What did you do to your FB today?
01-22-15, 05:06 PM
#5576
I have been thinking of these early 70s MGs (smog exempt in CA). Is it difficult to find suspension/brake parts for them? As I have been checking them out at the boneyards, it is a nice rotary project, likely a 12-A conversion due to tight engine bay.
01-22-15, 06:17 PM
#5577
Sin City Rotary
I wouldn't look at too old, have a 64 Midget here and finding the right water outlet and other stuff proved to be a pita ... haven't looked at chassis crap yet
01-22-15, 06:59 PM
#5578
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i think the 12A would literally bolt in...
01-22-15, 09:53 PM
#5580
Sin City Rotary
i thought about it too, you can buy just about every piece of the car, and its cheap. MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars
i think the 12A would literally bolt in...
i think the 12A would literally bolt in...
Wacky draw back may be how wide a tire you can fit under these things, ported 12a would probably roast the tires with the greatest of ease lol
01-22-15, 10:11 PM
#5581
I joined NEDRA which is the National Electric Drag Racing Association. From my goofing around last summer I found that I was about 0.7 second off of the existing 1/8th mile record so my goal is to break that record this year. I can probably do that now since I added a cooling system for my motor controller but I want to set a decent record, one that won't be easily broken on a whim. And with that in mind the car needs to lose a little weight. I had it on the scales last summer and the weight is 2424 lbs without me in it. Here is the weight on each wheel.
Doug, I don't want to be a negative Nancy, but .7 seconds off of 1/8 mile is a tall order. It's the equivalent of 1.28 seconds off the quarter mile, which is huge...several car lengths. What was the record holder's 60' time, trap speed and ET? Your 60' time, trap speed/ET?
From the calculators I've used (I've used several, but my favorite is the app Drag Race Calculator as it's free, has adjustments for BHP/WHP and altitude, and I wrote it
), you'd have to lose over 300 lbs at the same power to match that ET. Now, if the record holder was using slicks and you weren't, and you had relatively close trap speeds, you might have a chance if you don slicks. I've shaved several tenths off my ET just based on getting your 60' times down wearing slicks.
fm
01-23-15, 12:30 PM
#5583
--- snipped ---
Doug, I don't want to be a negative Nancy, but .7 seconds off of 1/8 mile is a tall order. It's the equivalent of 1.28 seconds off the quarter mile, which is huge...several car lengths. What was the record holder's 60' time, trap speed and ET? Your 60' time, trap speed/ET?
From the calculators I've used (I've used several, but my favorite is the app Drag Race Calculator as it's free, has adjustments for BHP/WHP and altitude, and I wrote it), you'd have to lose over 300 lbs at the same power to match that ET.
Now, if the record holder was using slicks and you weren't, and you had relatively close trap speeds, you might have a chance if you don slicks. I've shaved several tenths off my ET just based on getting your 60' times down wearing slicks.
fm
Doug, I don't want to be a negative Nancy, but .7 seconds off of 1/8 mile is a tall order. It's the equivalent of 1.28 seconds off the quarter mile, which is huge...several car lengths. What was the record holder's 60' time, trap speed and ET? Your 60' time, trap speed/ET?
From the calculators I've used (I've used several, but my favorite is the app Drag Race Calculator as it's free, has adjustments for BHP/WHP and altitude, and I wrote it
), you'd have to lose over 300 lbs at the same power to match that ET. Now, if the record holder was using slicks and you weren't, and you had relatively close trap speeds, you might have a chance if you don slicks. I've shaved several tenths off my ET just based on getting your 60' times down wearing slicks.
fm
Peak power goes from 75kw (100HP) to 170kw (228HP).
Torque goes from about 90 ft-lb to 266 ft-lb (0 to 4000 rpm).
And weight drops from 2800 lbs (passenger) to 2600 (No passenger).
And if I build a drag racing battery will drop to 2250 lbs.
Then again I could be totally deluding myself. I have a NHRA strip about 30 miles away so when they open I can go see what is real.
I will look at your drag race calculator. I wrote my own but it does not include rolling resistance or air drag effects so it is extremely optimistic. Not many people get to race in a vacuum.
01-23-15, 12:48 PM
#5584
...snipped...
OK, so I hadn't realized you were doing 10.8 secs at 100hp. If you manage to keep 228hp and maintain your torque at 266ft-lb, you should definitely be able to beat that record and turn a respectable 1/8 mile time.
There is always a bit of deluding oneself when mulling over changes and effects on your time slips that they'll have. My experience has always been that I've been optimistic, but not overly so.
It's fairly simple, based on the most realistic equations I could find. Of course, traction and gearing play a role as well as drag and rolling resistance. It's a good tool for estimating, but bench racing is no substitute for going out and smoking the tires. But bench racing is fun...that's why I named the company Bench Racing Productions.
fm
Then again I could be totally deluding myself. I have a NHRA strip about 30 miles away so when they open I can go see what is real.
I will look at your drag race calculator. I wrote my own but it does not include rolling resistance or air drag effects so it is extremely optimistic. Not many people get to race in a vacuum.
fm
01-23-15, 03:32 PM
#5585
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Wacky draw back may be how wide a tire you can fit under these things, ported 12a would probably roast the tires with the greatest of ease lol
01-23-15, 03:43 PM
#5586
How about MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Sunbeam Parts & Accessories - Victoria British, Ltd. Their the same company as Black Dragon and LMC Truck.
01-23-15, 04:28 PM
#5587
Sin City Rotary
How about MG, Triumph, Austin Healey, Sunbeam Parts & Accessories - Victoria British, Ltd. Their the same company as Black Dragon and LMC Truck.
01-23-15, 07:38 PM
#5588
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Finally got it running again today after being out of commission for a few weeks while replacing the Clutch, Clutch master and Slave cylinders, and the leaky Tranny rear main seal.
