1000 HP 20B Street Car Project
BTW, the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette's 32-valve DOHC 350 CID LT5 was technically a small block, but was roughly the size of a big block and weighed several tons as a result. 
The LT5 is not considered part of the SBC line mainly because of the overhead cam configuration.

The LT5 is not considered part of the SBC line mainly because of the overhead cam configuration.
Originally Posted by jimlab
BTW, the 1990-1995 ZR1 Corvette's 32-valve DOHC 350 CID LT5 was technically a small block, but was roughly the size of a big block and weighed several tons as a result. 
The LT5 is not considered part of the SBC line mainly because of the overhead cam configuration.

The LT5 is not considered part of the SBC line mainly because of the overhead cam configuration.
i thought that was the original idea then it was scrapped in favor of lotus completely redesigning it
As soon as i have it all done and re-mapped then i will be able to give you exact temp figs as it will all be set up to monitor the temps. I will also post pics etc. Good luck with the FD it's the Dogs Nuts.
The only reason i stayed away from sry sump setup is i was told to do it correctly i need a 3 gallon oil reserve tank which i would have little or no room for. Still considering it though. As far as mounting the engine lower, the steering rack is already right up against the oil pan flange and the engine could only be lowered by lowering ther steering rack even more which makes the bumpsteer issue even worse.
I'd say go with a dry sump setup if at all possible. The benefit is that if you do indeed autox the car, going through a hard corner will still make the oil slosh to one side of the oil pan, but you have constant feed to the oil pump anyway thanks to your reserve tank and pump, so you don't starve for oil, especially at high RPM's. Just my $.02, FWIW
Originally Posted by Falcoms
I'd say go with a dry sump setup if at all possible. The benefit is that if you do indeed autox the car, going through a hard corner will still make the oil slosh to one side of the oil pan, but you have constant feed to the oil pump anyway thanks to your reserve tank and pump, so you don't starve for oil, especially at high RPM's.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html
It delivers pressurized oil on demand, in the event that the oil pump pickup runs dry. The fringe benefit is that you can get a valve to store pressurized oil after shutoff. When you head out to start the car, release the valve (manually or electrically) and it pre-lubes the engine before startup, reducing wear.
Originally Posted by jimlab
Just get an oil accumulator.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html
It delivers pressurized oil on demand, in the event that the oil pump pickup runs dry. The fringe benefit is that you can get a valve to store pressurized oil after shutoff. When you head out to start the car, release the valve (manually or electrically) and it pre-lubes the engine before startup, reducing wear.
http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_units.html
It delivers pressurized oil on demand, in the event that the oil pump pickup runs dry. The fringe benefit is that you can get a valve to store pressurized oil after shutoff. When you head out to start the car, release the valve (manually or electrically) and it pre-lubes the engine before startup, reducing wear.
Originally Posted by Auto Illusions
Here is a picture of the ford 8.8 rear end...
I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!
The rear end is built with Ford Motorsport 4:30 cryo treated gears, Mark Williams billet bearing caps and yoke, Timken bearings, Eaton posi to fit 31 Spline half shafts with 800 pound posi springs and plate kit!
As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!


I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!
The rear end is built with Ford Motorsport 4:30 cryo treated gears, Mark Williams billet bearing caps and yoke, Timken bearings, Eaton posi to fit 31 Spline half shafts with 800 pound posi springs and plate kit!
As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
I have a dry sump setup on my 20b.
Much more complicated than a custom pan and much, much more expensive.
I was only able to lower the engine 1-1/2" and that was in an fc.
You do not need a 3 gallon tank to use a dry sump setup.
The resorvoir can be as big or small (within reason) as you want it really.
There is really no need for such a setup unless you plan to roadrace the car as there are other sufficient and much cheaper/easier ways to solve the problem.
Much more complicated than a custom pan and much, much more expensive.
I was only able to lower the engine 1-1/2" and that was in an fc.
You do not need a 3 gallon tank to use a dry sump setup.
The resorvoir can be as big or small (within reason) as you want it really.
There is really no need for such a setup unless you plan to roadrace the car as there are other sufficient and much cheaper/easier ways to solve the problem.
Originally Posted by jimlab
A dry sump setup is far more complicated and expensive than a custom pan, and you can't lower the engine significantly either way without having to move the steering rack an equivalent amount. If you did lower the engine, what would you do with the rest of the drivetrain?
How far is the streering rack from the bottom of the engine? I thought it was the oil pan that hit the steering rack.....with no oil pan wouldnt that give you some extra room? A couple inches would probably be enough.
You are right though, it would be more expensive, but this project doesnt seem to have very strict budget constraints.....sounds like someone elses project I know of haha
Last edited by SPOautos; Jan 17, 2005 at 11:50 PM.
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco, CA
I've recieved several pm's about the dry sump setup. I had a thread about it awhile back. I'll give you all the link.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/its-finally-here-152113/
Some good pics and info about it in there if I remember correctly, but I did not look at it all again.
It may have been 1-5/8" lower. I cannot rember what it ended up being exactly, but not much more really. The steering rack is in the way. There is no oil pan, but I had a 3/4" cnc'd alum sheer plate in the way instead. However I also notched that out to clear the rack mount to get it even lower.
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/its-finally-here-152113/
Some good pics and info about it in there if I remember correctly, but I did not look at it all again.
It may have been 1-5/8" lower. I cannot rember what it ended up being exactly, but not much more really. The steering rack is in the way. There is no oil pan, but I had a 3/4" cnc'd alum sheer plate in the way instead. However I also notched that out to clear the rack mount to get it even lower.
Working on custom trans spacer. 2-3 weeks and i will put the motor in the car with the new subframe. Will post pictures then. I have not worked on it for 6 months. Just got the transmission in from Liberty. I don't think they have more than one young child building the transmissions as it took 8 months from the time of order! (it does look good though and other than the time frame, i can not complain)
Pics will be limited for now. I have been so busy i havn't had time to work on the car for the past 4-6 months. I did pick up another 20B this weekend as a spare. I will be using it for the rest of the test fitments as to not scratch the good motor.
Any one interested in the custom oil pan i had made? I am going to run the 13B front cover and need to make a new oil pan.
Any one interested in the custom oil pan i had made? I am going to run the 13B front cover and need to make a new oil pan.





