Just brain storming here, so could you have shopped for a slightly stiffer spring at the hardware store or removed the current one, stretch it some and reinstall it to help correct the issue?

 

Possibly; however, the large external spring is the same length on both units, so I don't think it's the culprit, & the small internal spring is rivetted into place on the center shaft.

Honestly not sure what the failure mode was, here; The operating action of the pellet is somewhat hard to visualize.

As it heats, the small center rod extends from the BOTTOM of the unit, pushing the whole thing upward in the bore. But I've not got a good mental image of what that's actually doing as I have no way to examine the structure of the bore. The pictures in the FSM are not very detailed.

All I know for certain is that changing the water thermostat made no change in the low operating temps, and changing the this unit corrected the issue.

I expected to see it stuck in the open position when I removed it, but it was not. It was in the fully-closed configuration as it came out.

"Opening early" is an assumption based on the skimpy empirical evidence I have & the only possibility I can think of.

 

Maybe we should start the "Epsilon Kewl Kidz Klub?" Welcome to it!

I'd love some tighter pix of yours; the center caps are different & I'm still learning about all the variations.

 

Got my air con working again today! Yeah, it's Summer here... haha.

 

Those of us in Southern California use or A/C in January also!

 

Thanks for the invite to the "Kewl Kidz Klub" - these wheels are by far the most valuable ones I'll have for a very long time...if not forever

I'll grab some closer pictures for you DD, I only have one or maybe two right now that are closeups.

Best close up picture I have so far:


Rear tire size: 225/50R16 - hopefully meaning a 9" wheel size


Front tire size: 205/50R16 - hopefully meaning a 8" wheel size


From my Google-ness:


That is pretty much the only picture I can find of the same wheels that I have. Yours are much more popular, and I can't find a name for either one. "Southern Ways" keeps popping up but when I search that it brings up all sorts of different styles of wheels.

Another random question, anyone know how to remove a wheel locking lug like this? I'm waiting to see if the PO can find the key. If not I'll have to bring the whole car into a tire shop and have them remove the stupid thing.


On a car-related update that's rather sad, I'm going to have to remove the widebody kit off of the 83 chassis and part it out. There's no way this car can be brought back from the grave it lies in right now.

What underneath the driver's side floor board looks like:


Driver's side rear axle trailing arm mount:


Passenger's side rear axle trailing arm mount and underneath the storage bin:


Another angle of the same area;


Passenger's side is completely gone behind the passenger seat pretty much:
















So that really sucks. The kit will be cut off of this car and installed on my other red car. That will also be getting the TII swap that I'm leaving to go pick up tomorrow.

Spending all day tomorrow and most the day Friday on the road from MN to NJ to get an S4 TII engine, uncut wiring harness, ECU, transmission and new water pump from a guy out there. I'll be hanging out with 82transam for at least Friday evening while I'm out there too - happy to finally hang out with another forum member half a country away! Should be a pretty fun trip, hopefully everything works out. Leaving on Saturday to come back, will complete the drive on Sunday morning hopefully.

 

I swapped my motor mounts, transmission mount and transmission cross-member bushing. Im still getting a lot of vibration coming from my shifter/ drivetrain. Have any of you guys ever experienced an unbalanced drive-shaft???

 

Yes i have had a driveshaft go out on 2 different rx7's is it vibrating at idle or only under motion?

 

It only vibrates when it's in motion. Did you just replace the driveshaft with a new one?

 

Yea its the u joints in the driveshaft. If its an 81 -83 you can replace the u joints if its an 84 or 85 they are staked in and most driveshaft shops wont grind them out. So you need to replace the entire driveshaft its very easy only the 4 bolts on the diff yolk. And it just slides in and out of the trans. I found a used one at the local pull and pay it cost me 20 bucks and a half hour.

 

I have a 85 thanks for the info imy going to get a new one soon.

 

No problem

 

I installed an Adaptronic e440d and set up sequential ignition with 4 ign-1a coils. Injection and turbo to follow soon!

 

The 83-85 u-joints can be made to be serviceable on the stacked u-joints. I had it done on my 1985 GSL. Code me $100 but I'm sure it can be done cheaper. Here's a pic. I went ahead and powder coated mine. This is what I used. The drive-shaft shop had them in-stock.

Staked-In U-Joints

 

Replaced the Distributor Cap and Rotor. Bought the Japanese made ones from MazdaTrix at a much higher cost than the generic one's from E-bay or Pep Boys. Not sure if I wasted my money. Speaking of wasting money, does everyone think the Magnecor Plug Wires are worth the extra cost over NGK or other more generic wires for just normal daily driving in a stock car?

 

Aren't Magnacores designed with direct fire ignition in mind? IIRC, they lack shielding that stock wires have and will cause interference with the radio. At least the thicker wires are like that. I had a set I bought when I was looking to install a 6A box in the car, but sold them when I decided against it.

fm

 

 

Fixed over heating issue, installed banzai engine mounts, installed twin belt setup, replaced fuse able link with fuse box, burned out some bushing and painted front radiator cover.

 

Thank you! That may come in handy in the future.
Bookmarked for future reference.

 

Do you have any pictures of this setup? Or a writeup to a wiring diagram? I'm considering running the E440D ECU as well - once I'm feeling rich and all.

I did this too! Just set em on fire with the blow torch and left em to burn.





My update on the day is that I called Mazdatrix and got my TII front yoke on an FB driveshaft ordered! So that's literally the last piece I need to run the TII in the car - means I need to get rolling on the build!

 

Looks like a real BARbeque...

 

Finally got NEW front tires to replace the tired used ones, had to go 175/70/R13 but, that basically makes it staggered as the almost new rears are 185/70/13 and 175/70/13 are the other recommended size on the door sticker. All in all for $124.90 for um wasn't to bad and parking lot turning is a bit easier now. Also replaced the accelerator pump diaphragm. Next is new engine and trans mounts and find a reasonable solution to the crossmember bushings and Springs, in no particular order.

 

My little bonfire, just for proof

 

Having a rear trailing arm bushing roast, always a fun day.

 

Got some new parts in for the beast! More are on the way...I'll take pics of the parts as they arrive

Pineapple Racing engine mount adapter and Greddy throttle body adapter.


Some used Racing Beat springs!