The OFFICIAL drift setup thread
need some info on who done it:
Straight pipe turbo back to dual 3.5 blast pipes? **** ya? **** no?
Its a track car.
Cant find **** on youtube, nor will my laptop speakers go loud enough to "properly" reconstruct real life volume.
Straight pipe turbo back to dual 3.5 blast pipes? **** ya? **** no?
Its a track car.
Cant find **** on youtube, nor will my laptop speakers go loud enough to "properly" reconstruct real life volume.
I think it depends on where you're driving your car. Some drift organizations may require a muffler, some may not. some may require the exhaust to exit behind the rear axle, some may not. Read the rulebook of whatever organization you're going to drive in before you shell out money for a custom exhaust.
There's probably a better place to ask this but I want to know in terms of drifting use.
What's the best way to attach rear overfenders? Should you use rivets?metal screws? I'm betting I knock these things off every now and again.
What's the best way to attach rear overfenders? Should you use rivets?metal screws? I'm betting I knock these things off every now and again.
I thought i was becoming the ultimate douche but just the same, thanks guys.
They'll be some ghetto **** involved. That's for sure. Everyone who has given me **** about it and hated on it or scratched their head keeps me going because i want to show what the big fuss is about.
I take pride in my ****. It's called pwning ballers with my ghetto steeze.
They'll be some ghetto **** involved. That's for sure. Everyone who has given me **** about it and hated on it or scratched their head keeps me going because i want to show what the big fuss is about.
I take pride in my ****. It's called pwning ballers with my ghetto steeze.


I knew I had seen that somewhere. Granny's has a conversion kit.
http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/
Plastic rivets. They break easily enough like Zip Ties so that if you do have every intention of them sailing off mid-drift after unbelting a tire, they'll be relatively undamaged when it happens.
Zenki, probably going with heavier springs up front or adding some more height on my coils to compensate. It will still squat like it does now, just probably alot more aggresively with more torque and more grip. We'll see. I can pick up a rotary keg by myself. I couldn't even MOVE the vg to level it on the pallet without the aid of a jack. Cast iron blocks are no joke. Weight distribution will still be about the same. though.
And i know you appreciate the hell out of that car too. I take it when the snow melts, it will be ready? I'm pretty excited to see it move and do drifty.
The only thing i will be asking grannys speed shop for is a driveshaft. Actually, i've been asking alot elsewhere on this forum and several others how to go about having one made one off for this and about how much to expect paying without a direct answer. I need to call Grannys up next week, or today or tomorrow. Just soon and order that ****. The mounts will be of my own creation and i'm making my own sump and pickup so i can mount the motor low as **** without lowering the subframe. That's all i need. More bumpsteer......

I'm not baller enough for a VQ and a 1jz/2jz with an r154 is definately too much money for me to merit spending when i still want to do a cage and a bunch of other **** this year.
And i know you appreciate the hell out of that car too. I take it when the snow melts, it will be ready? I'm pretty excited to see it move and do drifty.
The only thing i will be asking grannys speed shop for is a driveshaft. Actually, i've been asking alot elsewhere on this forum and several others how to go about having one made one off for this and about how much to expect paying without a direct answer. I need to call Grannys up next week, or today or tomorrow. Just soon and order that ****. The mounts will be of my own creation and i'm making my own sump and pickup so i can mount the motor low as **** without lowering the subframe. That's all i need. More bumpsteer......


I'm not baller enough for a VQ and a 1jz/2jz with an r154 is definately too much money for me to merit spending when i still want to do a cage and a bunch of other **** this year.
The only thing i will be asking grannys speed shop for is a driveshaft. Actually, i've been asking alot elsewhere on this forum and several others how to go about having one made one off for this and about how much to expect paying without a direct answer. I need to call Grannys up next week, or today or tomorrow. Just soon and order that ****. The mounts will be of my own creation and i'm making my own sump and pickup so i can mount the motor low as **** without lowering the subframe. That's all i need. More bumpsteer...... 



