Sorry can't edit last post. Justin uses the gp sports angle kit is confirmed. Buck is I think also

 

I am using the supernow kit and have been for a couple years now. No issues at all with it. I got it from a person off the forum so I couldn't tell you where to get a kit at.

 

Just curious for the reason to stay away from modded knuckles? I think they are the best mod for drifting I personally could have done!

 

I just want to get more comfortable with this car before adding the extra angle and steering sensitivity of knuckles. Really curious to see how it compares to my old Miata setup.

 

I have superNOW cutting tie rod kit.
with dmax washers

 

does Tomei NOT make an LSD for S4 TII housing?

 

Phil, did you get rid of robs old car?????

The FC should feel a lot similar if you have t driven any already and Tomei makes a diff for s4 TII housings George just sold one. If you can't find one get the ats for sure

 

Woah i havent seen this username in ages! haha cool cool yeah someone had told me that so I wanted to check before getting a diff since Tomei is generally on the cheaper end monetary wise.

Yes I sold the Miata. Funny thing is though, I bought Robs Dad's FC. Im practically buying all their cars off them

 

bummer you got rid of the car but excited to see how the FC turns out!

 

after reading a bunch of threads finally doing this **** right. **** power for now im going all out on my rear end/suspension.

how much adjust ability is possible with just the awr indv camber adjuster?

would it be possible to achieve 0 camber in the rear running 17's?

contemplating whether to get a center camber adjuster bar or delrin/solid subframe bushings.

has anyone ever tried these rear camber upper hub bushings?



http://www.himni-racing.com/index.ph...mkq9j0gjoehm51

it looks like it goes into here.


himni claims its adjustable within a range of +/-0.75 degrees, which is more adjustable than the center camber vertical bar, without changing the drive shaft angle.

with the camber hub bushing its possible to run delrin/aluminum subframe bushings and also have more camber adjust ability.

thoughts?

 

my car




motor

stock n/a s5
racing beat headers and corksport cat back

suspension

megan track coilovers
rear sway bar removed
karack rear camber rod
dtss eliminated
no steering mods yet looking for inner tierods as one of my are bent and an angle kit

wheels
crown vics 16x7 +6
5 mm spacer in the front
saleen sc 17x9 +25 in the front
17x10 +20 5 mm spacer in the front

drivetrain
welded the open diff
i have a 4.3 gears from a gtus haven't swapped in though cause not sure it's worth all the trouble

 

Hey fellas, I'm looking for some last minute setup advice.

I'm going out to the local drift event this Sunday, hitting the skidpad/huge circle. I've ponly been once before, but it was nearly 2 years ago, I have better suspension and gears now. It rained almost all day, and I just kept spinning. I did manage to make it around the whole circle one the track dried out some.

I've poked around in this thread, but didn't read every page.
My car is an 89' GTUs fresh engine w/ sleeve inserts, full exhaust, Stock 4.3VLSD(poopy to use), Miata gears, GC coilovers with 430F/375R springs, Koni Yellows, camber/caster plates, ST rear swaybar, TC sportline subframe link

I'll be running 235/45/17's up front, and I have a pair of 225/55/15 Kumho V710's on 15" stang wheels that are nearly toast, and a pair of 205/50/15 Yokohama AVS's on vert wheels that are like new, but are old.

I'm thinking of going max negative camber front, and as close to 0 as I can get the rear.

I have just been using the dump clutch method, or power over with speed to start sliding. I'm planning on finishing off the kumho's then switching to the AVS's.
I also have some 225/55/16 Falken FK452 at the wear bars if you think they'd be better. I'm under the impression I'll have better luck using the smaller diameter tires with my N/A power.
Does it look good, any reccomendations?

I'm not drifitng my Turbo FC(I'm sure you will suggest it), I want to sell it and build a 6-port Turbo with the GTUs.

Thanks!

 

Use a high tire pressure in the rear, like 70~80psi, and no need to zero your rear camber, leave it whereever it is naturally (probably like -2.8). Use lower tire pressures if it rains. Try to stick with a short sidewall, it's easier to control. Tall sidewalls act like a spring once they are loaded up in a given direction.

