I haven't spent any time with the car in a few months. I bought the wife a 2011 Jeep JKU Rubicon and have been spending most of my time working overtime to pay it off. I haven't heard from Sean @ Aspectuning in awhile, kind of worries me. I did say that I wasn't in a hurry though. The rotaryrun lights still aren't ready either.

 

Well, still here. And still waiting to hear from Sean@ Aspec tuning. No idea on the lights either. Keeping my hopes up. As the weather gets better, I'm going to start building the fuel setup. -Matt

 

Ordered the Rotary Run Racing light housings today from Evo-R. Here's what's going into 2 of the openings.

 

i would look at hella for the actual headlamp application. i dont think those are legal as headlights, they are similar to fog lights. also they wont be able to light far enough ahead considering the speeds the FD is capable of.

 

No worries, this is what I'm using in the 90mm openings.

 

I had a 7000k hid plug and play kit installed in the stock pop ups. It was a great improvement in visibility. I'm glad that I'll be able to reuse it with the RR housings. The Jw speakers in the outer 120mm openings and these in the inner 90mm locations should be adequate.

 

The Evo R housings arrived today, all the way from Taiwan! Only took about one week from when I placed the order. They were packaged well and there were no damages. These are replicas of the Rotary Run Racing housings. In their raw form, they're sturdy and a little rough around the edges. Some magic from a body shop will be in order before paint. But, overall I'm a satisfied customer. Trimming of the front bumper is also required. The inner light openings measured in at 4 inches with the outer ones at 5.25". They are constructed from fiberglass and weigh in at about 5 lbs. for the pair.

 

I test fit them with the Shine auto project/Fujita Engineering widebody fenders and hood. Not perfect, but nothing the body shop-painter can't handle.

 

Here's a few different angles. Sits pretty flush and the gaps aren't too uneven with the other aero. parts.

 

Here's a few more shots with the Feed version 2r bumper that will trimmed to fit with the housings.

 

Here's another light that I'm considering for the larger openings. If they don't pan out - they'll be going into my Jeep JKU.

 

Looks good. Cannot wait to see the final installed.

 

Thanks once again for making these available, I've had my heart set on them for quite some time.

 

Nice...

 

http://www.rywire.com/
For once I figure out all the details. The quick release plug option, OH Yeah!

 

Finally, spoke with Sean regarding the work that he's helping me out with. Looks like we're still on! The motor will be built by him after all. Very down to earth guy with lots of experience. I'm slowly removing everything from the car trying to get ready for paint and bodywork. The removal of the ABS system is the next hurdle. I have a couple of options regarding an ABS delete set up to ponder. I also found out while removing the wiper motor assy., that it was only installed with three out of the four bolts. Loosely at that, explaining why the wiperblades didn't travel as low as they used to on the windshield. Little details are a big deal with me. Also, on a side note-I did some math and realized that I've spent over 20K just on aero parts.

 

There are a couple of other things to do before paint, need to order a fuel cell and two female dry break receptacles. I'll be placing them rearward of the door handles on the C pillars. I'm planning on doing all my premixing in a 5 gallon dump tank with a male dry break. The fuel cell will take the space of the spare tire well. Will be cutting it out and welding up a frame to support it. Going with (ATL) aero tech laboratories.

 

I took a few pics of the short block, should be on a pallet on it's way to A-spec tuning soon. This motor has 2mm Rotary Aviation seals, new housings which were polished and streetported. Sadly, only 1500 miles before losing compression in the rear section. I looked inside the exhaust ports and didn't see any damage, but I'm no expert. Seals had good movement up/down with strong spring tension. I'm going to get Sean's diagnosis and let you guys know what went wrong.

 

Prepping for shipment, off with the oil pan. I wiped out all the oil left in the motor and made sure all the coolant was drained. Found a few small pieces of sealant on the oil pickup screen.

 

I test fit the driver's front Feed fender. It looks decent. I had to trim off some inner material to fit with the GT Factory hinges. Placement of the driver's door is looking satisfactory at this point. All of the gaps are even at least. I'll need to roll the car outside to fully test the vertical door hinges with the fenders installed due to the low ceiling height of my garage.

 

Test mounted one of the Craftsquare mirrors. Never mind the blue carbon I'm planning on either rewrapping them in black twin weave c.f. or painting to match the exterior.

 

My little helper, until a spider ran her off...

 

So here's the engine bay, I still need to remove a couple of things. 16 hour days at work vs. a few minutes here and there-chipping away when I have some free-time. Just happy to make a little progress when I can.

 

Where did you get the craftsquares. Do you like them. Also how was the mounting.

 

I purchased the mirrors at AutoRND through Rishie. There are options, Craftsquare also makes a mirror assy. that mounts using the stock location. They also sell a block off plate with or without a led turn signal indicator. I'm just going to shave all the holes and paint over them. As far as mounting the mirrors, you'll have to drill holes on the inner side of the door where the triangle shaped trim covers. Hardware is included. The mirrors are built well and easy to adjust. Saves a considerable amount of weight. Losing the ability to electrically adjust the mirrors, and the price will turn most away but, the factory mirrors always reminded me of Shrek's antennas. Plus by mounting over the cheap looking plastic exterior triangles the overall design is improved.