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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #876  
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need some info on who done it:

Straight pipe turbo back to dual 3.5 blast pipes? **** ya? **** no?

Its a track car.

Cant find **** on youtube, nor will my laptop speakers go loud enough to "properly" reconstruct real life volume.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 07:30 PM
  #877  
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You can't afford mufflers or something?
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 08:56 PM
  #878  
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mufflers are for street cars...

im only going to run a 4ft length (4in diameter) downpipe

super loud
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 09:15 PM
  #879  
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I think it depends on where you're driving your car. Some drift organizations may require a muffler, some may not. some may require the exhaust to exit behind the rear axle, some may not. Read the rulebook of whatever organization you're going to drive in before you shell out money for a custom exhaust.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 09:26 PM
  #880  
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There's probably a better place to ask this but I want to know in terms of drifting use.

What's the best way to attach rear overfenders? Should you use rivets?metal screws? I'm betting I knock these things off every now and again.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 09:52 PM
  #881  
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
I thought i was becoming the ultimate douche but just the same, thanks guys.

They'll be some ghetto **** involved. That's for sure. Everyone who has given me **** about it and hated on it or scratched their head keeps me going because i want to show what the big fuss is about.


I take pride in my ****. It's called pwning ballers with my ghetto steeze.


I knew I had seen that somewhere. Granny's has a conversion kit.

http://www.grannysspeedshop.com/
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 11:18 PM
  #882  
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7
There's probably a better place to ask this but I want to know in terms of drifting use.

What's the best way to attach rear overfenders? Should you use rivets?metal screws? I'm betting I knock these things off every now and again.
Plastic rivets. They break easily enough like Zip Ties so that if you do have every intention of them sailing off mid-drift after unbelting a tire, they'll be relatively undamaged when it happens.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 04:05 AM
  #883  
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
im sure its a heavy block right??

Then your fc will never be reverse rake...
YES! haha
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 05:58 AM
  #884  
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Zenki, probably going with heavier springs up front or adding some more height on my coils to compensate. It will still squat like it does now, just probably alot more aggresively with more torque and more grip. We'll see. I can pick up a rotary keg by myself. I couldn't even MOVE the vg to level it on the pallet without the aid of a jack. Cast iron blocks are no joke. Weight distribution will still be about the same. though.

Originally Posted by SlideAlliance
You'd laugh if you saw what my white car looked like when I got it

And i know you appreciate the hell out of that car too. I take it when the snow melts, it will be ready? I'm pretty excited to see it move and do drifty.



The only thing i will be asking grannys speed shop for is a driveshaft. Actually, i've been asking alot elsewhere on this forum and several others how to go about having one made one off for this and about how much to expect paying without a direct answer. I need to call Grannys up next week, or today or tomorrow. Just soon and order that ****. The mounts will be of my own creation and i'm making my own sump and pickup so i can mount the motor low as **** without lowering the subframe. That's all i need. More bumpsteer......

I'm not baller enough for a VQ and a 1jz/2jz with an r154 is definately too much money for me to merit spending when i still want to do a cage and a bunch of other **** this year.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 06:55 AM
  #885  
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
I'm not baller enough for a VQ and a 1jz/2jz with an r154 is definately too much money for me to merit spending when i still want to do a cage and a bunch of other **** this year.
I feel ya I'd rather finish my cage and suspension than have my RB swap running haha
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 08:54 AM
  #886  
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Originally Posted by NoPistons!
The only thing i will be asking grannys speed shop for is a driveshaft. Actually, i've been asking alot elsewhere on this forum and several others how to go about having one made one off for this and about how much to expect paying without a direct answer. I need to call Grannys up next week, or today or tomorrow. Just soon and order that ****. The mounts will be of my own creation and i'm making my own sump and pickup so i can mount the motor low as **** without lowering the subframe. That's all i need. More bumpsteer......
Do you have a local driveshaft shop? I had the driveshaft for my Nova modified for the 4 speed and I just brought in the old shaft with a trans to diff measurement and what trans went it and he took it from there. Was a little over $100 shortened, balanced with a new yoke and u joints.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 10:56 AM
  #887  
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
mufflers are for street cars...

im only going to run a 4ft length (4in diameter) downpipe

super loud
You're trying way to hard to impress people. Tone it down a bit champ.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 11:33 AM
  #888  
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^^^ OH Hatin. I don't care if someone wants to run straight pipes or not. I would just make sure it's in the rules to do. The events I'm going to (Clubloose) has rules against that sort of thing.

"Exhaust must be present and exit outside of the body of the car. Minimum of 4 mufflers
required for NA rotary cars. It is recommended that noise from exhaust not exceed 65dB."

That is actually in the rulebook.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 11:47 AM
  #889  
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That's because Tim and Petty don't allow retards at their events. They'll just send you home. What other events have an open bar at their track days?
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 03:05 PM
  #890  
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
Do you have a local driveshaft shop? I had the driveshaft for my Nova modified for the 4 speed and I just brought in the old shaft with a trans to diff measurement and what trans went it and he took it from there. Was a little over $100 shortened, balanced with a new yoke and u joints.
you do realize that Mazda FC Drive shafts came with irreplaceable u-joints right?

the z32 one could be used, but the Mazda drive shaft is a paper weight..
you can cross reference the diff yoke/flange with a Ford part number, but a drive shaft shop wouldn't touch it.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 03:10 PM
  #891  
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
That's because Tim and Petty don't allow retards at their events. They'll just send you home. What other events have an open bar at their track days?
you're unbelievable with your remarks towards others! haha someone got picked on a bit too much during high school..

