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dude there is no way a peripheral port can idle at 800rpm! at least that is what facebook tells me.
ROTFL! I know you're funnin with me, but I'll post a vid later to prove it for the doubters.
Today I got started putting the roll bar in. What a pain in the ***. Got it where I thought it was going to go, drilled a few holes, realized that that *wasn't* where it wanted to go. Pulled bar out of car, messed with a bit, put it back in and finally got it into it's final resting spot. Drilled all the holes. All bolts go through the holes as they should. Wheel well area will need long bolts, so I'll pick some up in the next day or so.
Pulled the Autopower 5-point harness out that j9fd3s gave me. I have 2 eye bolts, but only one fits. I still need 5 more, so I just placed an order with JEGS for them. I'll wait to bolt the roll bar in until after the eyebolts come in so I don't have to remove it to get the passenger side in.
Decided to adjust the rear Drums (@#$! SAs….) and figured "well, wheels are off, might as well drop in those Bilsteins I've had kicking around for, oh, 5 yrs." So out went the OE (!) shocks, which actually doing OK considering they had some 90 thou on them (presuming an earlier owner never changed them?).
Then-
"Hmm, good time to wash - and WAX - the wheel wells!"
Too much time on my hands apparently….
Decided to adjust the rear Drums (@#$! SAs….) and figured "well, wheels are off, might as well drop in those Bilsteins I've had kicking around for, oh, 5 yrs." So out went the OE (!) shocks, which actually doing OK considering they had some 90 thou on them (presuming an earlier owner never changed them?).
Then-
"Hmm, good time to wash - and WAX - the wheel wells!"
Too much time on my hands apparently….
;D
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
You have, what, like 20+ hours of daylight? Must be exhausting, can never tell when to
stop
Don't forget to clean the inside of the wheels too Maybe you should paint those
drums while you are at it as well.
Today the racing harness eye bolts came in so I finished putting in the roll bar this evening. Thankfully, it went in without much hassle. I'm going to touch up the fuxor'd paint from the install tomorrow evening. But overall I'm very pleased. I still need to install the anti-sub belt eye bolt to both floors, but I need to make/find suitable backing plates for them. I'll probably hit up Phalanx Wankel who has a fair amount of plate steel in his sculpture studio.
Tomorrow, we're heading over to Cars n Coffee at Canepa Motorsports in Scotts Valley in his FD. Should be a good show.
fm
Oh, here are a few pics of the installed roll bar.
I started putting the A/C back in today. Tired of 90+ degrees making me not want to drive the car. I need a new evaporator though as I kind of mangled mine up when I removed it a couple years ago... Its all in bolted up and ready to go. Just need the evaporator, a couple custom lines from where I got too excited about removing it and cut them )coming out of the firewall). Pulleys are on as well as the belt. Relay is bolted near the shock tower. It just needs to be wired up. I plan on putting a small pusher fan in front of the condenser. The reason I removed it is because it made the engine run warmer than I liked at stops. So I will use the pusher fan to remedy this.
So for this project I will...
-Install A/C
-Install pusher fan (retain clutch fan for reliability)
-Install FD fuse block (Pricey, but brand new, and it mounts right on the + terminal for a clean install)
-Install FC alternator for increased loads from EFI and A/C fan on s1 alternator
I give up... I started putting the A/C back in today. Tired of 90+ degrees making me not want to drive the car. I need a new evaporator though as I kind of mangled mine up when I removed it a couple years ago... Its all in bolted up and ready to go. Just need the evaporator, a couple custom lines from where I got too excited about removing it and cut them )coming out of the firewall). Pulleys are on as well as the belt. Relay is bolted near the shock tower. It just needs to be wired up. I plan on putting a small pusher fan in front of the condenser. The reason I removed it is because it made the engine run warmer than I liked at stops. So I will use the pusher fan to remedy this. So for this project I will... -Install A/C -Install pusher fan (retain clutch fan for reliability) -Install FD fuse block (Pricey, but brand new, and it mounts right on the + terminal for a clean install) -Install FC alternator for increased loads from EFI and A/C fan on s1 alternator
I put the A/C back in mine a couple of years ago too and use it all the time. I have a black interior and after sitting in the sun all day at work it gets way too hot inside especially the steering wheel. I also used it during an autocross event in the rain, the windows fogged up so much I couldn't see out the windshield till I put the A/C on with the defroster.
You will enjoy the car more now. Good luck with the install.
