My FD build
The only proof that the E-brake handle was an authentic Mazda part was the box with a part number (F146-V8-190) and bar coded sticker. No identification on the parts themselves. Came with instructions in Japanese only. It's a good thing that the instructions included pictures. I believe Sean's shift **** is authentic because of the finish and that it looks identical to others that I have pictures of. I wish Mazda had marked these parts somehow for authenticity.
Well, I given it some thought and I've come up with an idea. I'm going to modify my stock auto shifter to accept the titanium shift ****. It will be covered by a shift boot and look just like a manual setup. To change gears, I'll just push down on the **** and move the selector backwards/forwards. As far as reading what gear that I'm in, that's easy-already shown on my auto guage cluster. That's how I can have my cake and eat it too! The only thing that will give it away will be the petals. I can't wait to drive this with the paddle shifters. I'll have to relocate my Greddy profec b and turbo timer to the glovebox, should help with the night driving. Now where am I going to place the new Aquamist guage.....?
Remote Auto Start(have already), always in boost, never have to worry about rolling back down the hill, faster top speed, paddle shifting, never miss a shift, stop-n-go traffic, autos are generally less abused, some of the fastest drag cars are autos, fewer autos=more rare, plus I love to be different!
The Mazda titanium shift **** arrived today! I'm very stoked at the moment. Not a blemish and just as new looking as my(still in the box) e brake lever. THANKS SEAN!!! Can't wait to bring the car home so I can get all these parts mounted. I also heard from Sean @ A-spec Tuning. The manifold's coming together and it has equal length runners. Curious to see how the turbos fit and how the runners look. Hopefully, Sean should have some pictures posted of the progress here shortly.
I was looking at my fuel cell options and found this...
http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/p...l-w-a1000.aspx
I'd prefer a design that has the fuel supply exiting the side, near the bottom. That way, I'd have a straight line to the engine bay. Fuelsafe, ATL, and most others all have fill/wiring/fittings/etc. located on the top. So it looks like I will have to make my support bracket frame deeper to allow for plumbing/wiring to 90 forward and keep my flush look in the hatch, to support my subwoofer enclosure. For the dry break doors, I like the look of these...
http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.a...er=ATL%20RE104
I'm planning on locating one on each pillar next to the door handles. I plan on premixing the fuel in a 5 gal. dump can with the male dry break attached.
http://www.shop.speedunlimited.com/p...l-w-a1000.aspx
I'd prefer a design that has the fuel supply exiting the side, near the bottom. That way, I'd have a straight line to the engine bay. Fuelsafe, ATL, and most others all have fill/wiring/fittings/etc. located on the top. So it looks like I will have to make my support bracket frame deeper to allow for plumbing/wiring to 90 forward and keep my flush look in the hatch, to support my subwoofer enclosure. For the dry break doors, I like the look of these...
http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.a...er=ATL%20RE104
I'm planning on locating one on each pillar next to the door handles. I plan on premixing the fuel in a 5 gal. dump can with the male dry break attached.
Trying to acquire an Atomic Rex manual steering rack also, might be released later this month. Here's your chance to jump in on the latest batch...
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/group-buy-manual-steering-racks-897801/page7/
https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-center-69/group-buy-manual-steering-racks-897801/page7/
I had these guys hook me up with my rotors. http://jhbperformance.com/ I've decided that I'll be needing their services again. But first, I'm going to need some parts and services from these guys.
