Ford 3.7L V6 fc
#204
JustAnotherFC
iTrader: (2)
Fuel pump went into the factory hanger! It's really small.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
#205
Full Member
Thread Starter
Fuel pump went into the factory hanger! It's really small.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
Installed real easy. It's quiet and you have to put your hand on the pickup to feel it work.
You can however, hear the massive amounts of fuel being moved through the entire system.
It's kinda weird to hear the fuel moving and not really hear the pump.
Started and drove perfect afterward. One thing I noticed that really has me pumped is;
the new pump has a check valve built into it. So, it holds pressure in the feed line.
It holds 40 psi for a long time and ended up holding 25psi overnight. That's huge for me
because the last pump would drain right back into the tank and if I didn't wait til all
the fuel primed to the injectors, I'd look kinda stupid as my car didn't start on the first try.
I now suspect that it'll never be an issue unless it's a long sit.
In addition, I found out my last pump was fine but has the requirement of being below the tank
and no filter before pump itself. Apparently, its a pusher not a sucker. Oh well. I wanted a, new,
quiet in-tank pump anyway.
#206
Full Member
Thread Starter
Btw where are you located?
Edit: nvm checked your tag in your dyno vid lol. I'm on my way to okc right now
Edit: nvm checked your tag in your dyno vid lol. I'm on my way to okc right now
Last edited by 30mpgfc; 05-24-16 at 08:40 AM.
#207
Full Member
Thread Starter
News: I have to move out in 3 months.
Ordered and received my pilot bearing, will install this weekend.
My corolla has a bent rear trailing arm so I'll be replacing that this weekend. Might rebuild my rolla dizzy now that I have a 6tone shop press.
A girl I've been messing with got tested and she's not pregnant, w00t more $ for the rx7!
It'll be around Sept before I get any new parts.
Got a small paycheck last week because I only worked one day so it
Ordered and received my pilot bearing, will install this weekend.
My corolla has a bent rear trailing arm so I'll be replacing that this weekend. Might rebuild my rolla dizzy now that I have a 6tone shop press.
A girl I've been messing with got tested and she's not pregnant, w00t more $ for the rx7!
It'll be around Sept before I get any new parts.
Got a small paycheck last week because I only worked one day so it
#208
Full Member
Thread Starter
New pilot bearing ford racing part no. M-7600-B<br/>I checked the diameter with a micrometer and checked it on the transmission shaft. Cleaned up some surface rust on the inside of the driveshaft seat and shaved some off the bearing. Lightly tapped it in with a hammer and a quarter in shim we use at work as a buffer.
Finished product.
#209
Full Member
Thread Starter
Houston, we have a problem.
So after looking at wicked's 3.7 miata pictures and your(Mach.80) motor mount picture I've come to realize that I don't have bolt holes onthe driver side of my engine for a motor mount. This is what I do have though.
Beefy front 4-bolt mounting area that i could incorporate into a tower bar style system.
Also I need Ford par no.7007 engine to transmission rear plate.
The bottom oil pan mounting hole isn't used with the mt82 that i have.
So I'm thinking that I can order the rear plate and weld a bracket off the bottom of it that I can also drill a hole and bolt into the bottom oil pan bolt in case the welds break. All I would have to do is shave bolt clearance in the area pictured next.
Here
Thoughts?
So after looking at wicked's 3.7 miata pictures and your(Mach.80) motor mount picture I've come to realize that I don't have bolt holes onthe driver side of my engine for a motor mount. This is what I do have though.
Beefy front 4-bolt mounting area that i could incorporate into a tower bar style system.
Also I need Ford par no.7007 engine to transmission rear plate.
The bottom oil pan mounting hole isn't used with the mt82 that i have.
So I'm thinking that I can order the rear plate and weld a bracket off the bottom of it that I can also drill a hole and bolt into the bottom oil pan bolt in case the welds break. All I would have to do is shave bolt clearance in the area pictured next.
Here
Thoughts?
#212
JustAnotherFC
iTrader: (2)
Wow! Didn't see that coming. Are there bosses in the cast, where you could just drill and tap?
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
#213
Full Member
Thread Starter
Wow! Didn't see that coming. Are there bosses in the cast, where you could just drill and tap?
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
I like that cross bar idea, but make sure it won't interfere with the rest of your engineering.
And finally I wouldn't worry about the bottom bolt. Turbo 400s don't even have anything on the bottom half of the trans
#215
Full Member
Thread Starter
The Ford f150 adapter has forward facing oil cooler lines coming out of the adapter. Ford part no. BL3Z-6A642-D if you guys wanted to turbo without drilling an oil pan for a return line
#216
Junior Member
Clutch
I know you haven't gotten to this point yet but I was wondering how are you planning on making the clutch work with the RX7? Can you reuse the original pedals and master cylinder etc?
