The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
Just a quick question about the mounts advice^
Solid mounts are not recommended because it is more difficult to make alignment adjustments and they are harder on the diff too, correct?
Thanks,
Andrew
Solid mounts are not recommended because it is more difficult to make alignment adjustments and they are harder on the diff too, correct?
Thanks,
Andrew
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
I have a full set up Delrin "bushings" uninstalled. From front control arms to the diff and subframe. After reading this I am not planning on installing them, is there anywhere on the car I might want to use Delrin?
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 21
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
Hey guys, so I'm looking to sell my R33 and pickup a T2 fc3s soon. If i smash my R33 here in Canada I'm SOL and won't be able to find body panels. Heres what I'm going with as I've priced most of it out. If you guys have better experience with other parts dont hesitate to let me know and possibly where you got it from.
Suspension:
Stance - GR + Coilover (Have on my R33, amazing)
Battle Version - Rear Toe Links
Hotline - Drift Knuckle/Spindle
Battle Version - Centre rear camber
AWR - RCA Camber Adjustors
AWR - DTSS Eliminator
Brakes:
stock!!!
SS brake lines
pbr pads (So cheap, what a wicked deal)
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
Stock LS1 for now
Drivetrain:
T56 Tranny
ACT or Bully stage 3 6 puck clutch
MMR - Solid rear subframe mounts
MMR - Solid diff mounts
Wheel/tire:
Broke student status = 17x9.5 Battles with different combinations of spacers.
PSM 30mm stacked wheel spacer set to run front and back with different offset wheels
The only thing I think I'm confused on is the steering angle business. I figured I would get the JTP spindles, but what else do I need with that? Do I need extended inner tie rods and a super angle kit? I was looking at the Stance kit and was wondering if anyone had experience with that, as it seems a little troublesome to get the gp sports kit or supernow from Japan. Also the Mazdatrix kit looks weaksauce and I heard about lots of play in their heims. If anyone could offer me some insight I'd really like to jump ship into a Mazda platform to keep giving my s-chassis buddies a run for their money.
Suspension:
Stance - GR + Coilover (Have on my R33, amazing)
Battle Version - Rear Toe Links
Hotline - Drift Knuckle/Spindle
Battle Version - Centre rear camber
AWR - RCA Camber Adjustors
AWR - DTSS Eliminator
Brakes:
stock!!!
SS brake lines
pbr pads (So cheap, what a wicked deal)
hand brake--- STOCK!!
Engine:
Stock LS1 for now
Drivetrain:
T56 Tranny
ACT or Bully stage 3 6 puck clutch
MMR - Solid rear subframe mounts
MMR - Solid diff mounts
Wheel/tire:
Broke student status = 17x9.5 Battles with different combinations of spacers.
PSM 30mm stacked wheel spacer set to run front and back with different offset wheels
The only thing I think I'm confused on is the steering angle business. I figured I would get the JTP spindles, but what else do I need with that? Do I need extended inner tie rods and a super angle kit? I was looking at the Stance kit and was wondering if anyone had experience with that, as it seems a little troublesome to get the gp sports kit or supernow from Japan. Also the Mazdatrix kit looks weaksauce and I heard about lots of play in their heims. If anyone could offer me some insight I'd really like to jump ship into a Mazda platform to keep giving my s-chassis buddies a run for their money.
i prefer using the mazdaspeed hard rubber bushings for everything... otherwise on suspension pieces i'd suggest using spherical bearings where u can..
So I'm trying to get this all sorted out in my head. On the rear suspension, the toe links adjust the toe in/out(duh), the little guys that everyone seems to cut/weld set the camber, and what the heck is the middle link for then? :/
Thought I also saw some pictures of someone welding the rear "alignment dials" in a fixed position. Or whatever the actual name is...
Thought I also saw some pictures of someone welding the rear "alignment dials" in a fixed position. Or whatever the actual name is...
the middle link as in the "sub link" from the subframe up to chassis? thats camber adjustment too but if you have an adj link there, it changes your pinion angle and it doesn't adjust the camber evenly on both sides. thats why people get AWR or MMR individual camber adjusters to replace "those little guys" as you call them, or just simply cut and weld the stockers. to get even camber on both sides.
Are a lot of you guys running an adjustable center sub link and individual adjusters at the same time or is it a case of one or the other?
Are a lot of you guys running an adjustable center sub link and individual adjusters at the same time or is it a case of one or the other?
Well if you have solid subframe bushings, I guess the sub link isn't good for anything. But I don't see the need for it unless you are trying to adjust pinion angle. I don't think most people would actually have a need for that unless serious/pro racing is involved.
I am definitely interested in the camber adjusters though, since that seems the most user friendly.
With lowering, does the rear toe change much? Or is it just best to zero it out from factory?
Thanks,
Andrew
I am definitely interested in the camber adjusters though, since that seems the most user friendly.
With lowering, does the rear toe change much? Or is it just best to zero it out from factory?
Thanks,
Andrew
Full Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 82
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
