wait... thats a new pic???

i meant why were you rockin TE's.


i know those are meister's

 

i'm still not following u..???

i haven't had te's in about a year... sold them to get 17x10/18x11 type f's.. and those 18x11/18x12 meisters..

 

You had the Meisters at Sevenstock iirc, from the video my friend took.

Who makes the Type Fs? EDIT, nvm found it.

 

Haven't tried yet, but I don't know if they will. Which is kinda lame, cuz I wanted to have some 20mm ones for the rear for my drift spares, but then I couldn't just take the spacers off to run the Works... I think

Is there a way to do this? Just for the rear?

 

Sorry, like running longer studs, with no spacers.

I'm asking if there is a way for me to get some 20mm spacers for the rear tires. Only for when I run my Turbo/Vert wheels. And then be able to take off the spacers for when I wanna put on my Works, since they are 2.5 inches wider. But with extra long studs, my lug nuts wouldn't tighten without the spacer, yeah?

edit: and be able to do this with ease. I don't wanna have to take apart my brakes every time I wanna switch wheels. I just wanna be able to take off my 9" wheels. Throw on the 20mm spacer, throw on my drift spares 6.5" wheels. And do some runs. Then take off the wheels, take off the spacers, and put my 9" wheels back on. Hope this all makes sense, lol.

 

Use open lug nuts not capped ones.

 

Nice, didn't know they made those!

 

Does lug nut style matter? I have a set of muteki, and they fit my wheels and such but a friend of mine said they were the wrong style for my wheel and wasn't sure what he meant. Running XXR 009s, and these are the lugs.

 

 

did some **** today... finished the inlet/outlet on the radiator, and cut the piping for the turbo









... ******* contaminated aluminum does not TIG very well, but its solid so what the hell



i also made custom radiator hoses from auto zone... only until i can afford the -10 AN for the inlet/outlet and for the water housing and neck... ******* are like $100 a piece

 

My friend gave me some splines for my wheels would they work the same as the mutekis i posted?

 

If the outside is splined and they are OPEN ENDED, yes.

If the inside is splined (obvious open ended) i'd advise against. I've seen nogs break and strip those styles out.

Justin, the works>TE's. Good call. Plz, plz test fit those ******* on the fd....just for funz!

Buckey, i roll the dice and slide about with my gas gauge on E alot. THe few times it has died out on me (the car) I almost died. 330 wheel+a shitload of camber, even with heims and pillowballs=bad when you have no power to your pump.... Not impossible with a manual rack but i can sort of sympathize with you. I want to up to a 360 so i can drive with my knee again.

 

Still can't get to lock without rubbing. I'm going to try the smaller tire (currently use a 225/45/17 an I'm switching to a 215/40/17) I hope that will work.

 

I only rub a little on the inside fender and control arms.
I'm running 17x8 35 offset // 235/45/17 // No angle mods

What are you hitting? Inside/outside lip?
Got angle mods?

Spacers can sometimes fix the issue of bad offset wheels.

 

^^ Yeah I've got 17x8 wheels with a +35 offset and 10mm spacers. I have secret element inner tie rods. Which prolly adds a few more degrees of steering angle. I am rubbing the inner fenders and control arms. I don't rub on the outside fender at all. I'm running -3 degrees of camber.

 

The inside has always been an issue when you go angle mods.

Changing tires isn't going to do much. You may clear the inside fender a bit but that won't change control arm contact. If anything you may change it to rim on control arm contact instead of rubber tread to control arm contact.

Putting the wheel out farther is the solution usually. Most people I know are going for 11 offset to Plus sizes depending on rim width.

Then wide fenders if needed to cover wheels spaced out.

 

215/40 with some 25mm or 37mm spacers and you'll be golden

i had 215/40 RT615's on 17x8.5 +28 with 37mm spacers on STOCK fenders...

 

i run 215/40 fronts too and the tire's dont rub. rim lip did, but now my control arm is about to fall in half from the slice, and my inner rim lip is smooth so its golden. **** positive offsets.

 

Before anyone complains about "omg overs are expensive, will i need those for less moar offset moar angle knuckles like super crazy **** spindles?"

No. Dont be a ***** and dust off those tin snips.

 

yeah but that car in the pic is a POS! if youre going to do it atleast have SOME self respect and make it look good..

 

or just enlarge the bolt holes on stock fender, and pull the whole thing wider until you buy overs... looks whatever, but it's still complete, and easy.
cleared 18x9 +19 with spindles, a 25mm bolton spacer, and 215/40s

 

I prefer the slotting bolt holes idea to the tin snips idea. If it ever comes to that I'll just buy the wide fenders.

 

but then you will have gay hood to fender gap

**** that


if its a track car, then find the right tire size and camber you will pull off some sick ****

 

I've just cut the fender on the top crease where it aligns with the hood, and welded in ~2" of strip sheet metal. Same with the bottom, then simply bend the fender where it aligns with the bumper cover and presto, widebody with OEM lines, for under $50.

The rears get harder, but if you have or can find another car with good rear quarters, cut them out, and do the same thing, just add metal and flare away!

 

I like your style