The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
That’s good to know. About two weeks ago, I was talking to Jeff Abbott about a week ago on FB, (lotta miata guys run many racks) and he said he’d never want to run a manual (or depowered) rack because of his knuckle kit and caster, and he’s always just ran PS racks.. I guess it really is all preference…
Maybe this is the wrong question for this thread but for those of you that have pb max suspension: how would you say they are in grip aplications? I know a good suspension is a good suspension but I'm curious.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
Probably just fine, however the toe/camber and tire set up would need tweaked compared to drift.
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,564
Likes: 26
From: Cincinnati, OH
Going for a KAAZ 1.5way in the future. I was gonna get the TII one off mazdatrix, and I was assuming I'd use the S4 TII half shafts and custom driveshaft. Correct me if I'm wrong.
For those of you who drift n/a, should I be running wider tires up front to help with understeer? Or same size all around? I always tend to have trouble with understeer at the track. Clutch kicking helps with understeer of course, but many times the car continues straight instead of rotating sideways. Any help would be appreciated.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
From: Spanaway, WA
i havent read all 40 pages.
but what are drifters running for rear sub frame set ups. heard they were not the best?
im going v8 in my s5 vrt and have a welded diff and pbm coils.
im wondering what i should do. any tips help.
but what are drifters running for rear sub frame set ups. heard they were not the best?
im going v8 in my s5 vrt and have a welded diff and pbm coils.
im wondering what i should do. any tips help.
Read all 40 pages. Rear subframe setup can be whatever you want but the main things are keeping the front diff mount in check and considering your rear camber options.
For instance: Sub link will not work with solid subframe mounts.
Individual camber adjusters will NOT work with delrin or aluminum trailing arm bushings as there is zero free movement. IIRC this also effects toe angle as well. Stock or spherical bearings are the way to go if you care about fine tuning your rear alignment.
The front diff mounting point on the subframe can actually rip out of the subframe if there is too much force/movement on it. The diff mount itself can sheer into two peices. They sell truck bump stops from energy suspension at most local auto parts stores for $10ish. Just drill a hole in your chassis and put it right on the nose of the diff. It will keep it from moving upwards when you do clutch kicks or get on the gas.
For instance: Sub link will not work with solid subframe mounts.
Individual camber adjusters will NOT work with delrin or aluminum trailing arm bushings as there is zero free movement. IIRC this also effects toe angle as well. Stock or spherical bearings are the way to go if you care about fine tuning your rear alignment.
The front diff mounting point on the subframe can actually rip out of the subframe if there is too much force/movement on it. The diff mount itself can sheer into two peices. They sell truck bump stops from energy suspension at most local auto parts stores for $10ish. Just drill a hole in your chassis and put it right on the nose of the diff. It will keep it from moving upwards when you do clutch kicks or get on the gas.
The front diff mounting point on the subframe can actually rip out of the subframe if there is too much force/movement on it. The diff mount itself can sheer into two peices. They sell truck bump stops from energy suspension at most local auto parts stores for $10ish. Just drill a hole in your chassis and put it right on the nose of the diff. It will keep it from moving upwards when you do clutch kicks or get on the gas.
so how are people keeping their camber in check with solid or delrin bushings out back? I know there are some of you out there. I'm thinking of just getting new OEM bushings and a combination of adjustable sub link and individual adjusters for now. got pbm coils so stiffness should be all right, I ain't doing serious competitions yet. its another drift/daily na ride for now.
I need to find davedge's setup again for his rear subframe but he also put like $1500 and custom work into it. I'm the usual broke FC drifter so ya.
I need to find davedge's setup again for his rear subframe but he also put like $1500 and custom work into it. I'm the usual broke FC drifter so ya.
I do not. It's really simple though. Like, the diff tunnel is between the rear bins/seats. There should be a dimple right in the middle or sliglty offset. Drill through it. Use a large bit though like 1/2". Whatever is big enough to get the supplied nut in there. After you drill that hole, drill through the second layer but the same size as the bump stop shank.
It's easy. You'll see it when you remove the stuff and look back there and be like "oh, i c!" I've got a few other cheap/free tricks i'd like to try here in a bit. I just spent a good part of the day playing with my alignment and ride height..... Adjusting the rear end is a pain in the ***. 240 guys have it made. *******.....
The subframe bushings, you will want either energy suspension (it's flexy rubber but not super soft like oe) or oem if you want good range of adjustment. You cannot tilt the subrame for camber if you are using solid bushings and a single sublink. It's just not gonna happen. Most just slam the **** or leave it alone and just mess with toe and deal with whatever camber they end up with. I've had 3 sessions on my mmr camber links and they haven't broken yet. So far, so good.
