You either have something wrong, or are already shimmed. (or your torque wrench is busted.) Stock is 40. Mine ws ~35 shimmed it .17MM and got ~60. It's perfect for me.

 

I already shimmed it quite a bit, I just wanted to see where everyone else was at. My measurement was with one wheel locked and the car in neutral.

 

LOL'd so hard!

 

Anywhere from 80-100ft/lbs feels nice in an FB, I imagine that range would be decent for FC use.

Isaac

 

I've hated verts for the longest time but the wide fendered ones are starting to grow on me

 

federals don't chunk up front FYI

 

I would imagine that would just fillet the **** out of them considering the tread pattern.

3 vice grips AND the strength of a bear chant was required to get mine back together when i shimmed it.

I've been trying to find out if ford disks will work in oem or re-a diffs but got slack and let it go in the midst of 1000010938098203984092834092834 things going on at once with my car right now as it is.

 

half of mazdas drivetrain is ford made.

 

I bet the shim pack for a Ford Motorsports 7.5" Mustang/Ranger diff would work well.

 

Anyone know how much hp JTP was running in the fc? Idk if its mentioned anywhere on this thread and there are a lot of pages. Just curious.

 

i think the final setup was around 480whp.

 

477
473
470

 

I may be able to verify that soon. Trying to get rid of my welded yesterday! Lol. **** understeer.....

 

I thought it was a pretty beefed up engine. How can it not be he ran it in FD.

Ha. Sytfu

 

dont need power to be good, but power helps to be rad!

that car ran the banks of irwindale with 250whp+

honestly, its all about the setup. now that i have driven the car on his setup, i know it can achieve tonz. the angle and grip is dope, the car squats and hooks up perfectly..... its definitely amazing what his kit and setup has done for my fc and the confidence it give the driver in the seat.

 

^ I agree. I was just curious. That set up sounds good. i bet its out of my price range at the moment and perhaps will remain that way. Lol

 

So after I did my turbo swap, my power steering rack didn't line up with the pulley so I did my first drift event of the season without the power steering hooked up. I loved it! It felt great and now I have no desire to hook it up. My question is this. If I switch to a Manual Steering Rack, is it going to make it alot tougher than it was??? It wasn't bad at all and to be honest I kinda forgot I didn't have power steering, so I know I could handle it being a little stronger, but I don't want to do it if it's going to be twice as hard to turn the wheel. It already took a few laps to realize I had to be a little more forceful to countersteer quick enough to not spin out.

So in case that was too confusing. How much harder is it to drive with a manual steering rack than power steering not attached to a pulley?

 

Its the seals and fluid that makes it a PITA to drive on, and looping the lines isnt the correct way to do it either... You can depower the rack by taking out the seals and welding up a collar, im going to do it on the next fc I get my hands on... I know it’s a popular option, since you still have the same ratio (iirc the manual rack is a diff ratio) but its now just been converted to a manual rack… Someone will chime in with some more info..

There is also a thread in the 2nd gen archieve on converting it. And plenty of info on here. So search search search!

 

power rack has better ratio lock to lock.

also i just took my lines off. filled the rack with fluid. put bolts in the holes the lines used to go to..
correct or not, its been like that for years. never an issue.

the reason i did this is because my power steering used to over heat, halfway through a handful of runs, powersteering would become intermittent. kind of gets scary, so instead of spending money on PS cooler, i just disabled it.

 

Why do the fluid and seals make it a PITA do drive on? Is it because of what stevensimon said?

 

I just ran my car last weekend. Have a manual rack and personally prefer it over a depowered ps rack. I'v ran both. Def feel it in the arms afterwards!

 

Your now having to push the seals and the fluid around with no help from the power steering.. if your like me (5'11" 145 lbs, skinny bastard) you need all the help you can get with no PS...
does it feel the same? just differnt ratio? and do you have stock knuckles or modded ones?

edit:
heres the link that i was talking about.. but the forum is down..
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

 

Oh, blindboxx This is a depowered rack that you are talking about. I see.

 

lol i wouldn't ADD PS fluid. thats what makes it more stiff. i chased all the fluid out, and sprayed lithium grease inside, and turned it lock to lock about 60 times. i have a rack now that im going to take apart and remove the friction plates.

just lazy. the power rack when all the fluid is chased out feels like a manual rack, althought they make clunking sounds (obviously) when theres no fluid in them. it's just a small rx7. i weigh like 130, and am not buff at all and it doesnt affect me. however the first event you do in a little bit you'll be sore as hell if you dont work out.

 

Hahaha. I weigh a lot less than that. Lets see what happens. Lol