Matt is a rad dude, and they have certain rules they have to adhere to in order for them to run said events. idk why you'd even bring his name up in this, as he could give 2 ***** less about you talking about him i'm sure. dude does more for drifting than alot of people.

as for someone having a 4' section of exhaust on their drift car, doesn't mean they're trying too hard, or retarded... the only one passing hate here is you, as YOU try too hard to make some sort of funny internet bash/joke, when all it does is make an *** out of yourself.

if you have nothing beneficial to provide in this section of the forum, then maybe you should go lurk somewhere else...

-Buckey.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 03:35 PM
  #892  
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^^^ Bucky is Hater Hatin. Anywho I'm going to be doing a little v-mounting to my fc soon. That should keep my temps low. I'm going to have a great performing car that looks so bad it's amazing. (Don't mistake that statement for me saying I will perform well behind the wheel)
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #893  
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
you do realize that Mazda FC Drive shafts came with irreplaceable u-joints right?

the z32 one could be used, but the Mazda drive shaft is a paper weight..
you can cross reference the diff yoke/flange with a Ford part number, but a drive shaft shop wouldn't touch it.
I hope that's not the case, at least around my area ... I was gonna drop some cash to have a custom shaft built with the OEM output shaft spline on it, since I'm not about to spend mad cash on a T-II trans swap.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 07:28 PM
  #894  
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What's the difference between a turbo driveshaft and an NA drivshaft?
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 08:55 PM
  #895  
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I believe the T-II driveshaft is beefier and may have serviceable U-joints [don't quote me on that though]. I'm told that the N/A and T-II output shafts are different sizes and splines on the transmissions themselves [never tried switching the two]. Since I plan on staying with an N/A trans until I do the Rx8 6-speed, I want the driveshaft to hold the abuse I'm tossing at the car. The future holds a twin-turbo 6-port, so I am keeping it in mind, granted it may be after the Rx8 trans.
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Old Feb 3, 2011 | 10:18 PM
  #896  
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Originally Posted by Daviticus
I believe the T-II driveshaft is beefier and may have serviceable U-joints [don't quote me on that though]. I'm told that the N/A and T-II output shafts are different sizes and splines on the transmissions themselves [never tried switching the two]. Since I plan on staying with an N/A trans until I do the Rx8 6-speed, I want the driveshaft to hold the abuse I'm tossing at the car. The future holds a twin-turbo 6-port, so I am keeping it in mind, granted it may be after the Rx8 trans.
TII trans output shaft is bigger. an automatic/na vert driveshaft will work, with adding washers. (sketchy, and don't recommend it)

TII driveshaft will work if you get a "step" drill bit, and drill the holes larger on both the driveshaft flange, and Diff flange. (best route to half *** it)


or instead of half assing it you can pay like $250, and get the mazdatrix custom one.
none of the FC driveshafts had replaceable u-joints.. not even TII.

or for an extra hundred you can buy a TII LSD/Axles and be ready for power later on.


for the price of halfassing it you can just get the MazdaTrix one.

please don't twin-turbo your 6point, and especially don't use an RX8 tranny...
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 02:32 AM
  #897  
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Originally Posted by red92vr4buckey
please don't twin-turbo your 6point, and especially don't use an RX8 tranny...
Just you wait Buckey ... I'm doing it for the haters.

... and I can get Rx8 trannies for dirt cheap. Cheaper than N/A trannies, cheap.

-edit-

Hot damn, I never looked at the Mazdatrix driveshaft before ... it's about the same price as a custom-fab unit from my local guy. Guess I know what I'm getting next, after driveshaft hoops lol.

Last edited by Daviticus; Feb 4, 2011 at 02:35 AM.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 03:44 AM
  #898  
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Originally Posted by RXILVER7

"Exhaust must be present and exit outside of the body of the car. Minimum of 4 mufflers
required for NA rotary cars. It is recommended that noise from exhaust not exceed 65dB."

That is actually in the rulebook.
**** that noise. No pun intended. 65db? I FART louder than that.

New England has gone soft and i was born and raised in NY.

Good power can be made on FD twins actually and i thought of doing that myself but i agree that the rx8 trans is a little too much work when you could just run TII or perhaps fd if it bolts up?
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 08:39 AM
  #899  
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I say go for it. 6 Port twin turbo. RX8 trans. It's all good. Just an individual expression thats all.
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Old Feb 4, 2011 | 03:19 PM
  #900  
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Originally Posted by SlideAlliance
If you're swapping transmissions out stop being a ***** and buy a sequential.


As soon as I have the money for one I am absofuckinglutely doing it, driving a car with one is so sweet, violent as **** but they sound sweet
sequential = <3
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