If you are popping the clutch and spinning over and over you probably need to turn your wheel faster. As the car comes around, your wheel has to rotate in time. If you turn your wheel fast but you initiated aggressively, the car will spin. Try to throw the wheel so the rotation of the wheel catches up to the rotation of the car.

That'll get you started and you can look at other initiation techniques and such when you get used to timing. The key now is timing... time the motions of your hands with the motions of your feet, with the motions of the car.

 

Awesome, I guess I don't really need to worry about blowing out a tire anyway. I'll inflate the **** out of my spares, I can always take pressure out if I need to.

Thanks for the tip!

 

Ilia is spot on..... don't adjust ur rear camber. I'm assuming ur n/a,so you want to break those rear tires loose easy as possible. Adjusting to 0 is for when you need grip. Dont need that until you got some major horses. Also and taught

 

Ilia is spot on..... don't adjust ur rear camber. I'm assuming ur n/a,so you want to break those rear tires loose easy as possible. Adjusting to 0 is for when you need grip. Dont need that until you got some major horses

When I was teaching my freinds in his miata how drift I noticed a big reason why he spun out so much. He wld use one hand to steer and always kept the other the shift ****. Once he learned two hands are faster he stopped spinning out

 

sooo what are you guys using for aftermarket tie rods? i will be buying the supernow tie rod ends, but havent found a tie rod... please school me!

 

Stock inners are fine.

 

howdy! new the forum, need your help!
been drifting for a few years, decided to retire the ae86 i was competing in and buy an fc for something different to the sea of ke/ae's/s13s etc
had its first comp on the weekend, the australian drifting grandprix (similar to FD, it's the national series)
had never driven the car before, we got it together the night before the event
managed to qualify 6th and finish 5th
now to the questions...
it is the hardest thing to drift i've ever driven, it's uber grippy, handbrake barely locks up and gearbox is slow and notchy when shifting, so i'm here to ask you all azs you guys kill it in FCs and seem to know heaps about mint setups, so i really appreciate any help you may give me
mods are
stock engine (13bt) with microtech, front mount, largish exhaust (169rwkw on 10psi)
BC coilovers
cut and shut steering knuckles (DIY)
DTSS eliminators
welded diff
QFM a1rm pads (nice and bitey)
stock swaybars

need to lose the rear end grip, get a mint handbrake (bit of a no brainer- hydro, which sucks cos i wanna leave the interior looking relatively stock) and sort out how **** the shifter is to shift clean and not baulk or miss gears
thanks again for your help (or not so much thanks if you tell me to go bang myself!)

 

lose rear end grip? or gain front end grip?

and rear brakes, just surface the disks and throw the shittiest pads money can buy on the rear, ebrake should work better but it seems to be hit and miss between fc's

 

This is true and I'm not sure why. I added Stoptech rotors and hawk pads to the back and tightened up my ebrake nut so it fully locks the car on three clicks and it works really well. A friend of mine did the same thing and his still doesn't lock.

 

okay cool thanks. i will just buy some new inners and get rack spacers when its time for knuckle kit!

 

trying to lose rear end grip, do people notice they are slipperier with solid subframe mounts? i'm running a fairly large amount of rear camber (moreso i haven't adjusted the camber since i lowered it, thinking it would play in my favour) so i can't see anything else that could be affecting it so badly

 

run more rear tire pressure and stiffen up the rear dampers i guess.

ive never met anybody with more than 200hp asking to lose rear grip. usually its the other way around. interesting.

 

6kg springs would full way up in rear and 55 psi in the tyres
the thing just grips like it's life depends on it, which is weird, i was ready to d/c rear swaybar thinking it would be slippery as.
has anyone found that rear subframe bushes make it slippery?
thanks again for everyones input so far, no one drifts these where i am so information is impossible to come by and trial and error testing isn't really possible with so few track days (we generally only run a competition of 4 rounds and 2 or 3 practice days a year)