^^^ OH Hatin. I don't care if someone wants to run straight pipes or not. I would just make sure it's in the rules to do. The events I'm going to (Clubloose) has rules against that sort of thing.
"Exhaust must be present and exit outside of the body of the car. Minimum of 4 mufflers
required for NA rotary cars. It is recommended that noise from exhaust not exceed 65dB."
That is actually in the rulebook.
"Exhaust must be present and exit outside of the body of the car. Minimum of 4 mufflers
required for NA rotary cars. It is recommended that noise from exhaust not exceed 65dB."
That is actually in the rulebook.
Do you have a local driveshaft shop? I had the driveshaft for my Nova modified for the 4 speed and I just brought in the old shaft with a trans to diff measurement and what trans went it and he took it from there. Was a little over $100 shortened, balanced with a new yoke and u joints.
the z32 one could be used, but the Mazda drive shaft is a paper weight..
you can cross reference the diff yoke/flange with a Ford part number, but a drive shaft shop wouldn't touch it.
Matt is a rad dude, and they have certain rules they have to adhere to in order for them to run said events. idk why you'd even bring his name up in this, as he could give 2 ***** less about you talking about him i'm sure. dude does more for drifting than alot of people.
as for someone having a 4' section of exhaust on their drift car, doesn't mean they're trying too hard, or retarded... the only one passing hate here is you, as YOU try too hard to make some sort of funny internet bash/joke, when all it does is make an *** out of yourself.
if you have nothing beneficial to provide in this section of the forum, then maybe you should go lurk somewhere else...
-Buckey.
^^^ Bucky is Hater Hatin. Anywho I'm going to be doing a little v-mounting to my fc soon. That should keep my temps low. I'm going to have a great performing car that looks so bad it's amazing. (Don't mistake that statement for me saying I will perform well behind the wheel)
you do realize that Mazda FC Drive shafts came with irreplaceable u-joints right?
the z32 one could be used, but the Mazda drive shaft is a paper weight..
you can cross reference the diff yoke/flange with a Ford part number, but a drive shaft shop wouldn't touch it.
the z32 one could be used, but the Mazda drive shaft is a paper weight..
you can cross reference the diff yoke/flange with a Ford part number, but a drive shaft shop wouldn't touch it.
I believe the T-II driveshaft is beefier and may have serviceable U-joints [don't quote me on that though]. I'm told that the N/A and T-II output shafts are different sizes and splines on the transmissions themselves [never tried switching the two]. Since I plan on staying with an N/A trans until I do the Rx8 6-speed, I want the driveshaft to hold the abuse I'm tossing at the car. The future holds a twin-turbo 6-port, so I am keeping it in mind, granted it may be after the Rx8 trans.
I believe the T-II driveshaft is beefier and may have serviceable U-joints [don't quote me on that though]. I'm told that the N/A and T-II output shafts are different sizes and splines on the transmissions themselves [never tried switching the two]. Since I plan on staying with an N/A trans until I do the Rx8 6-speed, I want the driveshaft to hold the abuse I'm tossing at the car. The future holds a twin-turbo 6-port, so I am keeping it in mind, granted it may be after the Rx8 trans.
TII driveshaft will work if you get a "step" drill bit, and drill the holes larger on both the driveshaft flange, and Diff flange. (best route to half *** it)
or instead of half assing it you can pay like $250, and get the mazdatrix custom one.
none of the FC driveshafts had replaceable u-joints.. not even TII.
or for an extra hundred you can buy a TII LSD/Axles and be ready for power later on.
for the price of halfassing it you can just get the MazdaTrix one.
please don't twin-turbo your 6point, and especially don't use an RX8 tranny...
... and I can get Rx8 trannies for dirt cheap. Cheaper than N/A trannies, cheap.
-edit-
Hot damn, I never looked at the Mazdatrix driveshaft before ... it's about the same price as a custom-fab unit from my local guy. Guess I know what I'm getting next, after driveshaft hoops lol.
Last edited by Daviticus; Feb 4, 2011 at 02:35 AM.
New England has gone soft and i was born and raised in NY.

Good power can be made on FD twins actually and i thought of doing that myself but i agree that the rx8 trans is a little too much work when you could just run TII or perhaps fd if it bolts up?


