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Old Nov 26, 2007 | 08:40 PM
  #426  
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From: nor cal!!
Originally Posted by 680RWHP12A
any questions? ask here and you will get help!
my coolant seals went bad but i heard there is a trick on how to fix them without a teardown but i cant find it its some substance you put in youre car to seal the housings??? also what is seafoam and wat are the benifits on using it?
Old Dec 2, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #427  
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From: Augusta, Ga.
I have an aggressive streetported 12a with 2mm seals, 3rd gen corner springs, RB intake with a holley 600. The housings are in awesome shape. The block is from an 85gsl and was very well taken care of, only having 70,000mi before the port and rebuild.
I've recently come across a good deal on a turbo setup. I'd never planned on boosting the car, so I want to be sure that I do what's necesary to keep my motor up to par. It's not a huge turbo. I'm guessing that it's probably from an older volvo or something. It's an airesearch turbo with an internal wastegate. I dont know what the size of the turbo is, but it has a 2" inlet and a 2.25" outlet. I pretty much have everything that I need to get this project rolling. I have all new flanges, gaskets, feed line, drain line, metering block, rising rate fpr, bov, downpipe, piping and fmic. About the only thing that I'm lacking, is the carb hat and boost guage
The main questions that I have right now are....

1.What fuel pump to use?
I have a holley red right now, but I do'nt see that giving me the extra pressure that I need for boost. I also have an aeromotive rising rate fpr.

2.Is there any way to test the setup before it's installed do determine the current boost setting?

3. With this being a smaller turbo, would a 2.5" exhaust be plenty?

Also any tips and suggestions are welcome. Thank you for your help!
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #428  
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From: nor cal!!
Originally Posted by ported12at
I have an aggressive streetported 12a with 2mm seals, 3rd gen corner springs, RB intake with a holley 600. The housings are in awesome shape. The block is from an 85gsl and was very well taken care of, only having 70,000mi before the port and rebuild.
I've recently come across a good deal on a turbo setup. I'd never planned on boosting the car, so I want to be sure that I do what's necesary to keep my motor up to par. It's not a huge turbo. I'm guessing that it's probably from an older volvo or something. It's an airesearch turbo with an internal wastegate. I dont know what the size of the turbo is, but it has a 2" inlet and a 2.25" outlet. I pretty much have everything that I need to get this project rolling. I have all new flanges, gaskets, feed line, drain line, metering block, rising rate fpr, bov, downpipe, piping and fmic. About the only thing that I'm lacking, is the carb hat and boost guage
The main questions that I have right now are....

1.What fuel pump to use?
I have a holley red right now, but I do'nt see that giving me the extra pressure that I need for boost. I also have an aeromotive rising rate fpr.

2.Is there any way to test the setup before it's installed do determine the current boost setting?

3. With this being a smaller turbo, would a 2.5" exhaust be plenty?

Also any tips and suggestions are welcome. Thank you for your help!
if its from a volvo i dont think youd have to worry about it boosting that high on stock setup volvos run like 7-9 psi stock and im preety shure a 12a can handle that 2.5 i run a 2.5 on my turbo 7 and i think it peformes better than my fat 3 inch i had and i dnt know about youre fuel pump i never boost high so i dnt worry
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:15 PM
  #429  
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I have a question! I have a 1st gen rx7 that my father and I just recetly rebuilt witht he Atkins Rotary Kit.

The Rx7 is a 12A that is completely stock but an electric fan.

Since the rebuild we have been unsuccessful in getting the timing just right.

Everytime the car is run to the reg temp, then shut-off, the car will not start back up until it cools off, and when the car is turned off, it backfires about 2-5 seconds after the last "puff" from the motor.

Slso we cannot get the car to idle under 2000rmp without it wanting to die on its own.
Any advice as to why it would do either of those things!?!?
~andrew
Old Dec 3, 2007 | 06:47 PM
  #430  
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From: Huntsville AL
Originally Posted by 2fast2rotar
I have a question! I have a 1st gen rx7 that my father and I just recetly rebuilt witht he Atkins Rotary Kit.

The Rx7 is a 12A that is completely stock but an electric fan.

Since the rebuild we have been unsuccessful in getting the timing just right.

Everytime the car is run to the reg temp, then shut-off, the car will not start back up until it cools off, and when the car is turned off, it backfires about 2-5 seconds after the last "puff" from the motor.

Slso we cannot get the car to idle under 2000rmp without it wanting to die on its own.
Any advice as to why it would do either of those things!?!?
~andrew
Carburetor.

Timing here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...34&postcount=2
Old Dec 4, 2007 | 02:28 PM
  #431  
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From: Concord, NC
Would you suggest the whole intake/carb from Racing Beat? I want to buy it, but do not want to drop over $800 if I dont need it. I think the timing is as close as possible though. But your sure???? (Thanks for the reply)
~andrew
Old Dec 8, 2007 | 05:34 PM
  #432  
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From: Granite Falls, Washington
Oil/ Oil pressure

Hey, I just recently got an 1993 FD and whenever I start the car it takes about ten minutes or longer for the oil pressure to drop to around 15 psi...Initially when the motor is turned on after sitting the oil pressure is up at over 120 psi...

Is this normal?

Also what type of oil is recommended for the 3rd generation twin turbo engine?

Thanks for your time,

Logan
Old Jan 7, 2008 | 09:22 PM
  #433  
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Originally Posted by arexse7en
Hey, I just recently got an 1993 FD and whenever I start the car it takes about ten minutes or longer for the oil pressure to drop to around 15 psi...Initially when the motor is turned on after sitting the oil pressure is up at over 120 psi...

Is this normal?

Also what type of oil is recommended for the 3rd generation twin turbo engine?

