What did you do to your FB today?
Took her out for a spirited run today since the weather was fantastic. After about an hour and with no warning whatsoever, I totally lost my brakes! Brake pedal sank all the way to the floor with minimum resistance. Pumped the pedal a couple times and got some semblance of stopping power but it only lasted long enough to get me halfway back home. Crawled home in 1st and 2nd gear and had to use the hand brake in order to come to a complete and timely stop.
Brake fluid quality and level look good,brake lines are stainless steel braided (recent upgrade) and no leaks found anywhere😞 What do you guys think is the problem? Brake booster or master cylinder?
Brake fluid quality and level look good,brake lines are stainless steel braided (recent upgrade) and no leaks found anywhere😞 What do you guys think is the problem? Brake booster or master cylinder?
GSL-EV
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 450
Likes: 8
From: Rapid City, SD
Since your fluid levels are good there probably isn't much chance of having fluid in the passenger compartment. It is common for a Master Cylinder failure to allow fluid to run down the inside of the firewall and pool under the carpet. You want to clean this up and repair the paint if it has started to degrade. It takes a while on the primer Mazda used but eventually you will get bare and rusting metal and loose sheets of what used to be paint and primer.
Ready or not...
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Taos, NM
soft brakes, t_g_
I made myself nuts last year over not being able to get my brake pedal to have any force. Changed the Master cylinder, bleed, bleed, hunt for leaks, bleed, bleed more, cuss. I drove with weak brakes for months before the brake light came on.
Changed the rear break shoes and voila! In hindsight, I read the Hayne's trouble shooting section... it said to change the brake shoes for soft pedal. I had learned not to trust the Hayne's, but in this case they were right on. Maybe it's that simple for you.
Changed the rear break shoes and voila! In hindsight, I read the Hayne's trouble shooting section... it said to change the brake shoes for soft pedal. I had learned not to trust the Hayne's, but in this case they were right on. Maybe it's that simple for you.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 3
From: palmetto
Rebuilt and installed my yaw carb today, wow I am impressed by the performance.
Had been years since I had it on the car, I have been running the rb holley and got tired of it, now for a wideband and tune this nikki for all shes got.
Oh and fix a couple bugs in the nikki right now, like fuel pouring down the carb when I shut her off.
Seems like to much pressure, maybe I need to install my fpr on it again, we'll see
Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app
Had been years since I had it on the car, I have been running the rb holley and got tired of it, now for a wideband and tune this nikki for all shes got.
Oh and fix a couple bugs in the nikki right now, like fuel pouring down the carb when I shut her off.
Seems like to much pressure, maybe I need to install my fpr on it again, we'll see
Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app
A local guy is selling his Yaw. It has documentation. According to Mr Yaw, the fuel pressure should be set to 2¼ PSI. It might be a good place to start.
Link:
https://www.rx7club.com/nw-sale-want...nfold-1079981/
Pic:
Link:
https://www.rx7club.com/nw-sale-want...nfold-1079981/
Pic:
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 255
Likes: 1
From: England
Made meself some new rear lights. Well, more accurately butchered a set of old lights.
Once you figure out where everything goes and what you need it's just like doing a big Lego set. Only with soldering
Once you figure out where everything goes and what you need it's just like doing a big Lego set. Only with soldering
GSL-EV
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 450
Likes: 8
From: Rapid City, SD
Yesterday I replaced the left front strut and lower control link bushings. Had to grind the head off the lower control link bolt because the sleeve was rusted solidly to the bolt. Doing the same to the right side right now.
At some point the previous owner did change the strut tubes with some US manufactured cylinders. No gas pressure left at all in these. But then they did have at least 54k miles on them.
The ball joints and rod ends are tight but the rubber boots are split and allowing in debris and out the grease. I know I need to fix this and this is one of the disadvantages of actually looking at things from time to time.
At some point the previous owner did change the strut tubes with some US manufactured cylinders. No gas pressure left at all in these. But then they did have at least 54k miles on them.
The ball joints and rod ends are tight but the rubber boots are split and allowing in debris and out the grease. I know I need to fix this and this is one of the disadvantages of actually looking at things from time to time.
