^^ out of a two rotor the most horsepower you will see is about 315. Plust P-porting (if you don't have access to a machine shop) is expensive and difficult to do. Turbo route is just easier I guess.

 

why are v mount setups the radiator is low to the ground?

 

Makes sense. But with all the blown engines/turbos etc the price seems to even out. Granted the power is limited. But for someone not looking at Formula D it seems like it'd be enough.

 

nobody said na was impossible..

another drawback (for me at least) is the noise that an na makes. they are deafening loud without a turbo there to choke up the sound a bit. its no fun to slide when you have a pounding headache and ringing ears.

 

earplugs?

 

Didn't say it was either lol.

And if I did it'd be mostly a track only car, and I'd probably run a control valve if I ever took it on the street. And wearing a helmet kinda drones out some of it.

 

I think the real drawback is usable power band.

With an NA rotary, you may be able to make mid 200HP rang with off the shelf parts... but that will be from 6-8000 RPM. Which is not a very broad range, making you shift gears a lot more. Now consider that all of this shifting will be above 5000 RPM, you will be eating synchros and clutch disks... If you plan on running over 8000 RPM continually, you will need to spend more time with the build, balancing the entire rotating assembly so you aren't putting more stress on the main bearings/stationaries.

Now you put a turbo on a similar motor, you will be over 100% VE by 3-3500 RPM and if set up properly, this power band will go up to double that of NA, by the 8000 RPM mark. You will lose a little throttle response... but the Positives out weigh the negatives by a landslide.

 

Thank you for this! This is the kind of thing I was looking for.

 

^^ Whoa that was serious info

 

Venture out of the drifting section. You'd be surprised what you can dig up. However you have secretive draggers/racers out there who are ******** and REFUSE to post up their dyno sheets for their bp/pp engines.

It's cheaper to add a rotor than it is to maintain a two rotor with heavy porting, i'm sure. Extended port 20b would have a nice powerband and sound awesome. More money outright but more enjoyable and cheaper in the long run.

It's not a pipe dream if you've got $3500 laying around and can save money. People pay that on wheels and tires alone.

 

I've looked around the NA section a bit, was waiting to see what kind of numbers one of the guys was going to get on a DD P-port.

I talked to SlideAlliance about doing an NA-T. Just a stock turbo, tmic and such. We'll see.

 

Never understood the NA-T. isn't it cheaper and easier to just swap in the T2 motor and tranny

 

YES.

And also, buying a TII, is cheaper and easier than converting an NA to turbo.

 

^ depends on how many parts you can/want to sell off the NA too doesn't it?lol. if the na motor is still going and the tranny is in usable condition (synchros are always an issue with na tranny) then you can make back some. There are people from time to time looking to replace a blown NA engine or buy them for parts. also, if you are wanting to sell interior peices as well. Realistically, you could make back at least $500-600. But it IS more work so how much is your time worth?

The thing to do would be to buy an NA shell cheap and then the t2 stuff. so you get the benefit if your shell has no sunroof, no power locks,etc. Thats the only plus I see in using the NA chassis, less work removing all that stuff and the no sunroof thing. otherwise, whats the point? might as well sell the na if it has a sunroof and power everything and get a t2 if the chassis isn't lighter. GTU-S and base model s4's should be the only ones getting t2 swaps. my .02.

 

^^ One benefit of an NA shell with T2 power is that on your insurance it looks like a non turbo so you pay less.

 

Only way I'd go NA is 20b.
The rotary truely does well with forced induction. NA 13b power is only for the rich and looney.

As for the NPR IC. I love mine.

 

The reason I had mention NA-T was because my motor only has 65k original on it and running strong. I'll probably hold out till the motor is starting to go then swap it.

 

Just swap it now. Did you say DD P port? NO. Just no. I suppose if you really want to hate life and suck down gas like whiskey after you caught your wife ******* the landscaper.

 

especially in the long run.. my NA - TurboII swap 3 times over was a headache.
picked up a $2100 turboII, and boom. instant missile.

 

I liked swapping to a turbo motor because you get to go over the whole thing and make sure the job is done right. Starting with a turbo car seems more like picking up some other jerk's problems.

 

it's all about how you're covered. i didnt notice any increase when i switched cars... a 2nd gen RX7 is a 2nd gen RX7. hell i even made the mistake of telling them i swapped the TII motor in (i had CPE coverage) and the price never went up.
my TII has coverage on my wheels, and every part on my car given i can provide documentation (one reason why i keep up on build threads/photos) i only pay $120 for CP&E, and state requirements to drive my car.

 

you can do the same thing. just everything is there. from the factory. one thing my TII had that not one single person ever told me about getting for the TII swap, was the TURBO passenger kick panel assortment of sensors. there were 4 different sensors that i never had plugged into anything when i did the swap...

i railed the **** out of the TII when i test drove it. the kids dad was like "open it up, it's not a V8 but it has some kick to it" hahaha dude wasn't aware of the mean power band when you know whats up.

 

If I did it, it would be a strict track car.

So it looks like the best option is still a TII swap. Should I do the tranny as well (mines rebuilt with a racing beat clutch and flywheel.), don't plan on running more than stock boost.

 

despite what people say i never broke my NA trans... or diff, or axles... i didnt drive really aggressive then so idk if that is credible.

however so far i've had pretty good luck with the TurboII drivetrain. (knock on wood)
i did kill off a clutch, and break a tranny, but they lasted longer than i expected... i did manage to break an axle doing tandom donuts at Forrests shop around a water barrel in first gear, on belted tires which i though was hillarious. but thankfully it broke there, and not the bank at irwindale... that would've been a bad day.

 

I tore a driveshaft in half, and snapped an axle while I was NA. **** seemed pretty weak.