Ford 3.7L V6 fc
10-02-15, 08:06 AM
#26
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I might rethink MS as well if they can delete PATS.
10-02-15, 08:48 AM
#27
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Not yet...wiring and MS aettings are the easy part....I just now reached the point I can make engine mounts. It was an insane amount of cutting. Even the starter location gave me a headache...had to make a pocket for it to sit in.
The FC makes for a much easier chasis to work with.
The FC makes for a much easier chasis to work with.
10-02-15, 01:31 PM
#29
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replaced the single piston calipers with 4 piston calipers. O'rilly's took the single calipers as cores for the quads, lol. also got the calipers @ $30 a piece.
missing that little bump guard plastic, other than that the shell is near perfect.
supposidly rebuilt 13b. I did a compression test and got 60 on the rear and 90 on the front. That was cold with no oil in the combustion chamber though... I have since put the motor back in the car. Hope to find time to put everything back together and get her running as a backup in the event my 260k mi Corolla gives me any issues. Got a local who wants to buy the motor when I start my swap. Funny thing is he'll probably give me more for the 13b than what I have got my 3.7l price quoted for($375+tax)
10-03-15, 06:54 AM
#30
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$375? Damn, I miss living in FL, cheap parts everywhere...my duratec 37 cost me $1200...same for the MT82...but then to be fair they did come from a 10k mile wrecked mustang too.
10-03-15, 06:59 AM
#31
That's great. $375! That is a steal and one of the good things about this motor their not considered
high performance like the 5.0 but making 305hp and 30+mpg that's high output for sure.
It'll be nice not to have a dinosaur in my car anymore. Some have said,"Why are you ditching the rotary"? And I say "until Mazda makes a new one, I'll enjoy a little technology for a while".
I too have not come out of pocket for my swap. However, like you, I am using my own labor.
high performance like the 5.0 but making 305hp and 30+mpg that's high output for sure.
It'll be nice not to have a dinosaur in my car anymore. Some have said,"Why are you ditching the rotary"? And I say "until Mazda makes a new one, I'll enjoy a little technology for a while".
I too have not come out of pocket for my swap. However, like you, I am using my own labor.
10-04-15, 05:12 PM
#33
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I was quoted about $1200 for the 35 W/ turbos.... Mt82 will be $600+975 I'm going full budget on this na build. Just enough to get me driving. I'll use my phone as a mph guage and I have a netbook I am going to dismantle and hard wire into the dash for engine information.
10-05-15, 07:38 AM
#34
Aside from cost, the 3.5L is too much work with the direct injection being the limiting factor.
The 3.7 is everywhere and in everything including base f 150 s.
The guys over here at Limitless Performance (LPFbuilt.com) are doing some amazing stuff,
including the 3.7L v6. You can see a tiny bit of the Killer 6 mustang out there on youtube.
The 3.7 is everywhere and in everything including base f 150 s.
The guys over here at Limitless Performance (LPFbuilt.com) are doing some amazing stuff,
including the 3.7L v6. You can see a tiny bit of the Killer 6 mustang out there on youtube.
10-11-15, 09:06 AM
#35
Attempted to start her up. We got all power, accelerator/throttle body responded, we got spark.
Unfortunately, the injectors were not responding.
With some carb spray we got some sign of life though. It seems as if were still in the beta testing
for the "standalone" programming. ...Stay tuned.
Unfortunately, the injectors were not responding.
With some carb spray we got some sign of life though. It seems as if were still in the beta testing
for the "standalone" programming. ...Stay tuned.
10-11-15, 02:17 PM
#36
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Its not initial startup and running I would be worried about tuning with megasquirt...should be fairly easy to make it run...just like any other v6 using a 36-1 wheel. The real fun begins when you start playing with the cam sensors and cam phasers to try to make the factory 300HP out of it. I wish I wasnt working 6 days a week right now...I would love to get back to work on the Miata.
