i just buy a RB header and i want to know why i have to remove the air pump and the air conrol and check valve assembly and what will be the effect on this procedure. and what will be the effect on the air intake. i have a 86 rx7

 

I was hoping that you might be able to help with an acceleration problem i've been having.

I just dropped in a newly rebuilt streetported 12A into my 83 gsl, it has a new holley 465 direct from racing beat. Some more of the mods are listed in my sig.

The problem i'm having is this
At idle, cruise, and wot my air/fuel mixture is nice and rich just on the left most green LED if you are familiar with the simple 130$ edelbrock setup

But when transitioning from cruising to accelerating the a/f mixture leans out, this happens at about 1/8th throttle.

If I quickly dip into the throttle from cruising or rest she hesitates for about 1-2 secs (lean) and then the mixture becomes it's normal rich again but will lean out again when I let off.

I was thinking that this might be an accelerator pump issue... or am I missing some other a/f adjustment?

Any thoughts you may have would greatly help... I'll be talking to racing beat shortly... more sources of info always helps

have a good one

Pete

 

Im in the process of boosting my 12a i know im supposed to tap the front cover below the omp for the return but were should i tap for the feed line

 

Hey Robert,

Got the intake all installed and got my throttle linkage all set up good and got a return spring on there and all that. I did what you said as far as tuning it. i turned each mixture screw in slowly until it struggled to run then turned them out until it idled smoothly. one at a time then did it twice. i havent messed with the accelerator pump yet. I am very impressed with the high end power and throttle response. however at idle if i give it full throttle it will almost die. im not sure if its getting not enough fuel or too much. Ive tried backing out the screws half turns at a time and its all still the same. Also what should i be idling at? 800-1000 i think. just wondering what i have to do so that i can punch it from dead stop and just go not have to go half throttle till about 3 grand. also when cruising at a constant speed it missed and spits and sputters. while accelerating its good. I have a streetport motor, RB header, 2.5 in exhaust, RB dual pulleys, new mazda cap and rotor, Ultra wires, MSD balster 2 coils, NGK single ground iridium plugs (BR8EIX) i believe. WHat do i need to do to tune this bad boy or do i need something i dont have. I know you said you were sending a manual for the carb so maybe that will help but im sure you have more knowledge that a manual...

Thanks!
Josh

 

Hi and thanks for the help ahead of time...

I have a 13b turbo rx7 with a t70 garret turbo and i intend running a max of 21 to 22lbs of boos on the car, the motor is new and i have a MICROTECH LT10 with the X4 ignition cotroller, i was just wondering if you can help find the right O2 sensor, i know i need a wide band but i dont want to buy one of those $400 dollar ones if my EMS can run it itself, i was just hoping to see if you could recommend some items please AGAIN THANK YOU I REALLY APPRECIATE IT..

Vic

 

i have a huge problem i have a 81 rx7 and for some reason when the car runs it runs well but as soon as i shut it off the battery dies..? do i maybe have a poor ground?? any ideas??

 

I will be running dual DHLA 40mm carbs on a SP 13b before to long using the pierce manifold. Any idea where to start at for jetting?

 

Brake problems... Need Help..
Alright guys, I've done brakes on Hondas and Acuras, etc, but I seem to be having this problem with my FD rear brake. I replace the old warp rotors with new cross drill rotors and replace the pads. My problem is, when I take to break it in, I've notice that my breaks do not break as well as it should. I thought it might be a poor job bleeding my brakes, so I went back and bleed it all over, starting from the farthest one from the brake cylinder. Thats when I notice that my rear rotors, show a where my brake pads are actually clamping onto when I brake. It is only clamping on the outer half portion of my rotor and not clamping on completely onto the full contact surface of the rotor. My front seems to be fine, but I notice my rears are both like that. Any advise on what I might have did wrong during my break replacement. I do notice that the rear brake caliper is different from the front, for I had to turn it clockwise, "if I remember right" to retract? Any help would be appreciated, and again, my description is not very good, but please help if anyone may know of something.

 

ok... those two first gens a few lines up....

first guy,
I would check the grounds. I had a big problem with the grounds in one of mine. I would check the ground connection to the frame. It is on the driver side on the wheel well. get to it through the engine compartment.

second guy, START SLOW!!!!
seriously, its not worth blowin the new setup up. unless you want to spend a shitton of money and get a new engine... whatever... i don't know your financial situation....