Thanks for your time,

Logan
What are the RPMs at idle, 120psi seem really high for idle. I think that is what I get when I am WOT.
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 05:07 PM
  #434  
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From: Montreal , Canada
what is a rotary suppoesd to sound like under the hood ? at idle ?
any specific , characteristic noises that indicare well / not so well operation?
thx ,
Old Jan 10, 2008 | 11:14 PM
  #435  
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a have a 93 fd with stock injectors..it started fine a few months ago before the repaint and rebuild of the charge pipes.. i cant get it to start...i have 40psi of fuel pressure, just no spark. could i have unplugged something when i took the intake manifold and throttle body off that would prevent it from getting spark.. i have a microtech lt8 but it started fine before and i havent tried to reprogram it.. any thoughts
Old Jan 24, 2008 | 11:45 PM
  #436  
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From: chatsworth,Ca.
Originally Posted by boostup
my coolant seals went bad but i heard there is a trick on how to fix them without a teardown but i cant find it its some substance you put in youre car to seal the housings??? also what is seafoam and wat are the benifits on using it?

re torque the housings my friend

keep us posted sir
Old Jan 25, 2008 | 12:04 AM
  #437  
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Re-torque as in to STOCK specs? A lil more?
Old Jan 27, 2008 | 02:19 AM
  #438  
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86 N/A Running very rough
I don't have a clue what this is now I was driving and went to exit the interstate car was running fine when all the sudden . The car started running very rough and then it died I bareley got it off the road . What happens is I go to start the car starts up then it sounds very off like it don't even sound like the same car more like a motorcycle or somthing . To keep the car running you have to give it gas and if the rpms go down to 1k the car starts shaking like crazy and then it dies . I barley got the car home I couldn't even get above 30mph and barley made it up hills . I was told it smelled like gas real bad behind it when I was being followed . So I changed out the plugs and no change it just feels like the car is only 1/4 running I have no clue
Old Jan 27, 2008 | 06:10 AM
  #439  
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What have you checked so far?

Compression?
TPS?
fuel?

You can't really ask a question like this unless you've already checked these things since your problem can be countless things. NARROW IT DOWN AND THEN ASK AGAIN. Do you have the FSM??? I'd you dont the GET IT.
Old Jan 27, 2008 | 01:00 PM
  #440  
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Originally Posted by phoenix7
What have you checked so far?

Compression?
TPS?
fuel?

You can't really ask a question like this unless you've already checked these things since your problem can be countless things. NARROW IT DOWN AND THEN ASK AGAIN. Do you have the FSM??? I'd you dont the GET IT.

Okay well ive checked the things listed above and they are fine . When I changed the plugs out I noticed the ones on the rear rotor were wet with fuel . So did I loose a coil pack .
Old Jan 27, 2008 | 04:27 PM
  #441  
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
Here it is the same thing problem this guy is having I posted a link to his vid below . Sounds the very same as mine Help please!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QG1Ko2JoyEc


Also there was a bad coil pack but didn't fix the problem at all .
Old Feb 3, 2008 | 05:08 PM
  #442  
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From: Easton (Palmer Twp) Pa
I had my engine rebuilt and i got under 300 miles in it. I was told to add oil in the gas tank, because this will make the seals stronger, the next time i fill it up. How effective is this? and how much oil and what type should i add?
Old Feb 3, 2008 | 05:23 PM
  #443  
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2 stroke oil they have types also for rotary but are $$ 1 oz per gal. is the mixture most use when not using the OMP
Old Feb 3, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #444  
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Ok, what is the OMP? is that the pollution emission stuff?
Old Feb 10, 2008 | 07:40 PM
  #445  
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OMP=oil metering pump. Now you can seach what it does.
Here's my question
I have an s4 motor, and I'm looking at an 84 se to swap it in to. Unfortunately, I can't find much info in search or the faq/archive. I know Id need the front cover from the se motor. What else?
Old Feb 10, 2008 | 09:37 PM
  #446  
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hey robert i tried to fire up the other n/a today but nothing happened i changed all fluids and put new plugs in and put gas in the car but when i went to crank it over nothing happened just heard what seemed to be fuel pump going but that was it even tried to deflood it and still nothing happened what should i do now . and no i dont think jesus juice can fix this .
Old Feb 11, 2008 | 08:08 PM
  #447  
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From: lompoc, ca
Here's a question... I want to do the 5 lug swap but I don't know if I need to upgrade the rear brakes. Is there a point for doing so or can I just leave the single piston calipers back there with the 5 lug rotors? And more over where can I find 5 lug hubs for the rear wheels? or am I just looking for the wrong name?
Old Feb 13, 2008 | 09:44 AM
  #448  
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From: Florida
7m-ge in FC. got any info/tips on that? lol

if you got no info on that, its cool.

i was wondering about how would i go about swapping a 13b non turbo with a s5 transmission from a 86 Hardtop into a 91 Vert.

like would the motor mounts need to be changed? wiring different? im not sure what i need to do to make it work perfectly
Old Feb 17, 2008 | 10:32 AM
  #449  
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From: Greece,Volos
Greetings to all.

I am about to install a new 13B jdm core (small block, without upper intake) in my turbo FC3C S5. What other parts (intake flanges, vacuum hoses, hinges, thingies etc) do i need to install it?

Also i will install a motoria exhaust with 80mm downpipe. Do i have to buy anything else in order to install it correctly to my stock turbo?Flange maybe?


Thanks in advance
Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:01 AM
  #450  
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k guys ive never messed with anything electical in a car before besides speakers and things of the such but how would i go about replacing a cigarette lighter? ive checked the fuses i dont know if its bad wiring or the lighter itself any advice?



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