Sold my extra 12-A header, TMC front sway bar and an 84 rear disc brake with 4.44 and RB sway bar. Installed them on my friends 81 base model (tagged as 02/81). Just waiting for rear brake pads and some piping to adapt the header to stock pipes (catalytic was welded into the pipes). Currently negotiating on pricing for my extra a 48 dco and one piece 12-a manifold.
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,078
Likes: 42
From: Cambridge, Minnesota
I got a whole lot more done on the car today, mainly just wiring stuff so far.
Had to go get a whole bunch of wiring supplies and paint from Menard's, the hardware store and the local paint shop. I grabbed some POR-15 as well so I can solve the rear bin rust issue - man that stuff is expensive!
Soldering the choke/check relay since I accidentally cut it out before really thinking about it.
Got the wires run for the tuck!
There's a little lip behind the strut tower and coil spot there - the worst part of the tuck.
How I got the wires to sit in there;
The wiring disaster in there right now, going to get cleaned up and sorted out next.
So next up on the list is running the wires I won't be using on the left side of the harness, over the transmission tunnel and to the right passenger side for the stock FB wiring. Then I'll have to start in on the FC wiring right away, not sure if I'll drop the engine in there first or not. I need to make a Mazdatrix order for the front cover o-ring and thermal pellet and install those before putting the engine in.
I also started a series on the swap, hopefully someone finds it helpful
Had to go get a whole bunch of wiring supplies and paint from Menard's, the hardware store and the local paint shop. I grabbed some POR-15 as well so I can solve the rear bin rust issue - man that stuff is expensive!
Soldering the choke/check relay since I accidentally cut it out before really thinking about it.
Got the wires run for the tuck!
There's a little lip behind the strut tower and coil spot there - the worst part of the tuck.
How I got the wires to sit in there;
The wiring disaster in there right now, going to get cleaned up and sorted out next.
So next up on the list is running the wires I won't be using on the left side of the harness, over the transmission tunnel and to the right passenger side for the stock FB wiring. Then I'll have to start in on the FC wiring right away, not sure if I'll drop the engine in there first or not. I need to make a Mazdatrix order for the front cover o-ring and thermal pellet and install those before putting the engine in.
I also started a series on the swap, hopefully someone finds it helpful
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Got a very small start on the first show-prep of the year last night.
Apparently, my Beastie will be the sole Mazda representative at this upcoming event, and one of only 10 Japanese cars there, invited to attend as the "JCCS Samurais"
The "Caddy Day" pool scene from "Caddyshack" keeps running through my head.
Apparently, my Beastie will be the sole Mazda representative at this upcoming event, and one of only 10 Japanese cars there, invited to attend as the "JCCS Samurais"
The "Caddy Day" pool scene from "Caddyshack" keeps running through my head.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 380
Likes: 3
From: palmetto
Just welded the ss bung to my header, now ill mount it back on the car.
Ill start on the wideband guage install tomorrow.
Or should I just stay up late and do it now, decisions decisions lol
Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app
Ill start on the wideband guage install tomorrow.
Or should I just stay up late and do it now, decisions decisions lol
Sent from my samsung gs4 using RX7Club app
Installed one of Banzai's adjustable alternator bracket, messed with the weber a bit and actually got it running pretty good. Much less lag, still a little low on power on top end but it's getting there. Have a wideband but going to get 2 bungs put in and borrow a friends dual wideband and do it right. I'm dual pipes all the way back to the muffler and want the sensors up closer
When I added a bung to my dual pipe exhaust, it ended up reading the front rotor only. One of the carbs I was testing had a vacuum leak at the primary shaft bushing on the rear rotor which caused an off-idle glitch that wasn't seen in the wideband. Kind of a neat way to troubleshoot a carb, or injector if you walk on that side of the street.
I peeled and scraped ugly blue window tint that the po put on. Improved the appearance a ton. My arms are tired though.
Also replaced a bad fan clutch which made the car feel much more lively. Drove it around awhile and smiled a lot.
Perused E-bay looking for a non-crusty SA air cleaner, no luck.
Also replaced a bad fan clutch which made the car feel much more lively. Drove it around awhile and smiled a lot.
Perused E-bay looking for a non-crusty SA air cleaner, no luck.