680RWHP12A

any questions? ask here and you will get help!

Latin270

None yet! Just wanted to post!

PaulFitzwarryne

Your advice should prove of great benefit to members. Just hope you do not get flooded out with newbie questions. Thanks and good luck.

regards Paul

However, I will start the questions. As you know I have a 85 12AT, a design which suffers from only 2 injectors, what would be your suggestion as to how to add two more and what size? The engine has the usual upgrades FMIC, FMOC etc.

680RWHP12A

have you tried adding a fmu? that would be the cheapest way to feed more fuel into your motor
here is a link to more info on the fmu and how it works

http://www.rotaryshack.com/Products/...p?intNotice=23

Tranquil

iTrader: (1)

Do you think I could do a double whammy job?

Would it be possible for me to fab a heat sheild for my headers and also make it able to grill me some grilled cheese?

680RWHP12A

absolutly!! but dont forget to use a non stick spray to prevent the cheese from sticking to your new heat shield!!

680rwhpbro

Do headers make a difference if you have a stock motor?

seanrot

iTrader: (2)

Do you think I will have a clearance issue here.


I started with a 1/2 npt tapped hole but I wasnt happy with the amount of material that was left so I grinded the rest out with a die grinder and installed a 10 an fuel cell fitting. looks good to me but not to sure about clearances. Also you wouldnt happen to have a block off plate for the OMP?

680RWHP12A

welcome to the rx7 club brad(my little brother)

in answer to your question, since your running the stock carb,you will get a small increase in power, but nothing really noticable for the money that you have to spend(in my opinion) run the straightpipe back to your primaflow and you will be fine!

680RWHP12A

as usual you did a very good job sean. -10 is a good size for a turbo oil drain(you can never go too big on a oil drain for a turbo or supercharged application) i dont see any clearence issues , should work great... make sure you clean the front cover well, you dont want any of those metal shavings hiding in the small oil passages as they could cause damage to your motor..

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

I've got my hands on a t2 intake manifold, but don't
know if it's s4 or s5 yet. I've got to wait till it
gets here to knw. I also have a RB upper intake
manifold that was on my gsl-se block. Will the t2
lower intake manifold fit the Racing Beat Gsl-se upper
inatke for my 45dcoe? If not how much is the upper
intake mani for a t2 lower? p.s. i weigh 250 and eat cheese with every meal.

680RWHP12A

250 and eat cheese every meal? niiiiiccce!!
the manifold you have is the same one i use for the s4 and s5 motors. to get your manifold to fit, just slot the mounting holes(a little bit) and whala, your manifold fits the s4///s5 manifolds!!

perfect_circle

what are your opinions on teflon encapsuled coolant seels?

680RWHP12A

i used those once, a customer supplied them for his engine build.. they are a different size, shape , diameter,material, that a original cooling seal.. so this changes the clearences in the motor when your torqueing the tension bolts during final assembly, this couldnt be good...they dont fit as good as the original cooling seals, so i would reccomend using the original parts for best fitment and staying within the factory tolerences..

perfect_circle

i understand your view point, but ive also heard of someone severely over heating the motor, then chiggin home, figuring the motor was toast, just to get home, to find out that everything was stil A-OKay.

so i suppose there are pros, and cons, as there are with everything. if you use them, you might survive an overheating(own fault usually) but have the motor not last as long, as apposed to OE parts that will last as long as you are careful.

680RWHP12A

if the motor gets that hot, the springs on the rotors get too hot also, and can flatten out, and as bad as warped apex seals too, no good... bottom line is... its not good to overheat your rotary motor..

southernrunner

Robert sent you email about some major carb help.

X_Facedown_X

Well im new to this whole forum thing so please bear with me. Ive got an '89 fc3s (non- turbo) And my fuel pump electrical lines were cut and subsequently pulled out of the car. I was wondering if you knew where the stock location would be for me to re-wire it to. And what materials i would be needed to do the job. Im totaly clueless. And every manual and/or person ive asked doesnt have a clue either. This is my first venture into the rotary world and im just trying to make a good start. Thanks.

680RWHP12A

please pm me with your phone # so i can call you when im in back of the car with the fuel pump cover removed, ill give you exact wire colors and where they go...

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

Soooo the dude with the s5 turbo manifold for me threw it away because he said I took to long to get it. ***, so I got a s4 n/a manifold and just by looking at it I can tell that my rb upper manifold doesn't bolt straight to it, but I was looking and can I drill and tap the s4na lower for the outside bolts? I'm about to give up on getting this engine...

680RWHP12A

drill and tap the lower manifold, i just mated your upper with a 4 lower(88) and you can't slot the holes...

snub disphenoid

I'm shooting for 400+rwhp in my FB, but I currently have a stock drivetrain mated up to a S5 TII block. Is there any way I can upgrade my drivetrain to handle drag radials/launches without bankrupting myself for the rest of the project?

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

It doesn't look as though if I slot the holes that it will work on the N/A lower manifold. I'll give it a go and see how it werks.

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

84-85 rearend had larger axles. Other than that prepair to be bank rupt.

666mike666

i would like to know what motor to get the 2nd gen 13BET motor ot the 3rd gen 13BETT motor?