Thanks, haha. Another big bonus to the metal approach, they don't explode or crack when you hit a cone or wall, or when you unbelt a tire after a few hot laps.

 

thats sick... im on the look out for some 18x11 Equips with chrome spokes now



Justin, how do the 11" Meisters fit with spindles?

 

i noticed the other day i rub on the tubs in both front and back of the shock tower, and my ride height is no where near what i want it to be upfront...

i think what everyone is saying is that their wheels rub when turned to the back. but when you turn the wheel the other way they rub frame rail.
IE: wheels turned to the right, the right wheel rubs LCA, but the left (still turned right) is rubbing the front portion of frame rail.

also, you guys need to hammer that little lip down, if you havent already.. (im sure you have, its common sense) just saying as a note if dudes are rubbing that to hit it.

 

Yessir.

 

I'm having trouble with my na fc setup. For rear camber how much negative should I run? I'm currently running -1.5. Also I'm running s14 coilovers but in the front it can only max out neg camber -.6 idk if its the way it was mounted. I been running the coilovers for bout 6 months now. I also zero toe front to rear. Thanks

 

Thanks for being one of the few to fit s chassis coils to an fc. It boggles my mind more people dont do it. Anyway, try zero camber. No kiding. You get alot more control and it makes the car more predictable. You can drive with camber in our cars fine but you might wanna start with zero and add more negative later or vice versa. Just experiment.

 

i was going to when forrest had some blown JIC's laying around, but they got sold.
practically same ****. just swap camber plates. (i wasnt going to drill a hole to halfass it)

 

Thanks for input. I got the coilovers for free. I decided to use them since I had no money to buy nice ones... The problem is the rear shocks are way long. Trying to find a used s13 pair to have a shorter shock. I've had a bad camber problem till I fixed it with some adjust links to even it out. It was in the rear driver
side -2 And passenger side-4. I'm just putting it out to see if you guys had a simlar problem

 

Wait a sec ...

... so S-chassis **** really does bolt up?

I knew I was onto something when I was eyeballing that **** ...

 

so whats up with s chassis ****? if you use s13 rear coilovers they work fine and if you swap (or make) camber plates for the front they work good?

 

Yea s14 is a longer shock in the rear. I've never compare fc coil with s13 I want get. I outlined the top hats of the s chassis and made holes for the top. U can use either 14 or 13

 

Whats the benefit of S-chassis coils to rx7 coils?

 

Probably the fact that they're super easy to find.

 

used at dirt cheap prices? FC coilovers (in my area and online) are hard to find by word of mouth and online compared to the market flood of s chassis coilovers that are used and cheap.lol. but, not all of us live in cali. thats what I've found anyway.

 

I dunno. seems like a lot of work to find used s-chassis coils and then convert them to be used on an rx7 for no performance benefit. I guess I'd rather just wait or save and buy rx7 ones. But admittedly I'm pretty lazy.

 

Took me an hour to finish. Varies tho. I'm on a budget tho but it's worth to pay for the right coilovers.

 

i had the same camber issues with my car when i lowered it, and got it aligned... i could only get it to stay "even" at about 2.5 degrees. i assumed it was because i needed the individual adjusters for the trailing arms.

 

i got the mmr camber adjusters. the individual links actually added + camber instead of neg. and its a bitch to put on too. i heard they break easy due to the heim joint connecting to a metal block.

 

i've also heard that you can only run one to help cut down costs.
alot of roadrace guys do that.

i was looking into the superNOW ones, and they have a straight solid version that look strong. no adjustment though so it seems pointless.

i always have issues with bending the rear toe control link bars. i need to get a legit adjustable set to get my wheels more straight.

 

make one

 

AWR is good stuff. Highly recomend these individual camber adjusters. Ive done a few alignments with these and have gotten both sides even at 0 camber. However you will need to drill a hole through the body because the camber link bolt will hit the body.

 

i like that idea more.

 

^that's what a local guy did.

Took the stock vertical link and set the suspension correctly, Then cut it and welded it at that length to get the right camber/toe

 

Damn makes me want to try it now.

 

Next time I pull out my rear sub frame, Il measure the length of my individual camber links so you guys will know how much to cut to get to zero camber.

I may just do this to my vertt