjacent material?
-billy
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 297
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From: Chicago,IL
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 297
Likes: 0
From: Chicago,IL
Those irons are brand new and FYI it's not mine
Here's the tread about it
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/another-4-rotor-build-788554/
Here's the tread about it
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-performance-77/another-4-rotor-build-788554/
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 533
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From: Sweden
Thank you, we meant the same about the key in flywheel But you learned me some new words also
About Media Blast, I thought you meant that someone have posted som pics that weren't aloud to be posted Media such as Internet, Paper and Television
Language-fail again for me!
As someone already said, these aren't mine irons. I promise I will be very carefull with how I mount and clean my 4rotor
If you mean the shoulder on the 4th rotor-beraing-assembly, so arent they on place when I cut the splines. Actually the splines will go past in under for some mm. Just enough so the counterweight will run smooth all way against the assembly. Then the M27-nut will hold it all together. If you are afraid that the spline will cut into the thread at rear, the bottom of the spline is 27.2mm, and the thread is outer diameter 27.0mm.
Hard to explain sometimes when my language isn't that good
But you learned me some new words also About Media Blast, I thought you meant that someone have posted som pics that weren't aloud to be posted
Media such as Internet, Paper and Television Language-fail again for me!
Media blasting (or abrasive blasting) is a general term for sandblasting with any type of material be it glass, sand, etc You might say: sandblästra (maybe?)
My concern is that from the pictures it looks like the irons may have been prepped in using that method. If so, it is crucial that they are cleaned effectively. The small particles get everywhere inside these engines and could destroy all your hard work. Even when they appear clean, there may still be some there.
I have never done this myself, but have read horror stories about the sand getting into the oil and destroying all the bearing surfaces and ruining the engine. With as much as you have invested in this project, I wouldn't take the chance.
If they haven't been blasted, those are some pretty irons. Are they brand new?
My concern is that from the pictures it looks like the irons may have been prepped in using that method. If so, it is crucial that they are cleaned effectively. The small particles get everywhere inside these engines and could destroy all your hard work. Even when they appear clean, there may still be some there.
I have never done this myself, but have read horror stories about the sand getting into the oil and destroying all the bearing surfaces and ruining the engine. With as much as you have invested in this project, I wouldn't take the chance.
If they haven't been blasted, those are some pretty irons. Are they brand new?
Hard to explain sometimes when my language isn't that good
Hehe, sorry about that. I guess I was too worried once I saw the pictures to read through it completely (or notice it wasn't OP). 
My bad
My bad
Last edited by He's On Toroids; Nov 2, 2010 at 08:39 AM.
straight 7
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Little Rock, AR
rotary!!
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 145
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From: The Netherlands
I read somewhere in this topic that you're building a 10cc rc modelrotary?
Next to my 1st gen 7 i spend a lot of time with rc modelplanes and one of them i fitted with an 5 cc OS rotary engine.
I'm the only one who uses this type of engine in our club, expensive but it goes like hell
Am still searching for a 50cc rotary, i know they are out there (used in chainsaws back in the 70ties) but extremely rare and way above budget.
BTW, awesome topic this one
Next to my 1st gen 7 i spend a lot of time with rc modelplanes and one of them i fitted with an 5 cc OS rotary engine.
I'm the only one who uses this type of engine in our club, expensive but it goes like hell
Am still searching for a 50cc rotary, i know they are out there (used in chainsaws back in the 70ties) but extremely rare and way above budget.
BTW, awesome topic this one
straight 7
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 79
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From: Little Rock, AR
Rotary for LIFE!
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From: Adelaide, South Australia
Thread Starter
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Posts: 533
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From: Sweden
But as you all know, there will be alot of work. Can't buy any bolt-on-products
89FC
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From: Bay Area, Cali.