 

Pushed the old 90 rx out of the garage and took it to the dealer. He said due to the scan codes 17, 26,27 and 33 I ought to junk it. So, with a few suggestions from Fujori Turner of Phoenix, I'm doing the oil to fuel mix. I guess I'm at a loss as to how I get the OMP to stop putting the system in Limp Mode. Can the sensor be defeated with a resistor ?

 

ok, i drive an 86....first, my add coolant light came on, so i added coolant. then, when i start it up, the light stays on and i have to hear that god awful sound. also, when i start my car, there is hesitation, it idles really low and sometimes white smokes comes out of the exhaust, can you help me?

 

I can't say that I've built a rotary engine from the ground up.... but I know a little from when I was working on reciprocal engines. That is pretty much every symptom of a blown head gasket. With a rotary I would tend to think it might be a blown side housing gasket... especially if it sat for a while and the gaskets dried out.

Here's how to check: start the car and let it warm up. Once its warm remove the radiator cap. (the car needs to be running, and you might want to use a towel or glove or something.) If there is no problem you will see a relatively calm flow. If an interior gasket is bad, the flow will be interrupted with bubbles and white smoke.

It seems to me like if thats the case your going to need at least an engine blueprint. That will replace the gaskets and other smaller parts and give a trained specialist the chance to take a closer look to see if anything else is wrong.

please keep in mind I haven't ever done this with a rotary, only a piston driven engine.

good luck to you, and please let me know how it turns out!

 

you can use a simple brass "T" where the factory oil pressure sensor goes or you can buy a oil filter block kit from billy. either way will work fine

 

have you tried replacing the omp? with a good used one that is..
or you could always put a carburator on it and throw away the fuel injection. or megasquirt for a cost affective way to fuel inject it

 

I'll be pickin up a 1992 3rd gen efini rx-7 in a few days with 84km and i've been checkin on multiple forums about maintenance. The car is bone stock nothing out of the ordinary under the hood. I've had a few friends that have had rx-7's before and the only thing i've been getting told is changing the apex seals from 2mm to 3mm. Looking around on different forums i'm seeing more and more of keeping the 2mm cause they seal better. Anyways just looking for tips on what i should be lookin for and other maintenance i should do. I plan on keeping it stock until i get back to the U.S. So any advice will be greatly appreciated

 

i want to purchase a bov. does anyone know if the bov has to be recirculated or it can be vented to the atmosphere?

 

Have you ever sucessfully used a 12A FB's return line with a high rate pump and Mallory 4309? On my last turbo car I couldn't get fuel pressure below 7 Psi until I ditched the line and made my own return. Right now I'm running a Holley Blue & FPR. It's still na but I was going to ditch the shity Holley FPR and throw in my Mallory, but I'm worried the return line won't work again, and I haven't been able to find SE lines anywhere.

 

I have an 87 rx with an 88 turbo 2 swap when i start to hit boost it brakes up

 

it is street ported w/ 3 inch down pipe to a qtp cutout custom air intake w/ aem fuel pressure regulator / turbo 2 fuel pump stock

 

hey i would greatly appreciate any and all help. i hav an 86 fc that is overheating on me. it had a loss of power and after running for few minutes overheats. it has a new radiator,caps, and i was told water pump and thermostat but cant be positive. doesn smoke at all but after running for a few minutes coolant will be boiling hot and spray out of the overflow tank. any help would be appreciated or likely ideas as to what the problem is.

 

check the fan clutch , should have some tension on it , with the car off spin it by hand if it spins real free change it , i run my t2 with no thermastat and i have custom fan shroud w/ 16 " electric fan , car never gets hot

 

hey guys can you help me? I think i have a vaccum leak. Here is a video explaining What the prob is

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PQlg7OfFph8

 

has anyone put a 6 speed manual from an RX8 into an RX7?

 

get an aem wideband o2 meter, or some type of active o2 meter.. your car is either severly lean or rich. with tthe wideband installed, it will help you determine what the problem is , then make the appropriate changes from there.

 

yes seveal times