You guys miss that part? The transmissions are all interchangeable, from SA/FB all the way up to Rx8. Bellhousing patterns are identical. The Rx8 I know for fact uses a Turbo-II flywheel and clutch setup, not the smaller N/A garbage.

And since I'm a ghetto bastard, I won't be using the FD twins, rather, a pair of Mitsu TD05H-12As I've got on my desk from my Starion and Conquest.

Ghetto = Fun. And I'm gonna have a damned lot of it breaking ****.

******' yes.

 

RX8 Tranny is GLASS.
same as S2k. you'll grenade gears with any kind of power.

it's practically an NA trans with another gear between 4th/5th.

 

Davictus, iirc you can buy 3 bolt mitsu flange twin manifolds from tiger japanese(?) or one of those importers. They're always selling legit used r magic, greddy, hks and whatnot on ebay. A bit pricey but imo they look like cool pieces and are somewhat rare. A single wont lag bad on a 6port but twins but twins would just look cool and probably perform well sized/tuned right.


Check out those holset variable vane turbos. Controlling the stepper for the vanes is a bit tricky and some can be actuated mechanically with some tweak work but they also allow GOOD turbo response. Have yet to see a vgt holset used on a rotary.


True that. I'm not even bullshitting when i said a year or so ago i want an ikeya shifter. Not true sequential and destroys gear boxes if you shift wrong. I dont throw all my 1-5 shifts at the same speed and motion b/c i know what me gearbox does and doesn't like but for the novelty and the fact they look cool. KA gearboxes are dirt cheap and hold ok power. $800 is alot of bank for something i dont need but i've always liked the idea of sequencially shifting. 300zx tt box has STRAIGHT CUT and dog ring gear sets available. MMMM. Straight cuts.


Sunburn, you have a dope transmission. Uber jealous.

 

is anyone running softer springs in the front and stiffer springs in the rear, if so what are the pros and cons to it? i know it would cause the car to oversteer a lot easier but is it actually possible to have a decent set up?

 

Try it if you have coilovers that have same length springs.

Not being able to squat and diving harder than you squat sounds rather unstable to me but that's just my opinion based off nothing more than what i feel driving a car with the usual "stiff front, softer rear" spring rate configuration. Dave, CJ, Justin, Bruce, DK, Russ and several others have stated often "squat is good. It's what you want"

 

you want softer rears springs for sure.
mine suck. i just spin wheels and go no where..

 

Yep. I know the feeling. Then again i have like 4" of contact patch if that on both my rear wheels. **** wheel fitment. **** is retarded in an fc. It looks cool but wheel spin when you're trying to pick up speed reminds me of my ff drifting days where i'd go hard, initiate with the handbrake and run out of steam trying to keep angle leaving the corner exit.

The whole point of a drift is to maintain that hairline limit of grip and spin. You can adjust that limit a few hairs thicker balancing your setup and adjusting your driving.

Ilia said something to me that stuck hard and it was tire slip angle. The forces acting on your tires and the pavement are more important than anything else when it comes to tuning your setup so adjust accordingly. And remember "Jarhead" when they were going through boot? "without my rifle, i am useless. Without me, my rifle is useless" Yeah. That's you man. You have to make the car and you have to feel comfortable driving it. There were setups i played with that were downright scary and VERY difficult to get a handle on. I had the same mentality though. Make the rears super hard and the fronts soft and i think that was from playing too much nfsu. I was on that like crack when they had a game out that had a "drift" level. Lol!

Sorry for my long-winded semi-rant posts. I come here and do this to take my mind of the plethora of other **** i have going on outside of cars.

 

nfsu? sorry i dont play video games.

i like the way his car moves. im currently running a 9k/7k set up on zeals. this guy is using a 6k/7k set up. thinking about ordering some 6k springs to try it out.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9flgeRJGEo

 

The Mazdaspeed Miata box is supposedly weaker than the Rx8, and I've seen many an MSM on R-comps and 300bhp do some nasty work. I'm confident it'll hold. If/when it does break, well, we'll all know for sure what kind of punishment they can take.

