you gonna swap in 13bt or turbo that motor?

 

Turb 6 port! Do it!

 

Just got done with a nice slow / technical (2nd gear mainly) track and I had a pretty big problem with the front pushing out completely. I would hit the gas, turn the wheel, and the car would literally go perfectly straight. Here is a little background on the setup:

1988 GTU - LS1

0 toe front
1/16 toe in rear

-3 camber front
-.5 camber rear

Stance Coilovers:
Rear set to 0 (softest)
Front (sadly) unknown at this moment.

Stock (t2) front sway bar, rear bar removed (love it).

NT05 225 front
NT05 255 rear / switched to Nexen n3000 225s rear after first session.

S4 T2 LSD that I recently shimmed +.17mm to increase the breakaway from 30 lbs. to ~55. Love it.

Solid rear sub-frame and diff bushings. Competition front diff mount, AWR individual rear camber adjusters and spherical bearings.

The first session it was dry out, had the sticky 255s on the rear, and if I went into a corner and tried to throw the rear out with the engines power and my steering wheel become useless. It would continue to go perfectly straight. It would keep pushing until I would let off the gas, then the car would snap violently in what ever direction I had the wheel turned and scare the crap out of me. When I was able to get the *** out, it was smooth as butter and was easily controllable via throttle. I was unable to lock up the rear with my e-brake with the sticky 255s on, so I did a lot of clutch kicks lol.

I had enough of that so after that session ended I changed the rear tires out for some hard as a rock 225 Nexens. I was able to throw the *** out with a lot less of a clutch kick, and was actually able to do some nice early entry with the e-brake this session, but if I tried to go in with just power, I would still push sometimes.

Sadly I did not have enough time to play with tire pressures, or anything but removing some front negative camber when it started to rain. I did NOT have this problem at the auto cross I went to a couple months ago when I didn't have the shimmed LSD, solid rear end bushings, rear camber adjusters, and still had the sway bar installed. Would that really make that huge of a difference in rear traction?

My question is, do you guys always have to start with a clutch kick or e-brake jab to get the rear out? Maybe this is normal for the FC? What would you guys recommend I try for this Sunday to increase front end traction?

Thanks
~Tweak

Picture of my high 4x4 rx7.

 

Did you modify the e-brake at all? I had trouble getting my rears to lock with the e-brake too. My solution was aftermarket pads and rotors. I also tightened the nut on the e-brake handle until it held the car on a hill with 3 clicks. Now it works great.

 

I do have upgraded pads all around, but stock rotors. Not sure if they are any good but they are not stock. StopTech Street Performance (http://www.stoptech.com/Products/hig...nce_pads.shtml). I will adjust the cable a little tighter tonight or tomorrow.

Would you say you pretty much have to e-brake or clutch kick each entry to get the rear out?

 

Well I use a 13b Turbo, so i'm sure it's different from the torque a v8 provides you. I do use a lot of e-brake, but with just about anything I do i also incorporate some kind of feint movement (some people call it a Scandinavian flick) I had horrible pushing problems until I started doing that. It really helps me bring the *** around.

 

Alright, that is what I wanted to hear. First time out with the new engine I was coming in pretty casually and strait attempting to just use the torque. (wasn't pretty nor exciting lol) I will give it a little more motivation this weekend. It's hard to sit and watch the 240s break loose when there is a slight side wind. XD

Thanks.

(opps and just noticed, my fronts are 235 NT05, not 225)

 

I'd place a fair bet that with all those new rear suspension goodies, the car is now making use of all that rubber to the highest degree.

Usually my car slides with a simple throttle-lift or a quick flick with a tap on the brake. I have broken e-brake cables so no hardcore Hail Mary entries for me. Mine's stock with the exception of Tanabe Pro210 springs, 10k front and 8k rear. It's nowhere close to ideal, but better than broken stock springs.

Soften the front, stiffen the rear, and maybe add a little toe-out up front, it's worked well for me and my underpowered 6-port.

 

Youre car is too high...

Lower it and it will handle better, for sure

 

Clutch kick that ****!

 

I do a slight feint, then ebrake. I take a wider line and never lift.

 

Also this. I'm wondering if I should lower mine more, even though it is a DD.

 

I think it's a little bit of an illusion, the car isn't THAT high. I think I can only drop the front an inch and a half before it will hit the top of the fender when I turn. I will give it a try though. (Ignore the snow XD)



Hopefully the LS7 clutch will hold up to the abuse.

Sounds like I need some new front suspension goodies.

K!NCH: Sounds like a got a few more tricks to try.

Thanks all.

 

That's what I'm talking about. I have the same springs but with KyB agx. Idk the spring rate tho. Unless they are all the same.

 

Depends on where you live and if you dont mind the bbumpy ride so much. If your on flat roads like in the midwest then you can lower it a fair amount. If you livr in the city like i do Its probly best not to lower it too much.

 

I'm not sure you have the same springs ... mine are 2.5" coilover springs, on the stock perches. Fronts are 10k and 7" long, rears are 8k and 200mm [7.8"?] long. They fit like *** and give the car a slight reverse rake, but since I had a broken spring and no replacements laying around these had to work. If I put my Ground Control threaded sleeves in with the perch all the way down, they bring the car back up to stock height.

 

^Mine say GF 210 on them actually. I have that reverse rake too. i dont really like it. Im planning on PBMaz coils though. Or maybe stance if i can spring the extra cash.

 

I might be ghetto ballin' and cut the spring perches off my blown *** front struts, and put the threaded sleeves around the body, leaving them to rest on the bracket that bolts to the knuckle. That'll get me budget-dumped without cutting anything else important.

 

^ lol, sooooooooooooooooooo ghetto. but if you absolutely have to get lower... the things we do to drift. it's no wonder why the auto x-ers laugh at us. I look at it as overly enthusiastic drivers finding creative ways to do what they love.

 

Haha, it'll do until the coils get here. But yeah, the things we do.

If I have to ghetto-fab it until I get coils, I might as well go all-out with the ghetto fabbin'.

 

THIS. at least its only temporary.lol, thought you were planning on running that setup long term.


fixed,lol. keep them rotary's sideways boys, by any means necessary.

 

Yes. I'm on a nonexistent budget at the moment, but taxes and selling some parts will change that somewhat.

After coils comes bushings, wheels, and some modded knuckles.

 

same boat dude. just got pbm coils with my taxes and getting a camber bar through karacks group buy hopefully. picking up the dtss elim's too. I'm waiting until I get a t2 rear end to do the rest of the bushings since I will be swapping from na. I'm all stock '86 base model na right now. gonna need wheels baaaaaad when I get the coils on there but oh well.

currently working on my rocker panels. had to replace the entire passenger side, think I can get away with just cutting out rust and patching the back 8" of the drivers side and the rest of the car is rust free, other then minor surface rust underneath which will be getting sanded and truck bed liner put on the whole under side.

 

Can't wait to get my pbms ,fc fan.

 

if your front struts were some kyb's or something stiffer there would be nothing ghetto about that. not ballin' by any means, but definitely not ghetto either.

my coilovers are pretty much the same thing and my car throws down kind of.