10-13-15, 08:16 AM
#37
Its not initial startup and running I would be worried about tuning with megasquirt...should be fairly easy to make it run...just like any other v6 using a 36-1 wheel. The real fun begins when you start playing with the cam sensors and cam phasers to try to make the factory 300HP out of it. I wish I wasnt working 6 days a week right now...I would love to get back to work on the Miata.
Cheers
10-13-15, 02:34 PM
#41
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Just to clarify you took a factory 3.7l ECU, sent it to a tuner who was able to delete PATS? What all is required? ECU obviously...and the drive by wire pedal...both engine harnesses? Did you have to use the fusebox and cluster? I want more details on exactly what is needed.
10-14-15, 07:30 AM
#42
Yes, we used the factory PCM(ecu), we sent it to Eric at HP Tuners who deleted the pats and whatever magic he did.
We are using the Factory PCM, drive-by-wire pedal from mustang, Engine harness is untouched. I am using the
6R80 auto trans. So you will need the harness to go with that. The trans harness has many things in it that need
to be utilized and I'm sure it's the same in the standard trans as well.
I also have the shifter from a 2011 Lincoln MKZ. you can use a mustang shifter but the mkz cuts down nicely and fits in the
FC3S shifter hole clearing the driveshaft, again this is an auto shifter mechanism.
Lastly, where all the difficult work comes into play, you'll need the fuse box and all wires that are in the Mustang
engine bay. My salvage yard cut the harness just as it goes into the fire wall on the drivers firewall leaving the
brake fluid level harness last on my harness. This proved to be an issue since I needed the harness to the pedal
and shifter and the OBD2. SO I had to go back and buy these pigtails from them at a premium. So, avoid this and
get the entire fuse box harness intact as best as possible.
More details to come.
We are using the Factory PCM, drive-by-wire pedal from mustang, Engine harness is untouched. I am using the
6R80 auto trans. So you will need the harness to go with that. The trans harness has many things in it that need
to be utilized and I'm sure it's the same in the standard trans as well.
I also have the shifter from a 2011 Lincoln MKZ. you can use a mustang shifter but the mkz cuts down nicely and fits in the
FC3S shifter hole clearing the driveshaft, again this is an auto shifter mechanism.
Lastly, where all the difficult work comes into play, you'll need the fuse box and all wires that are in the Mustang
engine bay. My salvage yard cut the harness just as it goes into the fire wall on the drivers firewall leaving the
brake fluid level harness last on my harness. This proved to be an issue since I needed the harness to the pedal
and shifter and the OBD2. SO I had to go back and buy these pigtails from them at a premium. So, avoid this and
get the entire fuse box harness intact as best as possible.
More details to come.
10-14-15, 09:47 AM
#43
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Did you end up having to use the cluster? Thats the sticking point for me...I cant make it fit the Miata cluster housing worth anything...so if I dont have to use it, this would be a great solution. I would only have to buy the fuse box(and associated harness), ECU and drive by wire pedal...I already have the other harnesses.
10-14-15, 10:11 PM
#45
http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=199.0 Go half way down the page to see it installed with the FC faceplate.
But if you have an electrical Speedo in the Miata, then you should be good.
But if you have an electrical Speedo in the Miata, then you should be good.
Last edited by mach.80; 10-14-15 at 10:14 PM.
10-30-15, 10:29 AM
#47
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11-02-15, 03:06 PM
#50
Steering rack is only 1/4 from the oil pan.
I would have to relocate the rack and bump steer would have been unavoidable.
I could have cut the firewall and moved the engine back more, but this is my daily driver and
not a racecar.
I did however, lower the subframe 7/8 of an inch. What I considered a good compromise.
I would have to relocate the rack and bump steer would have been unavoidable.
I could have cut the firewall and moved the engine back more, but this is my daily driver and
not a racecar.
I did however, lower the subframe 7/8 of an inch. What I considered a good compromise.