Okay so two days after I had regrounded my ecu . My car started runnin bad again . If I easy the gas pedal slowly the car will get past 3800 but say its gotten past 3800 by easing the pedal well if I step on it the car bogs and will jolt in and out of bog ? What is wrong now is my boost sensor bad . I already checked the TPS its fine . Maybe my FPR I dunno I am workin on postin a vid you can check out .

 

I was trying to read the fd manual about the fuel thermosensor and the fuel pump relay. My car is giving me codes about them two parts. Isn't the fuel pump relay right by the diagnostics box? and the fuel thermosensor where is it? When I put on ignition in the on position how loud would the fuel pump relay sound?

 

i have a rebuilt 13bt atkins motor that only has about 5k on it...the engine sat for 4 months to do some upgrades and now once i have started it i have bad compression on the rear rotor but excellent on the front...do u think i could get away with just pulling the rear plate and fixing the rear rotor or would you do the whole thing?

 

I know that the fd's have problems with boost creep when the midpipe and exhaust is replaced. I was wondering how to fix this.

I now have a trust cat back and a petit DP with the stock midpipe still in. I know that if i take it out i will have creep problems and that is not what i want. I just got a wideband so i will be installing that soon, but until then i am running on the base map that the pfc supplies.

The ways that i have heard of so far to fix this problem are: port the wastegates, put a restricter plate in the exhaust, or well what everyone says....... get a single with a big waste gate haha. Are there any other ways because i want to get rid of the old mid pipe to get a little more volume out of the exhaust but at the same time not have to much flow....

If you could please pm me because i dont get on here to much due to internet limitations. Thanks again.

 

hello, thank you very much for this thread.

1. when is a FPR (fuel pressure Regulator for those who might not know) necessary in a 13B-T (s5 if it matters). I really don't know whether I need one (720cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, fuel piggyback).

2. would you recommend changing the fuel LINES with STOCK lines or use Stainless steel braided lines and fittings?

Thank you very much for providing such valuable time and advice to the rotary community.

 

do the whole thing.. is it still under warranty?, atkins does warranty thier product

 

you dont usally need a aftermarket fpr if your upgrading to 720 cc injectors but you will need a fuel piggyback to tune the bigger injectors

the stock fuel lines will work fine, no need to change them out unless they are damaged or rusted..
as far as braided lines and fittings go, you cant attach thost to the s5 fuel rails so your stuck with what you have now, unless you get a set od s4 fuel rails, but what you have will work fine for what your doing....

 

try changing out the pressure sensor, i bet thats it....its not the fpr for sure

 

perfect. Thank you very much.

 

i never mailed in the warranty info....how much price differance do you think there would be between doing just the rear or the whole thing?

 

HI! I am helping someone with a Gsl-se, and it does not want to start. Anyhow I am getting spark leading and trailing, getting continuity from signal wire to ecu pin"u". fuel pump comes on and I can hear fuel going thru the rails, 12v @ injectors, ecu ground are ok, I assume the trailing igniter is working from what ive read so far -switched negative signal wire on trailing to negative on leading still no start, tach is bouncing when cranked. But the injectors dont seem to pulsate to allow fuel in. All fusible link have continuity as well. plugs are ok no sign of fuel in combustion chamber, it ran fine then all of a sudden it didnt want to start. thanks! any info would greatly help!

 

HI! I am helping someone with a Gsl-se, and it does not want to start. Anyhow I am getting spark leading and trailing, getting continuity from signal wire to ecu pin"u". fuel pump comes on and I can hear fuel going thru the rails, 12v @ injectors, ecu ground are ok, I assume the trailing igniter is working from what ive read so far -switched negative signal wire on trailing to negative on leading still no start, tach is bouncing when cranked. But the injectors dont seem to pulsate to allow fuel in. All fusible link have continuity as well. plugs are ok no sign of fuel in combustion chamber, it ran fine then all of a sudden it didnt want to start. thanks! any info would greatly help!

 

ok i have a question. You may have already answered this before but i got tired o searching for it. what is the fix for the 3800 hesitation? I have one i am working on at the shop and the secondary injectors are not comming on.

 

Regrounding the ground wires at the ECU seemed the best solution to me . It could also be grounds under the hood . I dunno what year the car is your workin on but these two links may help with the grounding under the hood and the second link shows where the ground wires are on the harness's to the ECU . Its located on the passenger side where your feet would rest you have to pull back the carpet and remove the panel that covers the ECU . You will notice after you follow the wires up the harness that the factory crimps are pretty much crud you may have to pull back the wire cover a ways to see where all the crimps are . Alot of people recommend soldering them back together . I have also heard that the 5TH/6TH ports can be clogged or the Throttle postion sensor is bad or needs to be adjusted also the fuel pump might not be holding pressure . The boost sensor can be bad fuel filter clogged . I just suggest checking out the grounding stuff first since is better than going out and spending money on things you may not need when it could just be the grounds and its very inexpensive . Thats pretty much all I know anyone else will probably know more I am just going on links that were given to me by people that helped me out alot when regrounding .