#217
Full Member
Thread Starter
Edit: we have these ultra durable 7/8" polyethylene glass fiber reinforced bearing pads that we use at work to set panels on that should work well(or absolutely terrible) as a slave cylinder plate.
Source info: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum.../778705?page=1
Last edited by 30mpgfc; 06-13-16 at 08:51 PM.
#218
JustAnotherFC
iTrader: (2)
Active aerodynamics
It's just the beginning, but here is the first step to active aero.
I have no idea why I made that funny face! I swear it's not that hard to turn that ****.
Haha.
Next is adding an aluminum "angle iron" for lateral rigidity and channeling to the radiator.
From there ducting to the radiator as well as channeling to the brake duct. I also need
a stop of some sorts to catch the splitter if the rods break. I don't want this thing falling off.
Now, I have ideas to complete this, but if you have better ideas I'd like to hear them.
.
I have no idea why I made that funny face! I swear it's not that hard to turn that ****.
Haha.
Next is adding an aluminum "angle iron" for lateral rigidity and channeling to the radiator.
From there ducting to the radiator as well as channeling to the brake duct. I also need
a stop of some sorts to catch the splitter if the rods break. I don't want this thing falling off.
Now, I have ideas to complete this, but if you have better ideas I'd like to hear them.
.
#222
Full Member
Thread Starter
#224
Full Member
Thread Starter
Slow, I have till September to move. I got the rear plate last week. I'm glad you got your AC to work, I realized that I can't put the alternator on without the AC compressor. Now I don't have to worry about dead weight, plus I deserve AC.
#225
JustAnotherFC
iTrader: (2)
Yeah the A/C came out better then factory. All the A/C lines are on one side and lay on the frame rail.
The rotary had lines crossing the motor and that kinda looked crappy. Now, you don't even see the lines at all.
Here's the parts starting from the evaporator suction, ending with the pressure side back in the evaporator:
Jeep Air - 87-95 Wrangler YJ Thermostat - Thermostats
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...-port-840.html
3 feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...g/category/25/
https://coldhose.com/specialty-fitti...e-adapter.html
The 90 above could be avoided if you don't have the down pipe right above the compressor like I do.
You could also put your charge ports on the 135* on the compressor. That would be ideal. But, like I
said my down pipe is right there. So, I put my charge port at the evaporator and at the bottom of the condenser.
This make charging more complicated but the heat would have melted the port.
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...s/category/39/
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...g/category/25/
4 Feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...-port-734.html
My condenser has strait in and out so just call them. http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2085.pdf
#125741 Female to Female hard line bent from condenser to evaporator..http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2079.pdf
https://coldhose.com/universal-recei...-fittings.html
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...g-fitting.html
6feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
Lastly is a metric fitting that I reused from my last a/c system. It's a #6 but I'm not sure what size. Sorry.
Don't forget your 8oz bottle of PAG oil and your Freon. Walmart has good deals on the freon. I found
mine at biglots for 7 bucks a can. You'll need 3 cans. It's all the same stuff. No additives just strait freon.
Hope this helps.
The rotary had lines crossing the motor and that kinda looked crappy. Now, you don't even see the lines at all.
Here's the parts starting from the evaporator suction, ending with the pressure side back in the evaporator:
Jeep Air - 87-95 Wrangler YJ Thermostat - Thermostats
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...-port-840.html
3 feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...g/category/25/
https://coldhose.com/specialty-fitti...e-adapter.html
The 90 above could be avoided if you don't have the down pipe right above the compressor like I do.
You could also put your charge ports on the 135* on the compressor. That would be ideal. But, like I
said my down pipe is right there. So, I put my charge port at the evaporator and at the bottom of the condenser.
This make charging more complicated but the heat would have melted the port.
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...s/category/39/
https://coldhose.com/catalog/product...g/category/25/
4 Feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...-port-734.html
My condenser has strait in and out so just call them. http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2085.pdf
#125741 Female to Female hard line bent from condenser to evaporator..http://www.vintageair.com/2015%20Cat...talog%2079.pdf
https://coldhose.com/universal-recei...-fittings.html
https://coldhose.com/fittings/oring/...g-fitting.html
6feet. https://coldhose.com/catalog/product.../category/228/
Lastly is a metric fitting that I reused from my last a/c system. It's a #6 but I'm not sure what size. Sorry.
Don't forget your 8oz bottle of PAG oil and your Freon. Walmart has good deals on the freon. I found
mine at biglots for 7 bucks a can. You'll need 3 cans. It's all the same stuff. No additives just strait freon.
Hope this helps.