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Fuel pump went into the factory hanger! It's really small.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
Fuel pump went into the factory hanger! It's really small.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
Yeahhh I'll probably go the same route you went lol
News: I have to move out in 3 months.
Ordered and received my pilot bearing, will install this weekend.
My corolla has a bent rear trailing arm so I'll be replacing that this weekend. Might rebuild my rolla dizzy now that I have a 6tone shop press.
A girl I've been messing with got tested and she's not pregnant, w00t more $ for the rx7!
It'll be around Sept before I get any new parts.
Got a small paycheck last week because I only worked one day so it
New pilot bearing ford racing part no. M-7600-B<br/>I checked the diameter with a micrometer and checked it on the transmission shaft. Cleaned up some surface rust on the inside of the driveshaft seat and shaved some off the bearing. Lightly tapped it in with a hammer and a quarter in shim we use at work as a buffer.
Houston, we have a problem.
So after looking at wicked's 3.7 miata pictures and your(Mach.80) motor mount picture I've come to realize that I don't have bolt holes onthe driver side of my engine for a motor mount. This is what I do have though.
Beefy front 4-bolt mounting area that i could incorporate into a tower bar style system.
The bottom oil pan mounting hole isn't used with the mt82 that i have.
So I'm thinking that I can order the rear plate and weld a bracket off the bottom of it that I can also drill a hole and bolt into the bottom oil pan bolt in case the welds break. All I would have to do is shave bolt clearance in the area pictured next.
Wow! Didn't see that coming. Are there bosses in the cast, where you could just drill and tap?
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
Wow! Didn't see that coming. Are there bosses in the cast, where you could just drill and tap?
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
Nope none that I can tell, there is a profile picture in post 198 that is of my driver's side of the engine.
The oil filter housing is different on the RWD block. I think the mount goes around the pedestal.
The mount is bolted to the block in the same place as the FWD block.
The Ford f150 adapter has forward facing oil cooler lines coming out of the adapter. Ford part no. BL3Z-6A642-D if you guys wanted to turbo without drilling an oil pan for a return line
The mount is bolted to the block in the same place as the FWD block.
The Ford f150 adapter has forward facing oil cooler lines coming out of the adapter. Ford part no. BL3Z-6A642-D if you guys wanted to turbo without drilling an oil pan for a return line
I know you haven't gotten to this point yet but I was wondering how are you planning on making the clutch work with the RX7? Can you reuse the original pedals and master cylinder etc?
I know you haven't gotten to this point yet but I was wondering how are you planning on making the clutch work with the RX7? Can you reuse the original pedals and master cylinder etc?
From what I understand you can use a GT flywheel and clutch kit if you get a 1" plate for your slave cylinder as the stock 3.7 is a heavy dual mass POS that cost $781(just the flywheel) from Ford. I'll have a custom line made or figure that out when it comes closer to that point. I remember reading about a direct replacement master cylinder that is like willwood and bolts right in.
Edit: we have these ultra durable 7/8" polyethylene glass fiber reinforced bearing pads that we use at work to set panels on that should work well(or absolutely terrible) as a slave cylinder plate.
Source info: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum.../778705?page=1
It's just the beginning, but here is the first step to active aero.
I have no idea why I made that funny face! I swear it's not that hard to turn that ****.
Haha.
Next is adding an aluminum "angle iron" for lateral rigidity and channeling to the radiator.
From there ducting to the radiator as well as channeling to the brake duct. I also need
a stop of some sorts to catch the splitter if the rods break. I don't want this thing falling off.
Now, I have ideas to complete this, but if you have better ideas I'd like to hear them.
Air Conditioning finally hooked up!
The front splitter is dialed in and strengthened.
Soon its body work time.
How's the plans for moving going??
Slow, I have till September to move. I got the rear plate last week. I'm glad you got your AC to work, I realized that I can't put the alternator on without the AC compressor. Now I don't have to worry about dead weight, plus I deserve AC.
Yeah the A/C came out better then factory. All the A/C lines are on one side and lay on the frame rail.
The rotary had lines crossing the motor and that kinda looked crappy. Now, you don't even see the lines at all.