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

http://mazdarx7.iougs.com/faqidle.shtml

 

I have a new question hope this is an appropriate time and thread to ask? I am noob but I’m not sure if this is a noob question.

Around 3000-4500rpm depending on how long the car has been running my car bogs down. my Microtech says it is going way lean but my o2 sensor is not wide band so who really knows.

I was wondering if it is because I upgraded my secondary injectors to 800cc or if it were something else.

The longer I drive it the sooner it bogs down.

My turbo spools up very quickly because of my 3" intake inducts and my racing beat exhaust. I did not know if I just wasn't getting enough fuel while spooling in low rpms and then being at full boost when it is around 2500-3000rpm. Maybe that boost response is normal but it was better than I expected.

This is the first time I have been driving the car it has taking me 6 months but I bought a broken 87tII rx7 and did a 89-91 jmd turbo engine swap. Never really worked on cars but I think it came out all right.

I don’t know what all info is needed so I will give you a list of my mods.

Stock turbo
biltz bov
removed air pump and power steering pump
made a 3" pvc induct & purchesed a apexi cone filter removed afm
walbro 255 fuel pump
800cc secondaries
raceing beat exaust
micrtech Ecu 4x ignition
msd ss coils
rewired fuel pump
have a FMIC but not installed yet trying to learn to tig weld
basic tune up
new platnum nkg plugs, msd wires, fuel filter,
oil and filter change, flushed rad, new o2 sensor.

I have been reading everything I can get my hands on about the car and that is what has got me this far. But tuning this microtech is very complicated.

what should I do first lean it out or make it richer? Should I use matrix mode or normal mode?

Any help suggestions or constructive criticism would be wonderful. I do know that a Microtech specialist should tune the car but I have spent all my savings and every paycheck for the last six months trying to get this car going but I cant afford to pay anyone to tune it for me as of now. I did not know it would take this long or cost this much but this is my only car and I need to be able to drive. so if I can get some help getting it tuned to a safe drivable level it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Well I changed out the pressure sensor today and still no change . How do you know if your ECU is bad . And does anyone know where I can buy two new air pump actuators you know they sit on the passenger side of the engine . Somthing else I am wondering when I regrounded the ECU there was a grey wire okay it ran down to the connector end that plugs into the ECU well about a 1/4 of the way up the wire goes from black to grey then right where it goes black to grey there is some I guess you could say exposed silver wire that comes out of the grey side and splice's to the black ground wire . Hopfully the image below will help . Sorry I dont have a camera lol

 

i have a fc with 13b na, and i want to turbo it ,would i have to put t2 tranny and rear end or should i just do a t2 engine swap please.... pm

 

Correct me if im wrong I own an 86 N/A doesnt the engine rely on back pressure from the exhaust to kick in past 3800 . I ask this because I noticed today that my rear catalytic converter the one that has the back pressure line hooked up to it yeah it has a pretty good leak if I hold my hand below it . Its pretty big from the feel of it I havent looked at how big it actually is but i think its right above the back pressure line . So could this be my actuall problem ?

Sorry I ask so many questions this car is a learning experience for me lol .

 

wat would i have to change in order to drift and mess around with out breaking anything

 

Thanks Robert for this thread.

Wanted:
220-250 RWHP
Advice on which turbo to buy
Advice on BOV

Got: Freshly rebuild Streetported 12A with all the oil mods.
OER 45mm carb
Turbo plenum for the OER
Read through most of the searced topics on blowthrough carb set-ups

I know absolutely NOTHING about turbo A/R and so on, i know how it works and such.
What A/R ratio turbo would i need to buy to be able to achieve my hp goal?
What BOV should i buy?

I was thinking a stock TII Hitachi turbo would do the trick, correct?

 

the hybrid turbos i sell would make the power your looking for easily, 230-250 on a stock turbo is pushing it....
as far as bov the best choice would be whatever you like, hks, greddy, and my favorite being tial.. stay away from the china crap please.. the rest of your setup sounds good! are you planning on intercooling?

 

Yes It will be intercooled, most likely a V-mount, which leads me to the next question.

Pressurepipe diameter?

Thanks
Kim

P.S.
I heart Your work.

 

I wanted to do a 5-lug conversion for my base model 1987 rx-7 4 lug. I was wondering what I was going to need if I needed anything besides the rotors from a 5 lug rx-7. Thanks in advance.

 

robert when do you think you can fix my a/f my idle is fucked up but still drivable i cleaned up my new ,:used throttle body and squirted some jesus juice i think it helped but let me know when you can take a look at it.

oh and i say yes to the vegas thing! take her for as long as possible!

Turbo 2 bitches!

 

nice
2-1/2" pipe diameter is perfect for your setup

thanks