30mpgfc

Well I don't think there is a fuel pressure sensor on the rail so I think the ECU just send preprogrammed commands to a fuel system computer for certain conditions. Basically unless it's leaning out the ECU won't know a difference. It would probably throw a code for lack of communication with a fuel control module.

PerroCaliente

Wait the newer mustangs don't have a fuel pressure sensor? That's interesting. My old 2000 Mustang returnless system does. Weird.

30mpgfc

Not that I know of

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for late response I was outta the country for a minute.
Yes, it is as 30mpgfc said. I run 55psi static and no vacuum/boost reference.
This is as per Justin's recommendation at LPFbuilt.com and he's the expert I assure.
I do not run the fuel control module and it's not needed. It does quite a bit of functions
but mostly to tank pressures and emissions. I'm sure my emissions are well below what the factory RX7 engine did back in the day.
Cheers

30mpgfc

So an adjustable FPR without vacuum? Like a distributor without vac advance?

PerroCaliente

I didn't realize there was a fuel control module. Is it like a smaller computer? There's so much I don't know about the newer ford engines and architecture etc. uggghhh. That's why I came here, you guys are the only ones swapping these engines that I've found. The mustang community either does V8s or just modifies the old 3.8/4.2 pushrod v6 (meh).

PerroCaliente

Where did you source your motor and trans from for so cheap? Or how do you find them? I've looked online and can't find anything less than a grand basically

30mpgfc

My motor is a FWD explorer/escape/Taurus motor with a mustang oil pan($100). My valve cover($85) was broke and a variable timing solinoid as well($54). I have no alt, starter, either brackets, drive by wire throttle, exhaust manifolds etc. Only plus on my swap was the cost and the low mileage(less than 50k)

30mpgfc

If you are seriously considering this swap you're going to need $5-$10k, adequate welding and electrical skills. Also a bit of enginuity. For a cheaper route on the mt82 ID suggest the 2013 GT flywheel and clutch. From what I understand you'll need a one inch spacer for the slave cylinder and smaller flywheel bolts(I think the FWD flexplate bolts are short enough). The stock 3.7/mt82 flywheel costs over $700 from Ford and is a heavy dual mass POS, GT is $177. If you cannot source wiring from your engine supplier you can get it from ford, not sure on the price, expect to pay $150-$800. For fuel ID suggest the walboro 450lph, has a bit more pai rating than the stock ford unit but way more lph. Also the 450 is e85 compatible if you want to go that route. I'd suggest an aeromotive universal fpr rated at 30-70psi. The 450 might be a bit much for the fpr but I'm not sure. You'll definitely need a driveshaft shop to custom make you a driveshaft.

PerroCaliente

Also how are you handling the clutch setup? And you need a fuel pump with that much capacity? Dang.

30mpgfc

I plan on turbocharging after about a year, so the upgraded fuel pump will help in the long run.

PerroCaliente

Yea I'm basically just trying to get a Complete idea of what's necessary to do this parts wise and how it all goes together. I don't think I mentioned it but I actually own a 2000 Mustang and I want to swap this engine into it but the Ford community is not much help. Only one guy ever tried and his build stalled out. So I came here to learn from you guys how all of this goes together.

30mpgfc

Mach.80's swap is a mustang 3.7 W/6r80(I think) auto trans. It is a little more straight forward than the mt82. One thing I do not know is how I am going to do my shifter, my trans didn't come with a shifter assembly, this may cost me a lot in the long run.

30mpgfc

You'll need the motor, trans, ECU, harness, probably custom motor & trans mounts and you'd have to find your own options for driveshaft. The 6r80 option might be better for you as you won't be limited by shift position.

PerroCaliente

Unfortunately auto isn't an option. I'm a manual only guy. I'll figure out how to make the shifter work somehow. I wish I could just keep my cable clutch. I hate hydraulic clutches so much haha. Call me oldschool I don't care. I would need the engine harness and the pedal and the trans harness and the underhood wiring/fusebox too from what I gather. How are you guys getting your driveshafts done? Any particular company?

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

Yes. Your tuner will calibrate your fuel injectors accordingly.

