I am doing an engine rebuild on my 86 na can you tell me how to get the hard plastic lines off the LIM and the block ? I have looked in my chilton book no diagram showing them.

 

im not sure if this has been posted yet have been looking under the search and have not come across it yet but im doing a t2 swap into my 84 fb i have the gsl rear end already in the car but was curious besides the obvious such as motor, trans, and drive shaft what all will i need for my swap to be complete?

 

Just unscrew the oiler injector plugs where the oiler line and vacuum meet at the LIM and block. Once the injectors are removed you can take off the collared line. I just did this so I could install a Rotary Shack intakes/carb set-up. Good luck.

 

I am doing a rebuild and I am planing on using the block off plate for the ACV because I won't be putting the air pump back on and I no longer have any pre-cats since I removed my old rusty exhaust. Also I don't plan on putting the A/C back on the car so won't need the BAC either. So I noticed a post by HAILERS. What would be the reason for blocking off the EGR as well just curious and what do you block the line for the hose with rubber caps? this is my first rebuild.

 

just got a fc.

so pretty much, prior to my purchase, the car was pretty much sitting at a yard for about 6 months.

problems:

1)tacometer only works some times.

2)fluctuationg idle at start up.
-runs up to 3k then goes down to 1-1.5k rpm

3)temp gauge isnt working

4)passenger power window dosent work.

5)there's a constant beeping
5 beeps, pauses, 5, continuous.

 

What info do you need for me to order a carb plenum besides the obvious "it's a weber". I'm 1700 miles away from my car and was just wondering if i can order it or if I need to wait till i get home to read numbers off of it or anything?

Thanks Robert!

 

I am in the middle of my rebuild I torn down the engine today to find that I lost all my apex seals on my rear rotar. On top that the rotar is trash along with the housing. I am looking at buying another rotar and housing. Accept they need to know the weight code of the rear rotar. My front one is a C code and the rear has a B code on it. The guys says that he thinks they are supposed to be matched and asked if the car has been rebuilt before as far as I can tell it has never been rebuilt. So do the codes have to be the same?

 

I want to rebuild my s4 TII transmission. Where can I find parts/kits for this? Also, is there any tutorials already in place?

 

he guy's i have a new 13 b 6 port with a street port in my 510 wagon my old 4 port motor it use to turn on. with this motor it just crank but don't start. i even try starting fluid that didn't work. ? lol
the car has all these new part's like.
ngk spark plugs
rb wires
msd 2 blaster coils
water pump
radiator
48 side draft dellorto
cap & rotor
rb full racing exhaust
please help i try everything i could think off.

 

Robert,

Any chance I can get a copy of the wiring diagram to hookup the 2nd gen trailing coils to a 1st gen distributor? Still waiting on the FI plug kit too.

Todd B.
Alabama
Your "Crazy Sauce" connection

 

Hello, i looking into boosting my 12a and staying with a carb. I dont wanna produce much power only around 150hp - 200hp. Now for how much is the nikki boost prepped ? I am thinking of pushing around 7-8 psi, do i need to re-jet? i live in miami fl so its not at a high altitude, i heard altitude makes a difference. The turbo manifold which one can i use if i wanna use a t4 turbo, can i use this one on the 12a? what do i need to modify to make it fit? please let me know this is the link. http://www.ssautochrome.com/level.itml/icOid/1357

How much do i have to advance or retard the dizzy for that amount of boost or if i get a locked dizzy from the shack do i need to mess with timing? I forgot to say can this hp be achieved on stock ports? Is the nikki enough for this amount of boost?

Thanks for the help in advance

 

I own an 86 n/a I am planning on bolting up a RB Road Race cat back to it. First off I would like to say that I already know how the back pressure works for the 5th and 6th ports and how air from the split pipe cools the cats. On the RB site it says that the tube coming off the header is for poper actuation. Even with that in mind do you still have to use the air pump can it be removed and still get proper function of the 5th and 6th ports? And if I am able to remove it with proper function what needs to be done?

Thanks

 

Normaly I wouldn't but in on something in someone else's thread, but Robert is a busy dude and this is easy...

to get the target 150 you only need about 25-30 horse's considering you're running good. going T4 is gonna cost you alot of cheese. start off with robert's prepped Weber and intake, and sell the nikki... you'll be close.

 

Toxindude,

Click on the vid that's the 6th one down from the top at this link:

http://www.rebuildingrotaryengines.com/videos/all

Josh

 

I'm looking to replace my stock worn exhaust. A sound slightly better than stock, a nice rumble.

I'm thinking about RB full exhaust w/ no cat, but I don't know what muffler I should pair w/ it.
Thanks in advanced.
Chris

p.s. I don't want it to be that loud.