haha thug. i want it high as **** once i get my turbo on.
seriously though we dropped it back to 7500rpm to be safe after those issues.
no water meth kit + stock turbo + 8500rpm limiter = disaster waiting to happen.

 

Oh you're no fun. PPort, lightened rotors 12k+ redline, etc...

 

^^Don't bring that weak ****. If I'm ever going to do an N/A rotary drift build it will have a minimum of 3 rotors

 

Well yeah that'd be ideal

 

THIS is what brings the girls to the party.


if it's going to sound like a race car, it had better be as fast as a race car.

 

sounds like meth or water is a must? lol

 

meth is always a must depending on where you get it

 

So I've been running 17s in the rear on my car and I was wondering if going back to the stock 15s would be better? I ask cause when I come into a long sweeper I have to initiate later and usually run out of power before I can get through it and transition. Would the smaller wheels help? Try to enter faster? Etc...

 

Up the psi on the tires.

 

There was a guy running an NA at ECB and he said his rears were at 50psi. He was killing it too. So it might be the way to go. I have a friend with an F20C in an 86 and his rears are at 60psi. So some guys run really high. I've been using the rears at 30psi (Nexen N3000) and like it, but I also have a gt35r to get em movin.

 

I think they're at 35. They might have nitrogen in them, should I drain that first then refill?

 

my TII last year was always at 60-70psi.
i think for irwindale i dropped them to 45 for the first time all year.

 

Strut bars, are they useless? I'm thinking of selling mine since I seemed to do better withouth. Granted I didn't try with my new springs.

 

you think too much into it. it's just drifting. sell them, and buy a pair of tires, and go have fun.
the only strut bar you should be running is the Mazdaspeed one for fashion show purposes.

 

Thanks Buckey. I'm gonna give them another shot, and go from there.

 

Bout to start a build thread for everyone to hate on.....

 

So true. Car, coilovers, cage, seat, tires, and BATTLE ROYALE!!!

 

i like grip. so i run 35psi in my tires

 

I run 25-30 in my 255s. I love grip, but I have been running a 2nd and 3rd gear track recently.

 

Hey guys, so I'm looking to sell my R33 and pickup a T2 fc3s soon. If i smash my R33 here in Canada I'm SOL and won't be able to find body panels. Heres what I'm going with as I've priced most of it out. If you guys have better experience with other parts dont hesitate to let me know and possibly where you got it from.

Suspension:
Stance - GR + Coilover (Have on my R33, amazing)
Battle Version - Rear Toe Links
Hotline - Drift Knuckle/Spindle
Battle Version - Centre rear camber
AWR - RCA Camber Adjustors
AWR - DTSS Eliminator

Brakes:
stock!!!
SS brake lines
pbr pads (So cheap, what a wicked deal)
hand brake--- STOCK!!

Engine:
Stock LS1 for now

Drivetrain:
T56 Tranny
ACT or Bully stage 3 6 puck clutch
MMR - Solid rear subframe mounts
MMR - Solid diff mounts

Wheel/tire:
Broke student status = 17x9.5 Battles with different combinations of spacers.
PSM 30mm stacked wheel spacer set to run front and back with different offset wheels

The only thing I think I'm confused on is the steering angle business. I figured I would get the JTP spindles, but what else do I need with that? Do I need extended inner tie rods and a super angle kit? I was looking at the Stance kit and was wondering if anyone had experience with that, as it seems a little troublesome to get the gp sports kit or supernow from Japan. Also the Mazdatrix kit looks weaksauce and I heard about lots of play in their heims. If anyone could offer me some insight I'd really like to jump ship into a Mazda platform to keep giving my s-chassis buddies a run for their money. And as a little teaser, here's what my R33 looks like haha.

 

we're bored.
it's what we do.

no one wants to see anyone get made fun of with bad ideas. we're just lookin' out!

people gave me ****. i love them for it. my car turned out way cooler than back when it had some 4 lug rotas.

 

I have no experience with Rotas. Some people love em. Some hate em. As far as I'm concerned as long as they do the job I'll take them regardless of brand name. Not saying I know that Rotas do the job though haha.

 

I need to replace my diff mounts and I'm going to do my subframe mounts as well. Suggestions on brand/material? I was going to get the Mazdatrix Comp. mounts for the diff.

 

mazdacomp diff mounts and new stock subframe mounts.

 

Any reason why I should use the stock over the Derlin for the subframe?