Hollow sway bar tube slides through the chromoly sub frame with graphite bushings installed.

 

Thats what I figured.

 

If anyone is interested, I will go ahead and post my newest part i fabed up tonight or should i say this morning. 12+ hours later and here it is!

Made completely from chromoly.

I had to notch the bottom for the 4" exhaust.

I welded 1/8" chromoly plate into the floor on the top side for strength.

The curved piece is a heat shield for the trans mount near the exhaust!

Now i have to find the right size bolts!

 

Right through the floor? The reason I ask is because someone did the same thing with a Buick GN conversion and had... issues. Did you or will you reinforce the floor pan in the area which the transmission mount bolts to?

Very nice work, as always.

 

I used metal fuser to install 1/8" chromoly plate to the floor boards and welded the edges along tight to the 2-channels in the floor. I think it will be strong enough!

Pictures of both sides. Their is only one bolt in each side as of now, i have to drill the second hole and tack the bolts in to they do not spin under the carpeting when installing or removing trans crossmember!

 

How about it, i almost finished up the differential mounts! The only thing left is weld the second rear square mount but i am waiting on a differential brace to come in from Steeda. If it is to large, i will end up not using it anyway but need it for the spacing before welding the second brace.

I still have to add a brace or two to go from the subframe to extra mounting points on the body similar to 95 up subframes.

 

Here is a couple pics of the rear subframe and differential in the car.

Hopefully finish up the subframe mounts tommorrow night and pray that diff brace and urethane bushings arrive. Also waiting for stainless to start the new header and exhaust.

Jim, hurry up with the headlight kit. I am trying to get this thing on the road in 3-4 months!

 

Very nice work. I've been debating on whether to do the same myself or just use the stock mounting points for the trans tunnel crossbrace like Hinson did.

One thing I'd probably do with the brace hanging down below the floor pan is make the front "wedge" shaped, sloping up to the floor pan (sort of like a skid plate). If you ever catch it on anything, hopefully you'll go up and over instead of tearing it loose or buckling the floor pan. That may not be an issue with a purpose-built drag car, but for a street car, you never know.

 

They're working on the fiberglass right now.

BTW, add a drain plug to your differential while you still have the chance. The "approved" method of changing the fluid in the 8.8" is to separate the back cover from the differential. I will probably just use my Griot's oil extractor and make some sort of "hook" shaped tube to fit in through the fill hole to get to the bottom of the housing or just buy this, because my diff sure as hell isn't coming back out of my car again.

 

Well, its done except for the steeda diff brace did not show up yet. I think it is lost and will have to track it.

Here is the final modifications to the rear subframe to hold the 8.8 ford diff. I added the brace similar to 95 models except continued it forward and strengthened the corner of the floor for an extra mounting point. Along with a couple of other braces, i believe it is now officially over enginered! Ready for some hard launches to put it through the real test!

 

Guess what come in today?

What do you think i'll be doing for the next week?

 

Nice work! Where did you get the bends from?

 

Not sure where he got his, but you can get bends from Mcmaster Carr, ATP Turbo, and various other places. Try searching on google, and you can find all kinds of places that sell bends.

-Alex

 

I admire your welding craftsmenship. Nice work.

This just makes me want to do a custom rearend too.

 

Burns Stainless but there are cheaper places out there. I used them because they stock the 321 stainless.

www.spdexhaust.com is another good one!

 

Wow, that's an impressive set of monkey bars.



BTW, your aluminum brace is upside down.

 

Really, upside down? Its getting replaced with chromoly tube anyway. I need it to be higher for 3" exhaust clearance! Just through it in for the picture.

Thanks for the diff drain tip. I never would have thought of that but makes complete sense. I an going to drill and tap it out for a drain plug before installing it for the final.

 

Yep. The arches should be facing down instead of up, and one end is marked "R" or "Right" to show correct orientation.

Don't worry, I threw my suspension arms on my rear subframe when it was off my car for a quick mock-up and someone pointed out that I had the upper control arms upside down. It's the same distance from inner to outer bushing, it just wouldn't have worked on the car.

 

Guys,
I've been following this thread with great interest and admire all of the work Auto Illusions has put into this project; truly first rate.

I also wanted to let you all know that Flaco Racing (Abel Ibarra) has now opened up the Flaco Racing shop for high-end performance work to the public. The shop can handle custom rotary and turbo set-ups... again, high-end stuff.

Abel is actually in the process of building a 1000hp 20B street FD for Mike over at G-Force transmissions. This car, interestingly enough, is using a Flaco Racing modified (totally reworked) OEM 20B manifold.

Auto Illusions if you or anyone would like some high-end rotary or turbo work done by Flaco Racing, just PM or e-mail me.

-Bern
brhslm@earthlink.net


Auto Illusions, the original intake manifold you got done was not the same as Abel's piece, and from my understanding, was not done by the same gentlemen, or if it was, it's a different set-up. Abel has spent countless hours of R&D on his current manifold set-up, and is not ready to offer this piece out yet. see pics...




Mike's (G-Force Trannys) 20B FD

 

A few pics of Abel's brother Chato's 800+hp 13B FD. This 13B is close to the set-up Abel used to run in his FD, with updates to turbo and a few other technological updates.... The FD is basically set-up as an NHRA Modified class car, but with full show details. Including leather and suede interior.... this car has only been seen once in public and hopefully should be getting some magazine work soon.





sorry for blanking manifold, Flaco Racing didn't want this experiment shown yet.



Again Auto Illusions, great work and effort on your ride, truly outstanding!

Looking forward to updates!


-Bern
brhslm@earthlink.net

 

Still not allowed to see huh!

 

Thats the most amazing looking swaybar I have ever seen
And your tranny mount too is beautiful.
You have some great fabricating skills and your car is going to be amazing

-Ben Martin

 

Hey man, cant find anywhere where that Diff is from? Will you tell me? I'm in the middle of my own 20B-project but in an FC and don't know what differential to use... My gearbox has 1:1 on 5th...

 

Thanks, i just hope it is running real soon!

I found out shortly after. I was basically lied to and misled as much as one could be with that instance as well as a number of others!

 

I see what he did! He cut open the UIM and removed the internal runners so that all 6 are exposed evenly in the manifold. I saw someone else on this forum do the same thing but can't remember who it was. Hell I want the manifold that he uses for the drag car.