What did you do to your FB today?
Well since I do not sleep anymore-- I changed what looked like my original windshield wiper blades out. Went with the bosch micro edge. Aggravating to say the least but their in there. I hope. Just in time for me to get a little wet in the rain. while all y'all slept
Sent from my iPad using RX7Club. how bout that!
Sent from my iPad using RX7Club. how bout that!
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I made a new tab by combining a .250 male QD crimp with two similar-size spade lugs, used the permatex glue to attach it, then overpainted the whole assembly with the conductive paint.
That was in 1993. Still attached, still works.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
I installed new ball joints, brake rotors, pads,wheel bearings, and rear shocks. The car is really starting to tighten up! Coming soon for the chasis will be tie rods, camber plates, and stainless brake lines.
Yesterday I put the charger on the GSL-SE and then started her up. Been a couple of months since the last drive. She deserves better than that! A little blue smoke right at the start. Drove to the gas station that actually has gas, not gasohol. Dumped in a bottle of injector cleaner and 13.5 gallons of "The Good Stuff". Finished charging her. Today I took her for a drive and she behaved almost perfectly. Idle is a little low and she will sometimes stall when the AC kicks on at idle.
On the GSL-EV I have started repairing the leaking oil cooler I took off the GSL-SE last year. It leaked because I broke it during the upgrade to stainless lines. I am going to use it to cool the motor controller on the EV. My repair will not make it usable for cooling oil on an RX-7. That would require more welding talent than I have. These oil coolers have a bypass so the oil heats up quickly and when up to temp the bypass is closed off and all oil goes through the radiator portion. I added a brass spacer so that the bypass is always closed off. I need the controller to stay as cool as possible. I will take some photos of the repair when I get a little further along.
On the GSL-EV I have started repairing the leaking oil cooler I took off the GSL-SE last year. It leaked because I broke it during the upgrade to stainless lines. I am going to use it to cool the motor controller on the EV. My repair will not make it usable for cooling oil on an RX-7. That would require more welding talent than I have. These oil coolers have a bypass so the oil heats up quickly and when up to temp the bypass is closed off and all oil goes through the radiator portion. I added a brass spacer so that the bypass is always closed off. I need the controller to stay as cool as possible. I will take some photos of the repair when I get a little further along.
I fixed one of my tabs that had gotten broken off before I bought the car, & I think is was the permatex kit I used.
I made a new tab by combining a .250 male QD crimp with two similar-size spade lugs, used the permatex glue to attach it, then overpainted the whole assembly with the conductive paint.
That was in 1993. Still attached, still works.
Sent from my iPad using RX7Club. how bout that!
Originally Posted by DivinDriver
I fixed one of my tabs that had gotten broken off before I bought the car, & I think is was the permatex kit I used.
I made a new tab by combining a .250 male QD crimp with two similar-size spade lugs, used the permatex glue to attach it, then overpainted the whole assembly with the conductive paint.
That was in 1993. Still attached, still works.
I made a new tab by combining a .250 male QD crimp with two similar-size spade lugs, used the permatex glue to attach it, then overpainted the whole assembly with the conductive paint.
That was in 1993. Still attached, still works.
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,815
Likes: 24
From: Columbia, Tennessee
I've actually never done a swaybar install, will be able to let you know within the next few months tho!
Look it up in Haynes manual and FSM, they should have any indicators or install instructions outlined.
~Geoff
Look it up in Haynes manual and FSM, they should have any indicators or install instructions outlined.
~Geoff
Well I opened the hatch, but worked on setting up my dad's 68' Camino with an electric fuel pump, regulator and, new 3/8" soft line and dual inline filters (one under hood one, one before the pump). Not really RX-7 but, was car related and based off the setup on my 7. Here's a couple pics
Under car

Under hood

Next is the wiring, and then it's done.
Under car

Under hood

Next is the wiring, and then it's done.
Well I opened the hatch, but worked on setting up my dad's 68' Camino with an electric fuel pump, regulator and, new 3/8" soft line and dual inline filters (one under hood one, one before the pump). Not really RX-7 but, was car related and based off the setup on my 7. Here's a couple pics Under car Under hood Next is the wiring, and then it's done.
Ahhhhh!!!!!! Its hideous!!!
Jk. Nice looking intake there. Always loved camaros.
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
I finally found the time to button up the last bits of the interior. Installed plastic retainers for the bottom edge of the carpet below the rear bins (yes, my '80 has bins). So, the interior is at last complete. At least until I find new carpet for the front half.
Still want to mess around with those Blaster coils I bought, & I need to go through the front steering geometry one more time & get an alignment.
Contemplating new rear control arm / Watts bushings but I hear conflicting reports on whether urethane is appropriate or not.
Still want to mess around with those Blaster coils I bought, & I need to go through the front steering geometry one more time & get an alignment.
Contemplating new rear control arm / Watts bushings but I hear conflicting reports on whether urethane is appropriate or not.
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
Likes: 3,232
From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
for example, the stock upper links are shorter than the stock upper links, this means when you hit a bump, the pinion actually rotates downwards. so since the watts links are perpendicular, they actually need to twist.
so you actually want something really soft. rod ends work in the Watts, and the lower links, but since the uppers are not parallel to each other, rod ends will rip the body
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 8,376
Likes: 28
From: Chino Hills, CA
Guess I'll have to plunk down the change for new stock links, then. It's about time, I guess; mine are showing some cracking on the outer rubber faces. Original to the car, so 35 years and upwards of 200k miles on 'em. Some of the very few original-to-the-car parts of the running gear left, in fact.
fm
After washing her and cleaning the interior, I took Rexy out for a drive. Decided to see how she'd handle being driven to my new job while the weather is still good enough for her to be on the road. 88km round trip and she used 1/4 tank of gas. Not too shabby for a half bridge 13b and an average speed of 95km/hr with a lot of hill climbing. PITA without a/c when it's 34 C outside though! LOL