Dropped the center section from my RB SP system to repaint. I'll have the sand blaster out for some
other projects and figured I'd repaint the center section since most of the paint has burned off over
the years. Plus there is an annoying leak somewhere and the gaskets came in the other week. Kill
2 birds etc. No rust, just lots of shiny steel showing through.
While disconnecting the header I saw that my passenger side FMOC mount has parted ways and it
was just dangling there, supported by the lower shield only. Another injury from the DGRR
experience I'm sure.Thankfully you can still get them new, so I ordered up a set from mazdatrix
immediately.
The gaskets all were pretty baked (high quality metal reinforced to begin with). Very flaky in spots
and probably leaking. I'll replace the 2 center section gaskets and the header gasket as well. That
will leave me with another full set for next time in about 4 or 5 years from now.
I'll post pics of the gaskets and the before/after shots of the center section later when I get a
chance to take em.
t_g_farrell,
I'm pretty sure I've got leaks as well, particularly the header to block gasket. One of these days I'll get a new gasket and replace it.
This evening, I checked under the car for sources of oil leaks. I knew there was a leak coming from the oil cooler. Found that the upper AN fitting was definitely leaking. The lower may or may not have been leaking...hard to tell since the upper puked oil all over it. I tightened both. What a pain...with the battery and the radiator in the way, tightening the AN fittings was not easy. Not sure if it was sufficient or not. Will check this weekend. Also noticed that there appeared to be oil leaks from the oil pan around the bolts. I cleaned it up and tightened down all of the bolts.
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; Jul 16, 2015 at 12:54 AM.
Yesterday, I installed racing bucket and the freebie Autopower racing harness I got from j9fd3s. Then I started putting on the Kirkey roll bar padding. I finished it up today.
I'd like to cut the dead coils off my spare Eibach rear springs and see about lowering the car more before Sunday's SCCA autocross event. We'll see if I get to it or not. Will have to call in some favors at work and with a friend if I'm going to get it done.
I finally got my new wheel/tire setup mounted up. Rota OS Mesh (4x110) 15x7+20mm.
Yoko S.Drives 195 and 205 50's front/rear. Really meaty looking tire on 7" wheels.
I have Stance coils that I am getting organized to install, so the car will be lowered quite a bit compared to this at stock ride height. Still stoked with how they look for now!
Looks great, Tommy!
Yeah, even with my car jacked up with 4 fingers spacing between the tire and the wheel wells, it still seems low. When I drop it, it will be like a skateboard.
I finally got my new wheel/tire setup mounted up. Rota OS Mesh (4x110) 15x7+20mm.
Yoko S.Drives 195 and 205 50's front/rear. Really meaty looking tire on 7" wheels.
I have Stance coils that I am getting organized to install, so the car will be lowered quite a bit compared to this at stock ride height. Still stoked with how they look for now!
I'll post a few more pics. I won't be slamming the car when I get the coils installed. I may need to roll the fenders a bit so the tires don't get shredded under full travel however. I am just worried my oem paint may flake or crack. Somehow my Canadian car is rust free with great original paint.. don't wanna mess that up.
I am very stoked with the look. Much happier than I was expecting.
To Do:
Stance street spec coils
TTT front LCAs
TTT front tension rods
New front rotors, pads, bearings, seals
All new sway bar bushings and links F/R
Leaving rear bushings and watts alone for now....
Last edited by tommyeflight89; Jul 16, 2015 at 08:13 PM.
Unbelievable condition for a Canadian car. If you really have to roll the fenders, use a heat gun to soften the paint.
Last night, I realized that my roll bar doesn't have a harness bar for the passenger side, so I guess I wont' be carrying any passengers for awhile. So I swapped in my red Bride Zeta II Neos bucket. Here's what it looks like now:
I just got back from cutting the dead coils off my Eibach rear springs. Gonna fit them tonight...hopefully it's just right.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; Jul 18, 2015 at 01:49 AM.
Installed the cut springs this evening. The driver's side needs another half-coil cut at least as it's about 3/4" higher than the right. Understandable since the muffler is on the passenger side. It'll have to wait until after this weekend's auto-x. As it is, the car was lowered another inch. I dropped the front coilovers quite a bit. Now the car sits about 4-3/4" above the ground as measured from under the door. Under the front air dam it measures 4-1/4" to the floor. I already can't get the floor jack all the way under the car. If I go any lower, I'll have issues getting out of my drive.
fm
Last edited by Fungus Mungus; Jul 18, 2015 at 02:07 AM.
Maybe you should paint those