http://www.rotaryengine.com/ I found rotaryengine.com while looking on the Xtreme Rotaries site. Turns out that they are the exclusive dealer of their parts for N. America. They also have the experience and trust of Xtreme Rotaries to install the parts that they sell. There are a couple of the Xtreme Rotaries parts that I'm building my motor with, the 2 piece eccentric shaft w/. the center bearing, next the 12.7mm studs and last, the side mount alternator bracket. Rotaryengine.com claims that they can get these parts cheaper than if you and I can get them from the source, that plus their machining services could make this a sweet deal. Another claim or theirs is "home of the aluminum 4 rotor" That's awesome! I'm not going that route but I'm waiting to hear back from them to see if they make my rear automatic housing in aluminum. If so, then I'm going to order the intermediate and front housings as well- to replace all of the irons. I saw that Racing Beat also offers these on their website. After the parts are machined, then all of the housings (including my rotor housings) will be sent off to JHB Performance for Cermet X coating. My engine (shortblock) should weigh around a 110 pounds fully assembled. Then I'm still planning on having Daryl Drummond at http://www.drummondengines.com/ assemble and engine dyno the motor, turbo setup and Microtech together.
http://www.rotaryengine.com/ I found rotaryengine.com while looking on the Xtreme Rotaries site. Turns out that they are the exclusive dealer of their parts for N. America. They also have the experience and trust of Xtreme Rotaries to install the parts that they sell. There are a couple of the Xtreme Rotaries parts that I'm building my motor with, the 2 piece eccentric shaft w/. the center bearing, next the 12.7mm studs and last, the side mount alternator bracket. Rotaryengine.com claims that they can get these parts cheaper than if you and I can get them from the source, that plus their machining services could make this a sweet deal. Another claim or theirs is "home of the aluminum 4 rotor" That's awesome! I'm not going that route but I'm waiting to hear back from them to see if they make my rear automatic housing in aluminum. If so, then I'm going to order the intermediate and front housings as well- to replace all of the irons. I saw that Racing Beat also offers these on their website. After the parts are machined, then all of the housings (including my rotor housings) will be sent off to JHB Performance for Cermet X coating. My engine (shortblock) should weigh around a 110 pounds fully assembled. Then I'm still planning on having Daryl Drummond at http://www.drummondengines.com/ assemble and engine dyno the motor, turbo setup and Microtech together.
I heard back from Adam@rotaryengine.com and the aluminum housings do not handle forced induction. So, scratch that idea. He stated a few other reasons as well. The Xtreme Rotaries 2pc shaft will be available in May/June though. Guess I'll put my name on the list.
man, this is crazy, I don't know how I never saw it before. You really are going all out, no expenses spared on this. I don't know how you do it. How are you planning on strengthening the auto for your power levels? You said earlier that you were shooting for 550 or so and I didn't think the autos could handle that.
The auto transmission will be getting around $3-4K in Levelten upgrades. That's my plan. Hell, my custom HRE wheels will cost twice that much! Thanks for the comments guys! It's looking hopeful that this year the motor will be built, lack of funds, conflicting schedules and the wait on parts to become available have drawn the process to a snail's pace over the years. But it's given myself the time to acquire knowledge and meet some really nice folks along the way. Sometimes I work 17+ hrs a day and go several weeks without a day off. Building this FD maintains my sanity and keeps me going. Keep the comments coming.
I spoke with Daryl Drummond about having him build the motor and he declined. Gary Brooks has been too busy to even answer his phone anymore so I'm taking my business elsewhere. Next week I'll be asking for my car back along with all the parts. I'm waiting for Adam at Rotaryengine.com to get a quote put together, so we'll see. If you guys were in my shoes, who would you have build your motor?
I'm planning on going with ceramic coating for several reasons. I thought JHB was the place to go for that, Gary recommended them. Turns out no one else that I've spoken with lately has anything good to say about them. Daryl Drummond recommended Rotaryengine.com for their cermet coating. I can get the Xtreme Rotaries parts and machining done in house there as well. I like one stop shopping, it keeps the blame game at a minimum when something gets questionable. Atkins is closest, but they are not my first choice. I've met Rob Golden, he is awesome! I think he would be my next choice if he offered both services. REC (rotaryengine.com) it is for now. I would love to hear anything good/bad if anyone has experiences with them. Adam has been helpful so far, waiting on a quote from him. I need to get my car back from Gary first so I can start making some progress. Last year he let me come out there one day! The year before that, 2 days. I've been spending money on other things because I forgot that I even had a car with Gary. He never says to come over, every time that I call, I have to beg-only to have him call at the last minute and cancel. Mr Busy is his name. He chose Daryl to build the motor, when I asked Daryl he told me that he's not working on turbo street motors. Sorry, I just felt like venting... Time to move forward.