I'm finishing the details on the water lines and and other small details and should have dyno numbers within a couple of weeks. Unfortunately, with the 4.10:1 rear diff gear,
It'll skew the dyno numbers a little low. I will most likely try a 5th gear run to see if that
will correct the issue. Either way, we'll see.

As of now I'm playing the waiting game on parts.

30mpgfc

4.10:1 wow what's the ratio on 1st gear? Does the 6r80 have a manual shift mode?

Cristiano Dos Santos

i'm surprised that there are so many swap kits on the net , and v8 would look amazing but i really want mazda engine , and the 3.7l v6 with 300 stock hp seems great , i have no need for more than 400, 450 whp so a v8 that gets super expensive to swap and almost as bad mpg as the rotary , but at this point ,before starting the build, i´m open to any possibilities and the swap kits available are a good option to consider, but to my surprise there aren't any swaps for mazda engines considering that they have good engines and that they are working with ford on those engines why not use one

Cristiano Dos Santos

so i have a 1991 turbo II with a POS engine and no mechanics who can repair it , i live in Portugal and it´s not exactly a rotary friendly place so unfortunately i have to swap the engine for something else and i´m planning a swap with a 3.7l v6 from other mazda models but actually a cyclone (FORD) engine , i want to stay with mazda engines , kinda, and this looks like a good choice , but i´m planning on doing it with the stock gearbox and rear end to keep it as close to original as possible and not have problems with shifter placement and i do like the way that gearbox feels when driving, the car only has 110,000 kilometers, that´s 68.000 miles and the gearbox looks perfect , as for the setup i already have a intercooler kit, i´m using twin garret´s gt 28´s and a haltech ecu , the wheels are momo racing 17" 245 in the back and 225 in front, if anybody has advice for me i would be thankful,

PerroCaliente

How are you going to tune/setup that ecu for it?

30mpgfc

So let me understand what you want better. You want to connect the 3.7 with your existing 5-speed? You'll need a custom bellhousing for that, also a custom clutch setup. You want to turbocharge it but don't want to swap the diff? Well say bye bye diff in about 15,000km. I'm willing to bet that your haltech doesn't support twin independent variable valve timing or have a flex fuel sensor. No offense but your post sounds like you're some 15 year old kid who just got done watching Miss Daisy on McM

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

I'd say, from Portugal, and your English is that good? That's amazing! There's no chance he's a 15yr old with vocabulary, punctuation and grammar all spot on in ESL.

Nevertheless, my build is held up by water lines. Hopefully they will come in soon.

30mpg, the ratios are:
FORD...1st=4.17...2nd=2.34...3rd=1.52...4th=1.14.. .5th=0.86...6th=0.69
MAZDA.1st=3.48...2nd=2.15...3rd=1.39...4th=1.00... 5th=0.76...............
So, if you compair to the FC trans it covers a wider range.
Once I change the rear to the 8.8, I'll go to a 3.30 or so rear gear.
also to answer another question, yes, I do have manual shift mode.

Back to Cristiano, my recommendation is to swap your vehicle with a engine that has better support.
For example the Roninspeedworks.com FC to LS swap. This IS you best bet.
As far as I know, there is only one successful 3.7 swap. And I had lots of help.

By the way has anyone seen my hood???

and you still want to swap???

Its a monster! And your ok with that???

Let me know for real

.

mach.80

iTrader: (2)

By the way you could NOT bring down the engine any more. The oil pan will hit the steering rack.
As you can see in the pic the oil pan is level with the subframe.
I did lowered my subframe 3/4" with spacers. So far I haven't noticed any difference in handling what so ever.
Xcessive Front Frame Spacers for Mazda RX7 FC3S - Enjuku Racing Parts, LLC
There is a 2JZ-GTE swap part for lowering the subframe which is 1" Its well thought out and cheep enough.
I do however, want to go and make a subframe to chassis undercar X brace.
Hopefully now that I have finished up some job advancement tasks, I'll finally get to a
build sheet thread that'll answer any qusetions and kinda archive whats been done here.

Cheers,

Joe

Cristiano Dos Santos

so , no i´m not 15 , i´m 37 and my english is good because i lived in england, france and belgium before coming back to portugal, i left portugal after 4 years in the army and had a opportunity to work in england, by the way miss daisy and mcm don´t really go together

30mpgfc

this video is what I was referring to about miss Daisy.