how much would it cost me for a -10 an oil return line from a s5 turbo to bulkhead fitting for my front cover??

 

What type of injector does the FD have? Peak and hold (low resistance) or saturated (high resistance)?

And if known, how do they acheive an upgrade from 850cc to 1300cc? Bore it out or change the peak hold characteristic of the injector (electronically change the amount of time the injector spray stays open)?

Obviously I don't know what the heck I'm talking about, that's why I'm asking. Who knows if I'm on the right track or not. Sorry for any confusion.

 

what is the oil line fed to? what are you talking about? please explain, thanks

 

OK, at long last i've got enough $ to start work on my Rx2. I got a 93 13bTT and i know I've got alot of panel beating and turbo plumbing in my near future, but right now i'm most concerned w. simply mounting the thing in the car. It's my understanding that the late model 13bs have engine mounts on the side, while my rx2 chassis is a front mount design. Are front covers interchangeable? can I pull the front cover from a wrecking yard, slap it on the TT and go? Are there any drawbacks to front mounting vs side mounting? If i *need* side mounts how do i go about setting that up? are there kits? or is this a total custom fab job?

Thanks

 

sorry, i figured it out, didnt realize that the front mount oil cooler wasnt stock, hehe, im just gonna feed it from somewhere else, thanks

 

......

 

Ok. I am going to look like a idiot, but here goes. I am putting a TII turbo on my '83 GSL. I have a complete stock turbo from a '88 TII with wastegate and exhaust manifold. I have an adapter plate to mount to a 12a engine. The first question. What would be my best and easiest way to go on my intake and carb? I have the stock intake (blockoff plates no emmisions) with a rebuilt Nikki. I also have a '80 intake lying around. I also have a RB intake for a stock port. The engine is a Mazda replacement with appr. 20k on her. I am not looking to go crazy on this setup, just reliable. The second question I have is, would it be better to leave the internal wastegate or go external? Because I do not know what the stock boost pressure is on the TII. If there is any advice you can give me, I would appreciate it. Thanks. Sam.

 

I reciently got some PIAA wheels for a good deal and i was wondering if they will fit my 88GTU they are 17x8 with at 42 offset. and what sizs tires can i get. get at me thatk you

 

Dam robert no wonder why your always busy. alot of questions being asked here. I just wanna say thanks again for all the help you have given me. I got my TII turbo yesterday(ditched the ford 2.3 turbo). it was from a 89, funky flange. I will be finding out about those jets soon.

Hey bad 83, go with a sidedraft 45dcoe if you can afford it. have robert boost prep it for you and the side draft intake. I have been told by a few peeps that you should port the wastegate flap as much as you possibly can. I think the factory boost was pretty low. keep the internal one for now. unless you got fat pockets of cheese. lol

 

I bought a 1980 and it's been in the shop for 3 months. Diagnostic test - compression check 120 psi. loss of power when driving. Installed new carb (3 times) kept getting it back damaged in shipping from Florida to Washington. Mechanic installed 2 sets of spark plugs because they kept getting soaked with gas, mechanic changed out gas in tank twice (1st - old gas, 2nd time - 2qts of oil in gas). Still loss of power - Now compression check 65-100 psi. Mechanic says I need to get new engine because rotor tips lost ability to seal. Your thoughts? Should this all be on my dime?

 

I just bought a 93'Rx7 with Apexi single turbo upgrade.It ran great when I got it from North Carolina and drove it home to Georgia. Every thing was going great until I finally got into it real good and it blew off some of the vacume lines. Now I dont Know where to start on fixing it.I thought that I just fouled the spark plugs so I put some new ones in and it starts up and acts like its going to warm up and then it cuts off. What should I do?

 

Hey Robert. Answer the phone I was going to get an address from you cause I was going to FEDEX you 10lbs of cheese, but I ate it all with some crackers... Sorry... So where should I hook up the boost reference port on the mallory FPR? It's on the intake manifold right now. Question is that if the turbo is building boost at say 3000 rpm cruise then how would the FPR know that there is boost on the carb side of the throttle plates if the FPR is seeing vaccume from the manifold. How would it know to increase fuel pressure to the carb and cruise no matter how big of a pump you have. Cause I was kinda mad and just hooked up the charge pipe and it went brickwall lean when I was at part throttle, but if I just stomped on it, it would haul *** down the road at 5psi and the fuel pump was keeping up fine nice and rich. Oh and its scarry fast, but I can't drive it over 3k at any type of part throttle or it goes off the map lean and surges, but there is vaccume in the manifold. Do I just need to shut the fawk up eat more cheeseand buy a bigger fuel pump, or what? Again its currently a Holley Blue 14psi@110gph as opposed to the GSL-SE which does 50 psi @ 27gph.

 

ohhh, not good, what shop is working on your car?
why did you go all the way to florida for a carb?

did they check the fuel pump, and filter? why did they change the gas tank?

strange

 

Good question as my blowthru setup is coming to completion.......
Would the GSL-SE fuel pump with a regulator to step it down be sufficient to run the blowthru carbs with a stock TII motor??????
And as always, many thanks to Robert for his expertise.

 

Yea the GSL-SE pump will work. I've got mine working but the holley is just shy of it working correctly. It takes a second to catch up to the boost. It drives, but it's not safe. The GSL-SE pump is mo better. As he stated before with a GSL-SE pump you should be good up to 12 psi.

 

I have a couple of questions on adjusting this oer right...first I can set the idle to 900 rpms, but it wont quite idle there, keeps wanting to die, no matter what I do with the mixture screws, so I took it up to 1100rpms where it will idle just fine, but then I get a wandering idle showing on the tach as anywhere from 1100 up to 1600. I'm going to connect a new tachometer to it incase thats my problem.
Now once the idle is out of the way, on idle when you hit the throttle it bogs, BAD. I've tried adjusting the accelarator pump, but nothing seems to help, it just bogs no matter what, went through the manual for the carb and after adjusting mixture and accel pump, still couldnt get it to rev smoothly, always bogged at first then would catch. Once it is past that initial bog, it will run up to redline just fine, and it is very fast, but that initial bog is what is bothering me now... anyone have any ideas. I haven't installed my holley red pump yet, so Im still on the stock fuel pump.

 

without a air fuel ratio we are just guessing at tuning so... try moving the float level up,(will make the carb richer) and see what happens.. if it gets wors try dropping the float level.. also try removing the accelerator pump squirters and see how it reacts... get back to me and we will go from there

 

se pump will work fine, along ith a mallory #4309 return style rising rate regulator you be ready for boost!!

 

start it up, and spray some carb cleaner or starting fluid around the intake manifold .. if the rpm's change when you spray it, your close to a vacuem leak, find it and fix it.. use zip ties so the vac. lines dont blow offg again.. good luck

 

pm sent

 

I'm thinking it may behoove me to pickup an A/FR gauge when I pickup my oil press, temp, volt, and new tach next week.

 

front 235 45 17
rear 255 40 17 (roll the lip in the rear)
you can run a bigger tire in the rear but 255 will be as big as you will want to go on a 8" rim

 

those goodies will definatly help you in more than one way! try the carb adjustments i mentioned tho... see how that goes, eat some cheese too

 

I actually just finished eating my cheesy eggs for breakfast..mmmm...cheeeesseee.

 

Alright, now my car runs good while its idleing.It idles at about 2000rpm and runs fine while its warming up,but at the same time the air/fuel gauge is reading richer and richer and richer until it gits warmed up and then either the rpms start to jump or it just cuts.I dont know if the o2s,tps,or icv has gone bad or what. What do you suggest has happened.