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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 08:48 AM
  #776  
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
If you match the red dot on the tire (point of highest RFV) to the white dot on the wheel (lowest point of the wheel, usually where they put the valve stem) you will usually get a decently balanced wheel that doesn't vibrate at speed.
thats what those dots are for... hmm learned something new.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 09:47 AM
  #777  
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
If you match the red dot on the tire (point of highest RFV) to the white dot on the wheel (lowest point of the wheel, usually where they put the valve stem) you will usually get a decently balanced wheel that doesn't vibrate at speed.
THIS, is very true! actually that's what we do at the track on all the new falkens that get mounted.
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Old Dec 30, 2010 | 02:09 PM
  #778  
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JTP, I went ahead and ordered some 10mm spacers for the fronts. I am running a 17x8 +22 up front on 205/45 Federals (which I heard is more like 215s.) I should be able to install everything, but I'll let you know if I have any questions. Thanks for all your help!
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Old Dec 31, 2010 | 05:05 AM
  #779  
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yea 45 is balloon status
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Old Jan 1, 2011 | 12:39 PM
  #780  
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Haha, I'll remember that for next time.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 03:57 AM
  #781  
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30 series **** is hard to find... i do want to try out a 17/18 stagger, or maybe 18/19 with powersteering to see if anything feels better.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 12:00 PM
  #782  
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So when I switch next time to a 205/40 17, should I bump up the width to a 215 to get the same wheel gap? Although, I ordered JTPs tie rods and 10 mm spacers. And will be putting those on, along with re-adjusting my camber. Right now I'm as far as I can go using the the one screw holes, and it's at -1.7 degrees. So once I move them to the other set (pic attached) then I should be able to get alot more negative camber to fit the tire in.

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 01:30 PM
  #783  
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Yeah you can get away with only 2 Allen bolts though. The nice thing about camber plates is you can just slide it back to a normal amount of camber for the street.

Last edited by Turbo II Rotor; Jan 5, 2011 at 01:35 PM.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:13 PM
  #784  
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^^^ Really???!!! I'v been trying to get sum more camber out of the fronts...
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #785  
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Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor
Yeah you can get away with only 2 Allen bolts though. The nice thing about camber plates is you can just slide it back to a normal amount of camber for the street.
Aww! Good Idea, I bet you get some serious camber if you just had the last two bolts all the way back. Although, then the plates would only be like half way on the pillow ball mounts, that can't be that safe?
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:00 PM
  #786  
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generally the center/pillow ball will bottom out in the slot before you can run that much camber to only be able to utilize 2 allen's. if you notch out the center only, then yes i could see only 2 still threading in, but if you notch the center, you might as well do the side allen slots also. only 2 would be sketchy.


Since we're talking about camber, and all;
when i borrowed my friends JIC's and ran them on my FC, i noticed my car would bind during angle, and AT LOCK, when turned either direction with max negative camber on the plates... it sucked, steering was hard as hell (now i think i know why everyone trips on not having PSteering) it was all around just shitty... i threw the plates back to center and the car was fine again.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:19 PM
  #787  
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Lol ya, I don't have ps and I don't mean to sound like a girl or anything, but when sliding I always end up breaking a nail or two, lol (on my thumb and pointer finger, from grabbing the wheel when its spinning). It's really tough with my set up, and am kind of excited to have my ps back.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:30 PM
  #788  
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i might try to throw it on, but when my camber is centered the car feels just like a factory steering car even with the heavy 18's, and power rack..
if i had a 330mm wheel there would be no way, because i do remember having that setup and it did suck.
350mm all day.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #789  
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^ ******* diva


when you put heim tie rods on, then it will be smoother

also you can get more camber without touching the pillowball top mount...

slot the top hole of the lower mount( connects to the spindle) and move the spindle towards the monotube... then shave off the lil nubs on both sides of the spindle where it goes inside the coilover's lower mount

this is usefull when you get crazy angle but you need spacers or lower offsets and negative camber too
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:37 PM
  #790  
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I get goose bumps like im doing something illegal looking at these pics. I think some pee just shot out. Dangit! Hold on, I need to go clean up.....
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #791  
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Originally Posted by Zenki FC3S
^ ******* diva

this is usefull when you get crazy angle but you need spacers or lower offsets and negative camber too
Ya ya, I know!

So would 17x8 +22 w/ 10mm be enough for this?
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 05:42 PM
  #792  
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don't run just two bolts.. you can get around 3deg neg camber with running all 4 bolts.. that should be fine until you get spindles.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:03 PM
  #793  
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Originally Posted by Tyler [S5 FC]
Ya ya, I know!

So would 17x8 +22 w/ 10mm be enough for this?
Are you running just rod spacers and ends? You shouldn't hit with the +22 either. But the spacer will make it look nice. What spacer are you getting?
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:09 PM
  #794  
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Ebay special. Although, the quality on them is really good, I was very impressed. Just got em yesterday. Take into account I don't know **** tho.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HUBCE...Q5fAccessories

"They are all hubcentric wheel spacers and perfect fit into your wheel hub without any gap so that you will not get any vibration!"

^ This is true.

Originally Posted by J.T.P.
don't run just two bolts.. you can get around 3deg neg camber with running all 4 bolts.. that should be fine until you get spindles.
This was my plan anyways... I really don't like the whole super negative camber look.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:21 PM
  #795  
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Originally Posted by Tyler [S5 FC]
Ebay special. Although, the quality on them is really good, I was very impressed. Just got em yesterday. Take into account I don't know **** tho.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HUBCE...Q5fAccessories

"They are all hubcentric wheel spacers and perfect fit into your wheel hub without any gap so that you will not get any vibration!"

^ This is true.



This was my plan anyways... I really don't like the whole super negative camber look.
Did you need to modify the stock studs? IE cutting.

And you want negative camber, like -3 or -4 so when you counter-steer you have a more contact patch.
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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 06:49 PM
  #796  
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Nope, came with extended studs

Oh ya, I understand that, I'm just talking about the people who go way beyond that....

like this


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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 10:07 PM
  #797  
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11's up front.. yes

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Old Jan 5, 2011 | 11:28 PM
  #798  
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Originally Posted by Tyler [S5 FC]
Nope, came with extended studs
So you changed the studs all together? Could those studs be used without spacers?

@JTP:
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 12:11 AM
  #799  
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sick booth...


prolly around $30,000


nice car too. why you rockin TE's???
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Old Jan 6, 2011 | 02:03 AM
  #800  
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paint booth is my sponsor's.. Sam's Auto Land.. painted my car kandy green twice and this color.. money green from ppg

TE's? who's rockin TE's?
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