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Best performance
I hace an 89 S5 N/A GTU, I love it but for some reason I dont feel the power it is supose to have. I have a header on it and a cone airfilter. I believe the cat may be cloged and was wondering how I would go about seeing if it actually is. Also what mods could I do, Short from removing the engin, to get me up to something like 180 hp or higher.
Engine dies
My 1983 RX 7 wants to die when I it needs more power/rpms's for uphill roadways. It will usually restart after I use the manual choke. It also tends to buck, jerk, and lose power quickly once it dies and restarts. Any ideas on where to start? I have only had the car for a couple of months. I'm in the process of restoring it. I'm thinking maybe a fuel filter, vaccum, or gas line issue. Thanks for your thoughts.
Neal K
Neal K
Rearview mirror assembly
Anyone out there have a rearview mirror assembly they want to get rid of. I need the mirror/doomlight assembly that mounts to the ceiling. It is for a 1983 RX7.
My 1983 RX 7 wants to die when I it needs more power/rpms's for uphill roadways. It will usually restart after I use the manual choke. It also tends to buck, jerk, and lose power quickly once it dies and restarts. Any ideas on where to start? I have only had the car for a couple of months. I'm in the process of restoring it. I'm thinking maybe a fuel filter, vaccum, or gas line issue. Thanks for your thoughts.
Neal K
Neal K
change the fuel filter, that should fix your problem

i do have a mirror assembly. $40.00 shipped
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,972
Likes: 37
From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
whats up rob, got a couple problems for ya to help me out w/... they all happen the same time after some "spirited" driving or long WOT acceleration
1.after several hard shifts/throttle slams ie. drag racing, my idle went up to about 2000-2200 RPM and stayed there until i physically pushed the throttle cable bracket back, then it idled fine at 900 rpm. when i drove back home (nicely) the idle would be back up to anywhere between 1500-2000 rpm when ever i came to a stop (i really hope i didn't bend the throttle shaft
) im gonna see if it still does it tommorow when i start it cold
2. I also noticed that a little liquid fuel was pooling up inside the barrels, underneath the venturis, along w/ a little fuel in the vent even after driving consevatively for 15 min., which i would expect to of cleared it out
3. lastly, is it to be expected that my exhaust shoots foot long flames for 10-15 seconds a piece whenever I engine brake, for about 5-10 mins after a good beating?
. I knew she ran rich, but this is absurd
what do you think the cause for all this is?
fuel pressure is set to 3 psi, pump is a holley RED and the rest of the mods are in my sig
1.after several hard shifts/throttle slams ie. drag racing, my idle went up to about 2000-2200 RPM and stayed there until i physically pushed the throttle cable bracket back, then it idled fine at 900 rpm. when i drove back home (nicely) the idle would be back up to anywhere between 1500-2000 rpm when ever i came to a stop (i really hope i didn't bend the throttle shaft
) im gonna see if it still does it tommorow when i start it cold2. I also noticed that a little liquid fuel was pooling up inside the barrels, underneath the venturis, along w/ a little fuel in the vent even after driving consevatively for 15 min., which i would expect to of cleared it out
3. lastly, is it to be expected that my exhaust shoots foot long flames for 10-15 seconds a piece whenever I engine brake, for about 5-10 mins after a good beating?
. I knew she ran rich, but this is absurdwhat do you think the cause for all this is?
fuel pressure is set to 3 psi, pump is a holley RED and the rest of the mods are in my sig
I'm trying to rebuild a turbo II that suffered an engine fire. I was woundering if and how hard it would be to remove the emmisions. I live in Idaho where there is no emmision laws, and I read somewhere that you must remove emmisions before installing a NOS system. I figued I should remove it now while I have the motor apart. Any pointers would be much appritiated.
Thanks, Treeman.
Thanks, Treeman.
I have been working on fixing 3800 hesistation for a week now . I have an 86 N/A in the last week I have put new stock injectors on it it has a K&N air intake . I have regrounded everything under the hood . I checked my 5th/6th ports checked the two actuators on the lower intake one had a wasps nest on it good thing it was dead clean them up they seemed to work fine . I have the stock pump I havent checked the pressure because I dont have a guage to . the car seems to get fuel just fine . I put spark plug wire seperators on it to prevent arcing . check the plug wires new fuel filter new FPR new TPS . Now I havent check the grounds at the ECU since I havent had time the injectors connections are clean and fit snug . Now I can rev it past 3800 just fine . Its when I am at speed I hit 3800 hold it there then it will come out go up to 4800 or so the go back in and out an in . I did a test to make sure the acutators were working to they work . The rest of the car is pretty much stock . I just wanna know if you guys have any suggestions ? Oh and where does the boost sensor brown and red ground wire ground out at I cant tell since it goes into the tapped up wire harness ?
Last edited by Toxindude; Jun 26, 2007 at 07:28 PM.
[nope, what is a modulator ring? ive never heard of those before]
A modulator ring is in effect kind of a "pre-venturi" venturi. I know that makes no sense, but it is a ring that is smaller than the carb opening, mounted where the velocity stacks are originally placed. It causes more of a drop in pressure in the carb throat while . So in effect you are raising the pressure in the floatbowl faster than in the carb throat. It just helps richen the mixture under boost as I understand it, but I wasn't sure if I needed them. I made some, and they work, but my mixture goes super rich in the lower rpms, and it's in the thirteens when I get to about 3500 rpm on up (whenever the main jets kick in)... I think that either I need to throw the modulator rings out, make them bigger so the pressure differential is not so drastic, or go with smaller idle jets and bigger air jets on the idle jets...
what do you think?
A modulator ring is in effect kind of a "pre-venturi" venturi. I know that makes no sense, but it is a ring that is smaller than the carb opening, mounted where the velocity stacks are originally placed. It causes more of a drop in pressure in the carb throat while . So in effect you are raising the pressure in the floatbowl faster than in the carb throat. It just helps richen the mixture under boost as I understand it, but I wasn't sure if I needed them. I made some, and they work, but my mixture goes super rich in the lower rpms, and it's in the thirteens when I get to about 3500 rpm on up (whenever the main jets kick in)... I think that either I need to throw the modulator rings out, make them bigger so the pressure differential is not so drastic, or go with smaller idle jets and bigger air jets on the idle jets...
what do you think?
I have been working on fixing 3800 hesistation for a week now . I have an 86 N/A in the last week I have put new stock injectors on it it has a K&N air intake . I have regrounded everything under the hood . I checked my 5th/6th ports checked the two actuators on the lower intake one had a wasps nest on it good thing it was dead clean them up they seemed to work fine . I have the stock pump I havent checked the pressure because I dont have a guage to . the car seems to get fuel just fine . I put spark plug wire seperators on it to prevent arcing . check the plug wires new fuel filter new FPR new TPS . Now I havent check the grounds at the ECU since I havent had time the injectors connections are clean and fit snug . Now I can rev it past 3800 just fine . Its when I am at speed I hit 3800 hold it there then it will come out go up to 4800 or so the go back in and out an in . I did a test to make sure the acutators were working to they work . The rest of the car is pretty much stock . I just wanna know if you guys have any suggestions ? Oh and where does the boost sensor brown and red ground wire ground out at I cant tell since it goes into the tapped up wire harness ?
I need help!!
i bought a 1988 RX recently it didnt run when i got it. so far ive got it to start but it idles very rough when i give it gas it revs up for a second then dies then floods out. my dash gauges dont work either do you think it could be my cpu?


