I picked up my engine today, all I can say is that I have had a bigassshiteatinggrin all day Now if I can only get it to run I think just the loading of it into my truck is an ominous sign of things to come; it barely fit.

 

Here it is out of the truck on the hoist. you can see the dry sump frony cover and part of the sump plate. Thats my buddy Mark (GNX7).

 

Here is a shot from the bottom showing the sump plate.

 

And another of the sump plate

 

Hang on there Mark that three rotor might buck ya!

 

Hang on....again

 

Here is the bucket it's going into. 10th Anniversery Edition.

 

Side view

 

Another view

 

Close up of dry sump front cover. Apparently this is not the MazdaComp unit, but a US company that I'm told is less expensive and better (go figure). Internal gear driven oil pump. Will be running remote oil filters and dual oil coolers, one under each headlight. Should help keep this pig cool

 

Intake/exhaust ports. New 13Brew housings

 

And one of my shiny diff for the hell of it

 

I am so jealous of you right now! :p

That engine looks awesome!

 

I've seen the engine first hand it is truly a work of art and Rx-Heven had a huge sh*teating grin on his face you couldn't erase if you kicked him in the nutz the whole time I was there. Beautiful porting work and externally it looks like the sh*t..... I'm sure internally it is even better. Dry sump setup hmmmmmmmmmm .

Time to get your butt in gear Dave and get that car closer on the road to being done. You have the knowledge and the drive..... don't lose your focus. Turbo, downpipe, and fuel system recommendations I'll be more than happy to offer my assistance with.
T-66BB/T-70BB.... instaspool with that big 20B?

We've got a contender here.....

-GNX7

 

who ported/built the motor for you and what did everything, or at least the dry sump system cost you?

BTW its beautiful. its always been my dream to have a 20B 10th AE.

 

Pineaplle Racing built the motor.
-Rebuilt w/all new seals etc. to his 5 yr warranty specs
-3mm ceramic apex seals
-Large street port
-Stage 3 oil mods
-New 13brew housings (new housings are standard with his rebuilds)
-Polished rotor housings
-Dry sump w/ custom sump plate
-Ceramic coating
If you really want to know the cost, see his price list and multiply most everything except dry sump system by 1.5.
All I will say is it was not cheap.

 

wow dave that looks good , if you guys need any help dr ho and i can provide our services

mike

 

just to let ya know, your motor was in my dream last night... only it was my motor

 

It looks good man. One question... why did you go with ceramic seals?

 

rx-heven,
you put so much money into that motor, aren't you scared of what might happen if you blow the motor?

 

Kurgan, I went with ceramics beacause of all the benefits they have over steel 2mm and 3mm. Increased strength, lighter to reduce floating and 'chatter', decreased (almost negligable) wear factor on the seals and rotor housings, more power with all else being equal.
fdracer, yes, yes, yes. The plan is not to blow it up. I won't be running tons of boost and I will have someone, perhaps SR motorsports (looking at the tec-3 at this point) due the tuning for me or at least someone that knows what the hell they are doing when it comes to tuning, which is certainly not me.

Jury, I got mine, where is yours? I know it's eating you up, so just go and buy one already. SELL ALL OF THAT CRAP THAT IS ROTTING AWAY

 

omfg that is disgusting.
looks like an amazing engine


you have any more info about the dry sump?

 

whose gonna make your intake/exhaust manifolds?

 

The thing about the ceramics is that they don't seal nearly as well at the lower revs as the 2mm do. Nothing beats the 2mm stock seals for their sealing power... Plus, ceramics are typically used in high revving NA motors... not boosted "low revving" motors. Do you have a solid eccentric shaft or are you using the stock one... If you have the stock eccentric shaft, can't rev it over 8500 MAX... and that's where the ceramics come into their place in this world... high revs.

 

Kurgan, I agree with you on everything but one point. Ceramics would be beneficial throughout the entire rpm range. Yes 2mm seals better at low revs, but ceramics (could've gone 2mm ceramic) still wear less on the engine and provide more power, not just at very high revs. The benefits far outweigh the drawbacks. The only two drawbacks being 2mm (steel and ceramic) seal better down low, and ceramics are pricey). Ceramics are much lighter, stronger, smoother than their steel counterparts. A no brainer if you ask me. This car will be seeing lots of track time (road race) which will put me in the upper rpm range, but nowwhere near 8500. There is absolutely no reason why a turbo engine maxing out at say 7000 would not benefit from ceramics. I still have the stock e-shaft, and rob has assured me that many other things would fail before the e-shaft, especially since it has the radiused corners unlike the earlier e-shafts.