What are some possible causes for a crappy idle when the A/C kicks on? It doesn't just drop - it runs like it has a big vaccum leak? It idles fine without the A/C on.

 

easy fix.. your car has an ac idle switch, when you turn the ac on, should raise your idle to compensate for the extra load caused from the drag of the ac pump.. fix your idle compensater and you will be fine

 

It does this with the BAC connected or disconnected - see my thread for more details - https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=a%2Fc

 

I just acquired this wideband setup,follow this link, http://www.powerdex.com/


Can I use the analog signal as a substitute for the stock o2 signal (3/4 ways down the page of the link it states an analog signal)? Would that not be a good idea?


Thanks in advance,
Timothy

 

I rebuilt the clutch MC in my `83 RX 7 but, when attempting to bench bleed it, the pressure comes up into the reservoir but no pressure out of the hole that leads to the slave. There is some corrosion in the bore that wouldn`t hone out but I should get some pressure at the outlet. Right? Help please. Denscarden (newbie) dennyjoyce@aol.com

 

Ok, this my seem like a silly question---- but here goes. One, when you boost prep a Nikki, are you still able to use the OMP, or will the boost pressure reander it inoperative? Two, can I get a responce from Rotoryshack about boost prepping my carb? I have sent several pm's, e-mails, and called the store, but I still haven't got a responce. All I need to know are the basics, like how long would it take for you to do the carb and send it back, and the price that I have seen for the carb hat and the boost prep, does that include shipping back? I need to know so I can proceed with my 12AT project. Thank you!

 

Problem solved. I had the back cup in wrong. Bled the MC and the slave. Works great! Denscarden

 

I recently bought an REW to drop in my 1st gen. I dont have a computer , and think the motor might be out of a 97 or later Rx7.

I took off the intake and exhaust manifolds to find that the apex seals were stuck in the rotors *D'oh* I was able to dislodge 2 seals on one rotor, and when I spin the flywheel by hand, it hisses when those pass the sparkplug holes.

I would assume that I should hear compression hissing out of the spark plug holes every time an apex seal passes it. Am I correct in assuming this?

My course of action now is going to be to save up for a rebuild kit, and buy a haltech. Does this sound like a good plan?

I also used a little penetrant to disloge the seals which didnt seem to work, cleaned it up (through the exhaust ports) and then poured in a little ATF, spun the rotors, waited a couple days and did it again. They are just as stuck as before.

I beleive its just a bit of surface rust holding them in. When I look inside the rotor housings, everything looks brand new aside from this.

Any tips/advice is GREATLY appriciated, thanks.

 

I think I have same problem (stuck seals) with my 13b 6port. I pulled the plug from T2 and you can hear loud compression pulses but with T1 plug pulled its three very weak pulses which I guess means two of the seals are stuck its soaking in MMO now but I wanted to no if I can poke at the seals through the exhaust port and try to free them up while spraying sea foam at them. Also is this only a temporary fix or will it happen again?

 

unfortinatly, it sounds like you have done all you can to free up the stuck seals.. at this point the best thing to do would be too pull the motor apart, put a new set of apex seals and a spring kit, you will be good to go since its a low mileage j-spec motor and you know the motor will run good

 

has the motor been sitting a long time? if yes then freeing up the seals the way your planning should work and as long as you drive the car regularly it shouldnt happen again.. keep me posted

 

the omp system will still work fine, even tho its no enough on the 12a motors and i reccomend pre mixing to get the amount of oil needed to lubricate the housings properly..
turnaround time is about a week on the nikki carbs, but right now its really busy at the shop so it might be longer.... the price is $200.00 plus shipping

 

cool,, im glad you figured it out!!

 

The motor hasnt been sitting at all. It drove perfectly and I parked it and two hours later I went to start it and it no power, backfired, shook, and front rotor had very weak compression

 

not good, time for a compression test

 

Robert, what should the floats be set at on a 48DCO and whats the best way to set it?