Alright, it's decided. I'm having REC build the motor. Will be sending it to them before June 2011 as that's when the Xtreme Rotaries' stuff arrives. I'll have a list of parts and services that I'm going with, up shortly. A couple of ideas floating around my mind are yet to be run by Adam before the shipping date also. I'm very comfortable with their pricing quote and selection of mods. Keep in mind, this is going to be my dream engine-it will be over engineered to hopefully exceed my goals of reliability and performance. If I overlook anything feel free to inject your ideas.
More information on the mods performed to the new engine can be obtained by visiting www.rotaryengine.com
Here are some things
being performed to the motor.
Cermet (ceramic-metallic) coating of the iron housings will be performed by first having the riding surfaces milled to create a counter bore (or step). The new contained area will be prepped and sprayed with cermet. Diamond lapping will then be performed to the surface.
Both rotor housings will undergo another process of having the factory chrome removed, etched and will have the new riding surface ceramic coated.
All five housings will receive machining to accommodate the XR 12.7mm studs.
I'm also going to have my prior streetporting reexamined.
The intermediate housing will be machined to accept the center bearing from the XR 2 piece e-shaft.
My cermet coated, scalloped rotors will undergo lightening by removing material on the sides and race clearanced. Then each rotor will be rebalanced on it's own axis.
The entire rotating assy will then be dynamically balanced.
(External oil feed modification) to include blocking of the upper dowel pin passages and oil passages matched. This includes a race pressure regulator and XR blocking plate that are added for a remote oil filter. -10AN fittings will be threaded directly into the end housings to provide a direct external feed to the stationary gears and bearings.
Water jacket modifications, installation of billet welsh plugs(see the Xtreme Rotaries site for details)
3mm NRS apex seals and springs, hoping to get a set of their ceramic corner seals also.
Still have the Xcessive(Ground Zero) oil pan, but considering going with a dry sump system.
Stay tuned for more details as I have a few more ideas that I'm considering.
Here are some things
being performed to the motor.
Cermet (ceramic-metallic) coating of the iron housings will be performed by first having the riding surfaces milled to create a counter bore (or step). The new contained area will be prepped and sprayed with cermet. Diamond lapping will then be performed to the surface.
Both rotor housings will undergo another process of having the factory chrome removed, etched and will have the new riding surface ceramic coated.
All five housings will receive machining to accommodate the XR 12.7mm studs.
I'm also going to have my prior streetporting reexamined.
The intermediate housing will be machined to accept the center bearing from the XR 2 piece e-shaft.
My cermet coated, scalloped rotors will undergo lightening by removing material on the sides and race clearanced. Then each rotor will be rebalanced on it's own axis.
The entire rotating assy will then be dynamically balanced.
(External oil feed modification) to include blocking of the upper dowel pin passages and oil passages matched. This includes a race pressure regulator and XR blocking plate that are added for a remote oil filter. -10AN fittings will be threaded directly into the end housings to provide a direct external feed to the stationary gears and bearings.
Water jacket modifications, installation of billet welsh plugs(see the Xtreme Rotaries site for details)
3mm NRS apex seals and springs, hoping to get a set of their ceramic corner seals also.
Still have the Xcessive(Ground Zero) oil pan, but considering going with a dry sump system.
Stay tuned for more details as I have a few more ideas that I'm considering.
I've been getting other offers for the upcoming engine build and someone has even offered with helping me work on the car. In both cases, the people interested in offering their services are experienced professionals. I've got some time to weigh my options and decide on the best route.







