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Well i guess I'll be verifying my Notification settings, as I didn't get any of these updates. and as a result, I've been MIA for a while ...
Awesome to see more and more of these projects going on. I'm looking forward to seeing them completed (well .. as completed as they get, hah)
@30- I would highly recommend the "shorty" headers and down-tubes in a swap application. it's what i ended up running on my 240, and they actually fit extremely well, they had a different departure than the stock headers did, and actually made my life a lot easier. The outlet also tucked closer to the block in my case (Yay cheap china stuff that "doesn't fit right")
@Laminar and 30 - thanks for the weights! - ill have to recalculate what i think my car weighs now, hah
A couple of Images, One of the header fitment on the "problem side" - still needed a bit of hammer clearance-ing to get around the steering shaft, but it was MILES better than stock.
and a pic from the first time i drove my car to work.
@2fordy I'll consider the shortys, ill reference the bbk numbers when I finally get my mustang 37 set in place.
I'm realllllly hoping my gf got me the ronin 8.8 swap kit for xmas so i can set my driveline angle. I've been on some other stuff lately, saved $100k so far to build the house and invested in gamestop, hopefully I can retire before 40 so I can work on all my projects. After the rx7 i gotta restore a 95 k3500(probable built duramax swap, 1gzfe(12 cyl) swap the '12 lexus is250, build the gf a 69 shelby gt500 replica, and lastly I want a 69 lincoln cont 4 door low rider style.
For what it's worth - i got my headers from Amazon, the cheap ones. I'm sure the BBK ones are nice, and the price difference has a lot of merit, but in my case i wasn't sure how they'd fit, so i wasn't spending the 400-500 dollars to potentially have them not work.
Sounds like you have quite the project list (also read as "sounds like all of us" hah)
i definitely 2nd the Continental. But for now, while my garage space limits me, ill keep making the 240 closer and closer to what i want it to be.
did you ever do the wiring right up? I got my 76 Maverick and I have the engine transmission wiring ECM exedra
What are you looking for exactly, i may be able to help ?
i did find the manual in the below link MASSIVELY helpful for my swap. Though it's a bit clunky to navigate (all pages etc are links in the top left) but after you get past that, its great
I'm doing a Ford Maverick swap I have all the engine and battery wiring with the starter wiring alternator wiring I also have the fuse box a pretty good chunk of wiring from the fuse box the pigtail from the fuel tank and from the throttle pedal obviously the ECU and the engine and transmission I didn't have time to get the whole harness because they was about to crush the car I have several questions one did you use the ECU to power the fuel pump? the second one is I need to know the wires for the ignition the other guy I asked mentioned it in a in a post I already know about the pats need to be deleted there's either two or three wires that need to be hooked up for it to run and that's all I need it to do is run and shift
I'm doing a Ford Maverick swap I have all the engine and battery wiring with the starter wiring alternator wiring I also have the fuse box a pretty good chunk of wiring from the fuse box the pigtail from the fuel tank and from the throttle pedal obviously the ECU and the engine and transmission I didn't have time to get the whole harness because they was about to crush the car I have several questions one did you use the ECU to power the fuel pump? the second one is I need to know the wires for the ignition the other guy I asked mentioned it in a in a post I already know about the pats need to be deleted there's either two or three wires that need to be hooked up for it to run and that's all I need it to do is run and shift
i didnt use the ECU to power the fuel pump, no. the ECU doesn't directly power the pump. there is a fuel pump module that i cut out of the harnesses using the diagrams from that link i posted above. I used the "power" for that module to power my pump, it is a larger gauge wire, from a relay in the engine bay relay box. I did use a mustang sending unit to relay up to my gauges though. (as i am using the mustang gauges) - still working out getting that 100% right (Edit adding for clarity - there are 2 sending units that report to the Cluster and my tank only supports one, so my fuel gauge does work, but only reads "up to" about 1/2 tank, Im working on figuring out how to accurately report the resistance to both.)
Yes there are 3 wires that need to be used for the ignition - i spliced these to my Nissan harness/tumbler so that i could use that "as stock" for the 240.
This diagram is in pg 16 of the "Power distribution - SJB" section after getting into wiring diagrams in that link, but will likely help your progress for tumbler wiring:
(one thing that took me too long to work out is that the numbers next to where the wire "goes into the box' on the diagram - is the pin position of that wire in the connector)
Been a long while. Most recent update, got some authentic Ford inners and built half my axles. my S5 inners do not fit. Got GSP turbo II axles last Christmas and those outers do not fit. I don't know where to source t2 outers. Getting very frustrated as this rear end is holding up my whole project.
Bonus pic. I'll send blast and paint before final fitment
Might want to reach out to Ronin Speedworks and see what they recommend.
I know they sell a Grande Axel kit that uses all Ford Explorer parts for the Ford 8.8 rear end. This alleviates the necessity to hunt down the Mazda parts.
I'm glad you posted here.
My Insta is SIX6SHOT
You can see my recent progress as I just started the full build over again.
It's been a minute, my gf has distracted me with building a 20 x 20 shed.
Last time I touched the rx7 I added 1& 1/4" aluminum spacer and extended the bolts for the stock mustang motor mounts and this is the end result.
I picked up some 2" '54 Chevy motor mounts. NExt I plan on using a hole saw and cutting a 2 1/2 in hole in the frame to weld in a 2"ID pipe and lag bolt to drop this motor a couple inches. I hope to keep this project moving but it is what it is. PSA : I wouldn't buy the Ronin 8.8 swap kit unless you have already sourced your rx7 turbo ll axles. Might have to bite the bullet and do the big axle upgrade unless I can find tII axles that aren't $1300. I can give you a laundry list of axles that do not work. The tulips are stupid hard to find and I might have to go-to a drive shaft shop to figure this issue out.
-later