Interesting...Is it possible just to make a 3-rotor by just adding the proper housings or would that not be possible because of eccentric shaft fitment?

 

The engine bolts, intake mainifold, ehaust turbo manifold, fuel rails, oil pan, counter weight, eccentric shaft and the iron housing between the first and second rotor are just a few things off of the top of my head thaty you would need to buy in order to add a rotor to a 1.3 to make it a 20B.

I would say you would be better buying a whole motor as it would be hard to find some of these parts used and way to much to buy them new.

 

Amazing project. This has got to be the ultimate build up progress thread for an fd. Definately bookmarking it.

 

Auto Illusion is correct.. i thought similar to what you were thinking.. Just getting the eshaft and one "special" plate and I could build it all.. But the thing is that, you would spend as much money or more custom building it (ie porting, custom pins, etc) than buying a 20b.. hence, I just went ahead and bought it now..

 

Well, I don't know about that...

 

Jim, i am not trying to take your rightful position as the ultimate FD build up but i think people like to see a rotary in a mazda

 

Jim,

So, how is your car coming along?? Are you still making the rearends?? I might have to get one of those..

 

Here is a pic of the sub-frame installed


And one of the ford 8.8 in place but not mounted

 

I was just referring to my thread being a little bigger.

Coming along slowly, as usual.

I've got a second group buy open, but I don't know if it'll go through. I've got a very questionable maybe and probably two others I could count on so far, and it's not worth doing for just a couple people with all the traveling I have to do and all the other hassles, not to mention the fact that I only made $100 or so on the last one.

 

Jim, How many people do you need?? and what was the cost?? I might be able to convince few down here..

 

The cost goes down as volume increases because the bracket components can be water jet cut instead of cut by hand. 5 or more would be ideal.

The pricing is in the thread in the group buy forum.

 

I do fear that when i'm ready to buy my motor, it might be alot harder to find. I hope to be able to buy the motor this summer. It can't be that hard to find. But that's because I can import them through my friends company. So far we've gotten an R32 imported. We already had an R33. The next car that we are bringing over is a Silvia S15. We're packing SR20DET engines into the crate being shipped from Japan. Hopefully I will have first dibs on a low mileage 20b. I'll let you guys know if I find some.

 

Auto Illusions, why did you go through the hassle of making a custom oil pan and subframe combo yet still have to deal with the bumpsteer issue. I thought the bulge on the front of the oil pan is what causes all the problems. RedRX7's car eliminated the bulge by redesigning the pickup tube and flattening out the oil pan up front...no bumpsteer and was still able to use the stock subframe (not forgetting the rear plate btw).
Just wondering.

 

That's the route i'm taking.. Making a custom oil pan and putting the 13b-rew rear plate..

I'm also wondering why you did both oil pan and subframe?? Is there an issue with going with stock fd subframe?? I have to rebuild my engine so, i figure I do the FD subframe and avoid all the bump steer issue. I've also heard something about shortening the intake manifold?? which I could get done... Someone please fill me in a little.. so that I could be reassured.

Jim, Thanks for the info.. I'll see if I could get couple of guys here in the south.. I'm few months back from getting one.. but definitely interested.

Drag'nGT, I see that you are in GA.. let me know if you do get 20b.. I know my builder is interested in one and a guy in OH..

 

I don't think any one could match the size of your thread, in fact the rx7club is probably going to have to get a bigger server by the time your car is completed to host a thread that size.

(look, no !)

 

If you look at a stock 13b installed and draw a line from the bottom of the engine where the oil pan bolts on, straight forward, you will notice that is goes through the steering rack. (the steering rack is actually in front of the engine, not below it)

The way i see it (and i could be wrong), the only way you can install the 20b without dropping the steering rack down is by lifting the engine up.

The dip in the stock 20b oil pan is no more than 1/4" away from the bottom of the engine which is no different than my custom oil pan. You still have to lower the steering rack or raise the motor. I have not seen nor tried to install a 20b with the 13b rear housing but am very curious as to how it is done without changing the position of the steering rack..

I think if you raise the motor a little and drop the steering rack a little to compromise, the bump steer would be hardly noticable.

The reason I made a custom oil pan
#1 larger oil capacity
#2 thick 1/4" flange with x-pattern to stiffen up entire assembly
#3 baffle using trap doors and interior walls for less sloshing
#4 looks really cool (show purposes)
#5 to be different and unique

Why i chose to make the chromoly sub frame
#1 Larger oil pan will not fit in small opening found on stock sub frame
#2 I am running a front mount starter which can not use 13b rear plate
#3 The new subframe will be stronger using chromoly tubing and plate
#4 looks really cool (show purposes)
#5 to be different and unique

 

I would say you would have to shorten the intake if you do not plan on lowering the steering rack or cutting a hole in the hood... a simple measurement will show that there is not enough room in between them without doing one or the other.

 

I know.. I need to measure that.. but trying to be lazy.. as my engine is in one city and my car is in my garage without an engine.

I'm going to go ahead and put my newly rebuilt 2 rotor back in and than get the 20b ready until time comes.. I'm guessing 2006.. hopefully earlier..

 

I'll see what clips I can find. If I find any I'm pretty sure I'm gonna want some sort of deposit before I go to the trouble of getting it here. I'll PM you with info if I'm able to get one/two.

 

I've never seen an oil pan at any show I've ever attended. But I like the larger pan and baffles though. Did it set you back much? More than $300?

 

Sounds good.. let me know when you find one.. Thanks man!

 

Part of a show car in my opinion is something unique and custom, not just clean and chrome.

 

if you display the car at a show correctly, w/ mirrors underneath the car, of coarse you can see the pan! but i understand why he did it....... why spend all this time and attention to detail on just the parts that are seen.... its the small details that make a car a show car! we may not see the pan, but judges do! and if you want to win trophys, thats what you have to do! (although i dont think he will have any problems winning trophys)...

i like the fact that this is a REAL streetable car... not a trailer queen.... all that time and $$$$$ should be put to its full potential... not for oohs and aawwws! keep up the great work... i only wish i have half the skill you do!! and patience! good luck w/ the project

 

vipers, thank you for the compliment.

Yes i will be driving the car but hopefully less than 1000 miles per year and never in bad weather.

I am sure you could do all the same if you had the facility.

 

Please send more pics of your car
It is a very nice car , I hope see it on the street some day
good luck with it