No need to shut me down. I'm new to rx7s and I want to make sure I'm making the right purchases from the getgo so I don't need to learn the hardway like I did with my R33. I just wanted to know if anyone knew of anything I should change on my parts list from experience before I drop the money.

 

rotaspinna- ya, if you have solid rear bushings, the sublink isn't going to do anything. you would need individual adjusters or cut and weld stockers.

its actually the opposite, the low budget guys usually run adj sublinks when they lower their cars cause its a little cheaper. they just went to get rid of negative camber, the pinion angle thing is just a side effect to that. thats why I'm running a sub link but I'm saving for individuals in the future and using both as I'm sticking with OEM rubber bushings.

 

Matt Rose... Where you guys sliding up in Ottawa? I grew up in Cornwall, always wondered what the drift scene is like back there.

My current setup.

Engine:
s4 turbo, early open extended port
3mm REC seals
solid corner seals
FD corner springs
Mazda race bearings
FD oil pump and pressure reg
Knightsport hybrid turbo
JDM s5 intercooker
MicroShits ECU
1000cc/1000cc setup
My own tune
Custom bad *** boost creep bleed/check valves setup
Underdrive main pully
2 belt water pulley
Godspeed or some **** rad with custom solid lower hose
Stock fan and shroud

Seals have 80xxx kms on them, engine is unknown. Still pulls like a champ and has made many of my friends insert there foot in there mouths. 3 heavy seasons of drifting so far.

Suspension:
Megan coilovers
Poly lower control arm busings
My own custom knuckles
Poly rear control arm bushings
Delrin subframe bushings
Delrin diff bushings
AWR individual Camber adjusters
Solid front diff mount, prelaoded with poly bumstop so it dont rip out.
DTSS elims
Nothced lower control arms
No sway bars.
Super secrete alignment settings. lol.


Drivetrain:
ACT 4 puck sprung clutch
Heavy duty pressure plate
Street light flywheel
Tomei Tech Traxx 2 way, runing almost no pinion bearing preload and .014 backlash. (3 years old)

Brakes:
Stock calipers
HP+ pads front and rear
New ebrake cables
Duck tap the ebrake button
**** locks hard

Body:
Unfortunetly... Bone ******* stock with a missing side skirt. Shitty rolled fenders and the one track i run eats my front fenders Im always spending money on trakc days and ****. My vert will be getting all the KOOL body parts. Plus i just mashed it into a wall haha.

OMP seat and Nard Deep wheel. 10 inch sub, gutted interior.

Car is ugly as **** and dailyed. **** ya. But its get the job done well. Im building a Pro-Am Vert that should look nice when done.

 

Hey guys what would you suggest if I'm looking to build my rear subframe. The T2 I plan on picking up has a spare T2 subframe that I can build over the winter. So far I plan on running:
- Solid diff bushings
- Solid subframe bushings
- Individual camber adjusters (Should I go AWR or MMR??)
- DTSS Elim (Is there a benefit to using the Alum AWR ones as opposed to say the MMR ones?)

Not sure what else is important. Enlighten me so I can start building this thing properly from the start

 

I have heard that the AWR individual camber adjusters are a little bit more reliable and have better longevity then the MMR ones, for drifting anyway. either or though, its not a huge difference between the 2. both brands will probably break eventually if you're into serious drifting. I'm looking into cutting and welding my stock units and running my adj sub link. I think it just sounds better and cheaper if the brand ones break eventually. Just what I have heard from a few guys, no personal experience yet.

 

just curious and yes i will probably sound like a noob.....will removing my power steering and all adjacent components that go along with it hinder any/all drifting aspirations i have for my 87 n/a (really im just tired of having any draws from the already not incredibly strong n/a setup from mazda)

 

^I have a '86 base that was originally non-PS. I changed it out for a PS rack and de-powered it for now. I will chime in soon with what I think about a non-PS rack for drifting. Usually on VERY light cars(Corolla, etc.) are ok w/o PS. Otherwise, you will dislocate your thumbs

 

^I've been drifting manual rack FC's for a couple years now and I'm getting fed up with it. It's doable, but once you get to competitions and stuff, It's a hinderance.

I end up fighting the steering wheel too much.

I'm going PS on the track car I'm building. I'm probably going PS rack with MR2 electric PS pump.

 

jeremy lowe who is number 1 in formula d pro am runs a manual rack in his fc...

 

Manual racks are a slightly different ration lock-lock than power racks. aside from most all the tierod spacers being made for power racks you pretty much have to stick to a powered rack unless you find the secret element specially made spacers for the manual rack (which does feel better than a depowered power rack)

I'm running a power rack without a pump. haven't done anything to it but spray it out with brake cleaner to chase all the fluid out. it feels fine drifting, but yes low speed **** sucks when youre parking/moving through the pits.. just gotta be moving when you try to turn it. it' really not bad though. especially when moving/drifting.

 

I come from a grip background and have just about always used no power steering in track cars. Now that I've started drifting it's the same story. I have bought a MR2 pump and would like to make a selectable on/off system for it. I think that would be cool.

 

i can do a mild streetport on my NA while keeping stock ecu and everything correct? I'm sure i've read before that you can it's just been ages since i've even looked at it.
thanks

 

I believe you can, but you may want to try posting in another section haha

 

why post in a different section? lol this is the only section i actually remember to read, and well, engine is still part of a drift setup

 

how much can I adjust rear toe with my stock eccentric bolt set up can I reach 0 toe or positive toe/toe out

 

with my car being super low i was able to get it straight and had adjustment both ways still.

 

Yea stock FC rear toe adjustment has plenty of range.

 

my car hits zero with adjustment either way on bottomed out old school jic gold coilovers.

i cut and rewelded my side camber links and made my center camber link adjustable. works ******* and is super strong. what should i do about my front diff mount? any options for pinion angle adjustment or does it not matter soo much?

 

i might be forgetting something. i think my camber wouldn't go to zero, but i know the toe did, and had room both ways. camber bar with 1 removed lock nut will go to zero but it feels gay, and dents the **** out of the storage bin areas from tilting the subframe.

cut/weld the individual links on the inner side of the trailing arms, and $$$ will be made.

 

Yeah the stock toe adjustment will go to zero, but you start running into problems if you're wide body and also want some toe-in. The tires will start rubbing the front of the wheel opening/end of the sideskirt area. Then you need to get adjustable lateral links, and use the stock adjustment to move the wheels back.

 

this i was always wondering about. on my chassis i cut into that area, and welded it back up to get more space. good to know.

i also cut a bunch out of the rear of the donor chassis, and intended to dimple die the rear moulding section but never got to it, and now it looks super whack. but here's a photo of the wheel somewhat more forward but this is @ almost zero toe in. and more, and it rubs.

 

Does it make any sense to get knuckles on an NA?

 

It makes more sense to get a turbo on an NA if that helps.

 

Cars daily driven so don't want the hassle or lack of reliability.

 

It makes more sense not to drift it then