So, i give up.....What is that part for?

 

I would've just made you the chromoly subframe for a real good price, especially since I have one sitting here

 

 

Well if it works i could use a set as well...
Interested in sharing the drawing?
I have the same headlights and they fit like crap with the chinsy brackets they send with them!

I have the original RE-Amemiya headlight kit although there is a newer model out now with different lights...

Man does the kit fit like the worst $1700 i have ever spent!

I would try the knock off version if i had known then what i know now!

 

I would say horrible! brrrr

 

The parts shown I made myself.





I haven't had anything made by emachineshop.com yet, so I'm going to start with something simpler/cheaper to test the water, so to speak. Estimated cost on the brackets above is $199/ea. in quantity of 1. Price goes down with higher quantities, of course.

My plan is to eventually sell a complete kit, and now that I have the Cobra IRS wrapped up, that's probably my next big project.

The knock off is even worse.

 

Body parts are in but i had to get a $45 bond for what ever i don't know and hire a company to write the paper work before i can pick it up....
All in all it cost me almost $300 with taxes, duties, paper work and fees!

I will be picking them up tommorow at the local airport unless they decide to strip search the parts for whatever!

Wish me luck! (i never want to import anything this big again)

 

Jimlab & Auto Illusions, I want your shop(s).

Good luck with the body parts.

 

Still in customs for the weekend...

I am hoping they will be released by Monday!

 

Damn dude, i'd be tempted to drive to your shop next summer (i'm up in the UP of Michigan at school) to check it out, an 8 hour drive to see that beast and all the work you've done to it? well worth it. Kudos and keep on updating your progress.

 

Got the parts in and all i can say is if you want to buy a hood, pay for an original because it fits as good as stock.......NO LIE!

The mazda speed wing is equally as impressive.....

I am ok with the fitment on the SexyStyle parts but you can tell they are of a cheaper quality than the RE-Amemiya and MazdaSpeed....

Although the build quality is fine, the fittment is a little off but nothing that can't be fixed..

I have pictures and just need to download them....(Tommorrow)

 

Here is some pics of the body parts installed!

 

Here is a picture of the ford 8.8 rear end...
I used the t-bird 8.8 IRS because it is stronger than the aluminum cobra diff housing!

The rear end is built with Ford Motorsport 4:30 cryo treated gears, Mark Williams billet bearing caps and yoke, Timken bearings, Eaton posi to fit 31 Spline half shafts with 800 pound posi springs and plate kit!

As soon as my engine cradle is completed i will be working on a full replacement Chromoly rear sub frame to hold the ford IRS Diff!

 

I've never heard of anyone breaking the front of an aluminum housing, but it's possible the cast iron housing is stronger. It's also significantly heavier.

Does that mean you don't want one of mine? Er, mine!

 

I gotta stop by your shop some time to check this thing out. I only live about 1.5 hours away in the slowly rusting away city of Johnstown :-) . I'll wait for the tram and tour guide to pick me up in the shop parking lot.

 

I will try it my way first but if time runs out i will be giving you a call...

 

Well, it is 3:30 am and i am ready to go home..... The sub frame is tacked together and in the car!

I still have to make some alignment tabs, a steering mount and the motor plates!
Hopefully tommorrow i can find the time to finish them and test fit the motor!

Here is a couple of pictures of the subframe for now! This is the first proto-type which i am going to sell really cheap when it is finished if any one is interested!

This one is all hand cut however I have drawn all of the pieces in Auto Cad so the next set will be laser cut!

I am considering making a few of these to sell as i mentioned earlier if any one is interested!

 

I have decided to run a liquid to air intercooler with a 4" in and out and 8" diameter barrel style intercooler. I will run a full size front mount heat exchanger filling up the entire opening with twin oil coolers on each side to match! All from PWR-performance!

This set up will have less pressure drop, cooler air charge and give the ability to run a tank to pack with ice for drag racing!

An air to air intercooler is pretty much useless with out spraying the heck out of it for drag racing since it doesn't get any air until half track which doesn't start to take effect on cooling the air charge until the race is over!

I had planned on spraying the Intercooler with the NX intercooler spray kit but will be finding a better use for the extra 12 lb carbon fiber bottle!

Since i will no longer need an intercooler spray, i am going to use my extra bottle for a first stage nitrous system to help spool the rather large turbo!

I doubt i will use the second stage multi port nitrous kit but it will be installed just in case the HP figures are not as planned! (Also because it looks cool!)

 

question about subframe.. did you design to correct bump steer problems??

 

Second question about subframe... are you adding tabs for confining the eccentric bolts for alignment?

Third and fourth questions about subframe... it looks like you recreated the stock sway bar mounts, unless those are sand blasted originals. Are you sure the sway bar will clear the bends in the lateral tubes (looks tight), and were you planning on boxing in the sway bar mounts to increase their strength? Just curious, because they're a well-known failure point and I would not have used the originals or used them as a model. I'm using billet aluminum mounts myself.

BTW, why do you end every sentence with an exclamation mark!

 

The alignment tabs, AKA 1/4" key-way stock is on its way!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The sway bar mounts are stock and yes the sway bar clears but i am not sure if the steering rack boots will clear yet without notching the pipe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I considered making a new set of sway bar mounts but for now i am using the stock for test fitting purposes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think tying them together and to the frame will help out a lot!!!!!!!!!!!

Actually after looking at the sway bar mounts, i am not sure what would be the best way to make them stronger other than simply making a replica set out of thicker chromoly without the holes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(although i have been told that they are a week point)

I never put any thought into it but i agree that i punctuate way too much!!!!!!!!!!
LOL (how do i get a smily face to appear after a sentance?)

 

Once the car is on the groung, i will be working on the bump steer correction.

I believe it will be the same as everyones........When you lower the rack you have to lower the tie rod mounting points^

 

":" + ")" =

":" + "D" =

":" + "(" =

";" + ")" =

Or, just click on the smiley faces to the right of the text box when writing a reply.

 

Wow, I just spent like 30 minutes reading this thread. Keep up the amazing work man! I can't wait to do this when I get out of law school and have some extra income...

 

Piano,

FYI, I recently try to pick up a 20B and there isn't one available in USA less than 3K.. I literally called every importers in US.. I lucked out and just picked one up from a guy in Miami.. It should get here this sunday..

it seems like if you don't jump on one now, its harder and harder to find one..
Even couple of my sources in Japan told me that they are rare item..