Filthy as all hell, gotta wash it tomorrow. Luckily having a nice few days of warm weather here in L.A.
Filthy as all hell, gotta wash it tomorrow. Luckily having a nice few days of warm weather here in L.A.
01-24-15, 05:03 PM
#5589
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im having the same problem with my gslse
Well, dropping the distributor down into the front cover yields some interesting results for me. The helical cut gears that drive the distributor spline with it and force the assembly to rotate when it's about 1/2in from bottoming out on the front cover. They rotate the reluctor (from the gear on the bottom that I lined the dimple up on) in a clockwise direction when you're pressing it down home to where it should be sitting. Well the dimple being lined up allotted for two options for the distributor to sit at the center of its adjustment after the clockwise rotation of the reluctor.
Option 1:
This was the closest alignment to what the distributor looked like outside of the car on the bench, so I assumed that this was correct.
Option 2:
This was me moving the teeth one movement clockwise compared to the first option. Mind you, the dimple still appeared to line up with the raised cast part - it was a close toss up either way. But I don't believe this to be correct because it's not at either pickup at TDC.
Take note that the distributor housing is lined up in the middle of it's adjustment on the front cover in both cases.
Well, then I noticed something else peculiar going on and it was the amount of play in the rotor tree (not sure on the technical name, looks like a tree so why not). The flat spot where it should line up on the distributor shaft was too small so it allowed for at least 15 degrees of deflection in either direction from where it should be lined up.
Spun out as far as it could go in the counterclockwise direction:
Spun out as far as it could go in the clockwise direction:
The too-small flat spot on the rotor tree:
Well, while doing all of this the starter got stuck out against the flywheel. So to fix that I dropped the starter and bench tested it. The solenoid works and pushes the gear out quickly and strongly, as well as spinning the motor at a decent enough seeming rate. I still think the cranking speed is too slow but maybe I'm just not used to the rotary cranking speed any more.
So I got the starter thrown back in thinking it would all be ok now, she'd fire up and I'd have no more problems.
Yeah right, in my dreams...(get it, DreamInRotary)...
...
I'm tired.
She didn't fire. Didn't even hint at firing. So I knew that the worst had come to pass and I'd need to do what I should have done in the first place...
Option 1:
This was the closest alignment to what the distributor looked like outside of the car on the bench, so I assumed that this was correct.
Option 2:
This was me moving the teeth one movement clockwise compared to the first option. Mind you, the dimple still appeared to line up with the raised cast part - it was a close toss up either way. But I don't believe this to be correct because it's not at either pickup at TDC.
Take note that the distributor housing is lined up in the middle of it's adjustment on the front cover in both cases.
Well, then I noticed something else peculiar going on and it was the amount of play in the rotor tree (not sure on the technical name, looks like a tree so why not). The flat spot where it should line up on the distributor shaft was too small so it allowed for at least 15 degrees of deflection in either direction from where it should be lined up.
Spun out as far as it could go in the counterclockwise direction:
Spun out as far as it could go in the clockwise direction:
The too-small flat spot on the rotor tree:
Well, while doing all of this the starter got stuck out against the flywheel. So to fix that I dropped the starter and bench tested it. The solenoid works and pushes the gear out quickly and strongly, as well as spinning the motor at a decent enough seeming rate. I still think the cranking speed is too slow but maybe I'm just not used to the rotary cranking speed any more.
So I got the starter thrown back in thinking it would all be ok now, she'd fire up and I'd have no more problems.
Yeah right, in my dreams...(get it, DreamInRotary)...
... I'm tired.She didn't fire. Didn't even hint at firing. So I knew that the worst had come to pass and I'd need to do what I should have done in the first place...
01-24-15, 06:20 PM
#5590
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i just put my tape measure in it, and its got more room in the front than the 1st gen, and slightly less in the rear. so 205's should be no trouble and 225 is tight but probably possible.
01-24-15, 10:48 PM
#5591
Sin City Rotary
01-25-15, 07:59 PM
#5594
Well, that was easy...
Old on the right, new on the left. Note that the new bottom cap is shallower than the original, and that the pellet itself sits higher. I installed all the new components figuring they are meant to work as a set.
Water temps are now exactly where they traditionally have been on the car; about 1/8" into the bottom of the "normal" brackets after a warm-up and hold steady even after a "spirited" 30-minute test drive. Which included a jog down the 71 next to a very nice white 280Z.
Problem solved.
01-26-15, 09:27 AM
#5596
It looks like it was opening early, rather than stuck open, but yes - - it was allowing oil through the cooler even though the engine was not warm enough to need it.
It didn't make a huge difference in performance, just a little bit 'off'; idle wasn't as solid as it should be, response at low RPMs was slower, all the usual "not quite warm yet" behavior, but it never really went away unless it was a hot day.
Probably would have been a lot more noticeable on a daily-driven car in a cold-weather country.
It didn't make a huge difference in performance, just a little bit 'off'; idle wasn't as solid as it should be, response at low RPMs was slower, all the usual "not quite warm yet" behavior, but it never really went away unless it was a hot day.
Probably would have been a lot more noticeable on a daily-driven car in a cold-weather country.
01-26-15, 02:05 PM
#5597
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01-26-15, 11:50 PM
#5600
Got to bring this beast home on Sunday. She's definitely going to be a bit more work than I initially anticipated but I know it'll be worth it in the end.
1983 VIN Mazda RX7 GSL with Pacifica Widebody kit on staggered Epsilon 3-piece wheels that are 16x8 and 16x9.
1983 VIN Mazda RX7 GSL with Pacifica Widebody kit on staggered Epsilon 3-piece wheels that are 16x8 and 16x9.