Tegheim - Home made 4 Rotor Wolvo project
11-07-10, 11:02 PM
#251
that's sort of how i envisioned it would have to be done, hopefully the oil seals will survive. it will also be a pita doing the assembly with all those snap rings and keyways. i suppose you could just build the front and rear rotor housings then slip them onto the prebuilt center section, depending on how you have the lobes keyed.
Like those
11-07-10, 11:59 PM
#252
Senior Member
Thread Starter
11-24-10, 02:46 PM
#253
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Puh, very very much work everywhere but the garage!!!
Have done some conection-points between my new frame and the original body. The rollcage will stand upon the frame then and be a part of the contruction.
Sorry for the delay!
Have done some conection-points between my new frame and the original body. The rollcage will stand upon the frame then and be a part of the contruction.
Sorry for the delay!
11-24-10, 06:11 PM
#254
Originally Posted by tegheim
Havn't calculated so much on that. In stock, the nut have to be hard on because of the taper that can't lose grip. In my case, the spline will have power anyways. Will come back with info on the nut
11-24-10, 10:55 PM
#255
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Have forgotten to calculate for you, my bad!
But probobly I will have the standard torque for an 13B-nut, or little less.
If you are going to use an M27x3 nut "all in", the tourqe would be around 930Nm, that is 7965,67 Pound-force inch. Sound very hard!
Will come to you about that!
But probobly I will have the standard torque for an 13B-nut, or little less.
If you are going to use an M27x3 nut "all in", the tourqe would be around 930Nm, that is 7965,67 Pound-force inch. Sound very hard!
Will come to you about that!
11-25-10, 03:45 PM
#256
My friend's 4 rotor shaft was made by Jeff Bruce and has splines. Others who've used the Jeff Bruce shafts have said they torqued theirs the same as an OEM shaft which did not sound like a good idea.
From what I can remember, the nut is 42mm or 48mm, not 54mm. Can't recall the thread pitch or the diameter. If I or someone else can give you the specs on the thread pitch and size, could you calculate an approximate foot pound amount we can aim for with an impact gun?
From what I can remember, the nut is 42mm or 48mm, not 54mm. Can't recall the thread pitch or the diameter. If I or someone else can give you the specs on the thread pitch and size, could you calculate an approximate foot pound amount we can aim for with an impact gun?
11-25-10, 10:57 PM
#257
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My friend's 4 rotor shaft was made by Jeff Bruce and has splines. Others who've used the Jeff Bruce shafts have said they torqued theirs the same as an OEM shaft which did not sound like a good idea.
From what I can remember, the nut is 42mm or 48mm, not 54mm. Can't recall the thread pitch or the diameter. If I or someone else can give you the specs on the thread pitch and size, could you calculate an approximate foot pound amount we can aim for with an impact gun?
From what I can remember, the nut is 42mm or 48mm, not 54mm. Can't recall the thread pitch or the diameter. If I or someone else can give you the specs on the thread pitch and size, could you calculate an approximate foot pound amount we can aim for with an impact gun?
OEM-nut are M36x1.5 fine pitch and therefore the 54mm across flats.
M36x4.0 is the regular pitch for M36 and it holds for 2280Nm = 1681 ft/lbs.
The recommended tourqe for our OEM-nut on 13B flywheel is 350 ft/lbs.
Then you will be able to tighten harder with fine-pitch, but that you already know
Standard M27x3, holds for 961Nm = 708 foot pound (foot pound = ft/lbs?) The M27-nut is 41mm across flats from standard.
I will use M27x1.5 fine pitch, and as above, you can add more tourqe then.
Because the nuts we use are lower, about 15-16mm heigh, they will be less tightened, and therefore 13B and myself use fine pitch.
I can look into how much they holds for today
12-16-10, 03:03 PM
#258
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Have started to cut away the old misstakes and stock floor. Started to align the new frame with the 4-link. The new floor will aly under the frame, and follow the angle up to the link-plates.
12-18-10, 10:32 PM
#260
Drift Ready FC
Man this is some incredable work youve done here
12-23-10, 04:01 PM
#261
Senior Member
Thread Starter
It takes much time just to cut off the old junk, and rebuild it slowly so the shape won't change. Have spend some hours today cutting the old frame I build long ago, and slowly design a new, better one.
Much pics of small changes, but it's always something
Much pics of small changes, but it's always something
12-29-10, 02:53 PM
#262
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Despite the low interest I update a bit
The rear frame have been tried out. Missing a little piece of pipe to finish. Will try to do some nice radius on the last part.
Started on the tunnel instead. Tight and as low as it could be. With drysump, it will be lower.
Mounted the board also to se how it looked, and I'm satified. Will try to use the board in the final also.
Did some paper-template to illustrate the floor.
And again to illustrate, or something
The rear frame have been tried out. Missing a little piece of pipe to finish. Will try to do some nice radius on the last part.
Started on the tunnel instead. Tight and as low as it could be. With drysump, it will be lower.
Mounted the board also to se how it looked, and I'm satified. Will try to use the board in the final also.
Did some paper-template to illustrate the floor.
And again to illustrate, or something
12-29-10, 04:22 PM
#265
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I think there's more interest than you think, just not a lot of people posting to say so. I don't know if I've posted in the thread before, but I've been following it for a while. I'm sure I'm not the only one.
12-30-10, 02:43 AM
#274
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Oh, thanks!
The engine-update will be a little while. Have some issues to handle there berfore I can send it away for first grinding-session. Thats why I build at the chassi and body instead
The engine-update will be a little while. Have some issues to handle there berfore I can send it away for first grinding-session. Thats why I build at the chassi and body instead
12-30-10, 07:42 AM
#275
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