Here is a real 3-d model of the intake manifold that i designed and hopefully soon to be cut and welded together so i can get this project going again. The injectors and nitrous are rough just to show placement in the 3-d model.

Special thanks to Brendan Z for the hard work finishing the drawings and turning my ideas and measurements into reality!

 

Damn man. This project is like Days of our Lives. When is it going to end?

I can host all of your stuff and fix your domain issues. I just don't do Salvation Army anymore.

 

Wow, looks great.

 

Wouldn't you want the injectors closer to where the runners enter the ports? Based on my limited knowledge that is what I thought. This post (my first) isn't meant to bash, just to get correct info for me.

 

the six top injectors won't come in until under boost and above 3000 rpm where there is sufficient air flow to pull the fuel down the intake runners. Similar to the stock setup. Injectors mounted farther up the runner allows for a better mixture of air and fuel going into the combustion chamber.

The 3-primary injectors are still in the engine as a direct port near the rotor.

 

Ahh, gotcha. Thanks for the clarification.

 

Are there any 3-rotor guys still around interested in the BEST money can buy?

Special Thanks to Rohan from Extreme Rotaries for building this beast. Here is a few pictures of what it all started out as. All built straight form the Mazda catalog with not a single used item!

(pictures are from Rohan at his shop in Australlia)

2nd gen low comp rotors (lightened & milled by X-treme rotaries)
cosmo irons (large ports)
3rd gen housings
3rd gen front cover (for magnetic pickups / NO Distributor)
NRS 3mm ceramic seals
X-treme rotaries stud kit
X-treme rotaries 2-piece ecentric shaft

Entire block was checked for in-line main bearings and drilled straight through to accept 20B X-treme rotaries stud kit

 

Very Nice! Looks Similar to what Rohan will end up doing for me. Except I will use his PP housings.

 

NRS 3mm Ceramic Seals (for anyone that want to make huge reliable power)

X-treme Rotaries custom lightened low comp rotors grooved to accept the NRS 3mm ceramic seals

picture of the X-treme Rotaries 2-piece 20B eccentric shaft after it got the optional X-treme finishing touches

 

What do you mean by this?

 

It's more project than he has the attention span for.

 

Who is Xtreme Rotaries? Never heard of them.

 

http://www.xtremerotaries.com/

also known as Guru Racing Motorsports

 

is that e-shaft the one with the optional extra center bearing?

 

no, just the stock center bearing setup.

 

why, may i ask, since this is an all-out, budget be damned project, did you choose to go with the factory center bearing setup? It sounds like you want this 20b to rev to the heavens, based on the lightened rotating assembly and everything, but you decided to not go with the extra support of the upgraded center bearing. I'm curious why you decided to go this route.

 

I am not sure that you need the extra center bearing for what i want to accomplish.

I would hope that the stronger eccentric shaft will solve any problems and the lightened rotors can't do anything but help relieve stress on the main shaft.

Besides, the 4-rotor Mazda uses only has one center bearing and revs way past 10,000

I will not be reving the motor to the heavens since i am using forced air. 9,000 + or - a few hundred would be sufficient to make the power goals and sound real nice too.

One of the things i was dead set against was running a peripheral port motor.
I would be forced to if i were to run two thick intermediates for the extra center bearing.

 

i was not aware that you had to run two thick center sections to run the second center bearing. Did you ever post what turbo you ended up deciding on?

 

Innovative GTB 88

 

The 20B is a very very different engine from a 13B. Just when you think everything has been figured out, there is a million more things to learn. Some of them the hard way. The center bearing is costly, and for the port work Auto Illusions has done, it is possibly more reliable and cheaper NOT to have a center bearing. Simply due to the fact it will not need to rev over 8.5k-9k to make his power output goal. Dont worry, just because you CAN afford it, doesnt mean you have to buy it.

 

Any updates?

 

A few but for lack of interest and time on my part, i am going to wait and post a bunch in a month or two.

 

hey dude its been a while, anything new?

 

Very nice work...

I am curious what measures you took to ensure proper driveshaft operation angle?

When fabricating the subframe, did you opt to keep the pinion as close to inline or exactly in line with the output shaft of the transmission?

What about centerline alignment of the output of the differential to the hub? Did you keep this at factory location? Make sense?

Also what style Differential did you use? Mark Williams sells two different kinds, and to me, they look the same, except there is about a $300 price difference between the two posi units. Did you also have to machine anything down to get those billet main caps to fit?

 

Has this project died?
It has been like 3 years from the beginning and also the links of www.Auto-Illusions.com don't work anymore.

-Fanis