I'd go that route, but my TD05s use a 4-bolt DSM flange. No biggie, just a bit bulky is all. I'll try it mostly for the novelty and the fact I've got 9/10ths of the **** to do it laying around being useless. I had entertained the idea of a VGT Holset, and may still, I can get them cheap out here in Utah, and I have a buddy who has plans to build a controller that references RPM and boost pressure, and can modulate a stepper motor or PWM actuator. Might get him to make a few and put them on eBay, could start something there.

As far as spring rates, I still very much enjoy my 10kF/8kR spring setup, even on garbage KYBs. The car rotates nicely even with an open diff.

 

Dude, no bullshit....i was away for a little while looking at music on youtube and happened to watch this vid. I had no idea that was the setup. I just watched the vid. Orido, Taniguchi and Tsuchiya in those vids ******* kill it. Any car they get in they can drive but i watched this and the DG5 vs something or other s15 back to back.


Before i was into car ownership (had cars but my bmx was all i wanted and needed) i played the **** out of GT2 and NFS. I didn't know jack **** about car setup and figured taking the boing out of the rear suspension would make it easier to produce an oversteering setup with ALOT of front grip. Mind you thats an s13 and we have FC's. Shorter wheel base and trailing arm vs multi link. You should just go and try changing your rates up for yourself. Dont wait on someone else to give their opinion b/c it's just that. An opinion. We all feel and set our cars up different.

 

Different spring rates for different cars

 

I picked this up for my new shell. $800 CAN.



So far seems to have almost no rust, a little on the floor, hard to find them up here without it. Bone stock, straight.

Stiched, caged and kitted. Swaping all my current stuff over.

So help me out if you guys have any info on manual tops and cage fittment. I would like to get a top with no glass. Stoked.

 

make it into a coupe FC

 

i have been waiting to see someone do this for so many years.

 

Hard top? I still want to be able to throw down, with the top down. If my coupe didnt have a sunroof, i would think about it.

 

I like Colorado, my brother lives there... But Van City is gonna say "whats up"

 

Whats the deal with removing the sway bars for drifting? Isnt the point to keep the boddy as stable as possible? Does the removal if the sway bars make it more responsive somehow?

 

I'll Take a shot at that. What I understand is that with a set of stiff aftermarket coilovers there is virtually no body roll anyway. The rear sway bar is removed so that the weight transfer happens more slowly and consistently. With the short wheelbase of an rx7 and a sway bar that absolute stiffness can actually be your enemy. The front sway bar is removed because that allows for more steering angle to be used on the front wheels.

I'm not expert so anyone else feel free to check any of this

 

Hmm. Well I dont have coil overs yet. i just have kyb agx and Tonabi gf 210 springs.

 

Winner winner chicken dinner.

I'm still going to install T-II sways in my car before coilovers, who knows, I might keep them in after the switch.

 

Thanks for the info guys. I guess i have the stiffer sways since im T2. it is snappy. almost violent. Lol

 

Im pretty sure as long as you have stiff coilovers for any car and the right bracing, you wouldnt even need sway bars.


kinda like the guys who put big *** fmic's on a sr with a t25 on it. its just not needed.

 

^^^ I'm not sure about that. I've been in a 2007 mustang with coilovers and sway bars and it had a ton of body roll compared to either of my rx7s.

 

heavier cars would benefit from sway bars I would think even equipped with very stiff spring rates. cars like mustangs but also cars like lexus SC's and IS's as well as toyota chasers. they have a lot of weight to throw around so I would think the sway bar would help that transition positively in those cars. The FC is one of the very few cars I have personally heard of where taking off swaybars actually makes drifting easier/ doesn't make a big diference. only other car I heard is the s2k's, probably since they are 50/50 weight distributed as well.

*disclaimer: I am not a pro or have any degrees pertaining to suspension geometry or physics, these are merely my opinions.lol

 

9 hrs in. Interior completely out, all sound deading out, cut out spare tire holder and windscreen ****. Converted top to manual. etc. Made the lower rad support/gaurd, mocked up the setup.

Gonna start getting the car ready for stiching tuesday. Hope to start cage in 2 weeks. Working on verts is awesome, no cramped ****. haha.