Thanks, Ed

 

Thanks! I kept looking at the situation like I was screwed.. . Not that with a little work I should have a strong, reliable, and pretty new (<18,000mi) motor. Perhaps a little outside perspective was all I needed.

Is a gasget set sufficient to replace my apex seals and springs, or would it be better to get the whole rebuild kit?
If the apex seals managed to freeze, who knows what other seals could have as well.

Since Ill be taking the motor down this far, I figure it would be a great time to order some kick *** parts. I have a killer downpipe, muffler and plan on using the factory twin turbos. With a haltech would 400bhp be a reasonable estimation of power and safe for the turbos?

I dont want to get rediculously crazy, but how much budget would the 450 - 500 HP range require?

 

Can I use 13b 6port housing rotors and crankshaft,(eccentric shaft), with 12a center and outer plates. Is there a big advantage to this aside from being able to brige port it or would it be better to just find a 13b 4 port motor

 

how muck would it cost me for a boost prepped nikki?

 

Ok, so the engine builder that built mine forgot or didn't put in the exhaust sleeves do to his porting. Now I heard I can use the appoxy(spelling) that people use when building p.port engines. I heard the appoxy can with stand the heat. I don't want to take the engine apart and do it that away because I am not that inclined about building rotaries. So what should I do because I really want the exhaust sleeves in, but I don't want to take the engine apart!?!?!

P.S. I shall be sending my carb and front cover to get prepped for boost!!!

 

slayerx7 I was in your same boat with ONE stuck apex seal. I used some mmo, seafoam, atf and all the liquid goodies. none of it worked for me either. so I got a pencil with the eraser half gone(rubbed flat)and just sat and pushed back and fourth with it and it broke loose. you could also use a piece of wood, but I would try the eraser. try for like 10 mins. when mine finally broke loose I was so fricken happy we went out to dinner and celebrated.

just keep it up before you tear it down. take literally 10 mins. I used some PB blaster and only shot it on the sticking seal. its really corosive stuff so only shoot the seal with a little bit. it will soak in with only a little.

good luck

 

Gave up on my motor and now Im about to buy a T2 that was rebuilt 5o miles ago. Seller says rear rotor oil seal is bad. Is this an easy repair? The motor will have to come apart but can the gaskets be reused since theyre fairly new? Any help is appreciated I just dont want to buy it and have two bad motors.

 

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Please help me out. Big klunk when aggressively shifting my 3rd Gen.

When driving normally or shifting normally I have no noise or problem. When shifting aggressively I get a "klunk' in what seems like the rear under the car.

I would like to narrow the problem down so I can go on with my summer. It has been suggested that it is the PPF (power plant frame) being cracked or damaged. It has also been suggested to be a bushing in the rear of the car above or behind the differential.

Any suggestions or confirmations of what the problem could be?

Maybe someone out there has experienced the same problem and has remedied it.

Any advice or suggestion are welcome and will be checked out and fixed if found to be the culprit. Maybe I'll just change/fix all suggested issues and hope for the best?


Thanks in advance,
Tim

 

hi there guys (and gals maybe)

im completely new to the rx7 scene,

just bought a white rx7 1993 jap import 50k on clock. great engine. Interior is a bit squeaky but whats new with these. Every on I went to look at rattled and creaked, but when you plant that gogo pedal. WOOOHOOOO squeaking it forgotten about!!!!! its enough to make anyone part with their hardearned.

Want to know what stock tech spec of the car is like torque, Hpower and how far i can go with it until i need to uprate anything?

help

 

ok....need some guidance, i have a 81 12a with what I've been told by the previous owner has ported secondaries.... I don't believe that anything too crazy has been done because the vehicle still starts first try and has a very smooth idle. Now that being said myquestion is, i'm thinkingof ditching the ole' nikki and going with a holley... I have a buddy with a couple of 600's laying around that need a rebuild (no problem) but i'm concerned that this may be a lil too much carb for my motor also i'm not sure about if there's any provision for the OMP.... i'd really like to not spend 800 dollars (give or take) for the RB set-up when i canget this carb for 50 bucks....any help would be appreciated....thanks