everyone runs no sway bars

 

Till they crash

 

??

 

I drift with sway bars and DTSS still installed.
Never had a problem, never felt like it was holding me back. If anyone can hit me with some real firsthand knowledge why I should be doing otherwise, please do so

 

I felt the same way until I tried running without sways. and with the eliminators. The dtss elims. make your car feel more solid. During your slide the rear wheels are changing to different toes throughout the drift. can be from 0 toe to 2 degrees toe. Which makes it not as solid and controlable. Doesnt mean you cant control it. just means its easier and feels better with the elims.

The sway bars removed feels great. The front I removed for more angle. Got a ton more and my car feels great. almost as if I have more traction. I dont have super stiff car anymore. it gets more body roll but not much. the coilovers help keep it planted. The rear sway I removed to get traction. Fcs feel super good with no rear sway. Gives you more squat so you can plant your tires better. which makes you able to go faster and control your slide better.

Both things dont have to be done. but ive found it feels way way better with them changed. if you feel your car is fine then dont change it. But its like before anyone got coilovers and their spring and strut combo felt fine. **** sucked and was way better with coilovers.

At any rate its a 25 year old car and they all handle like ****. no matter what you do to it. Make it look cool and sound cool and run it into things.

 

 

i can see the DTSS arguement but i like ths "snap" of the FC with sway bars. Theres gotta be a better way to get rear traction without removing the sway bars. Rear alignment, tire size, tires pressure, etc. Removing the sway bar seems like a step in the wrong direction.

 

my suggestion is if you ever plan on doing the dtss elims then do. after you have those installed go to a drift event and unbolt the endlinks on your rear sway bar. drive it for an hour that way and see how it feels. do it open minded. if you convince yourself its going to suck then it will suck. if you want to see how it feels, unbiased, then youll get the feel of it.

I guess you could try it before getting the dtss. but the car will feel different with or without them in.

you could run bigger tires, but then you have other issues. broken drivetrain, tire cost, lack of power, etc. aligning your car is always good. Get the lateral links and camber rod & outer links. then get it aligned. I try to run the rear toe at 0. it works for me. others say to do toe in, in the rear. I messed with it a bit but not much. 0 felt best to me. Also zeero out your camber. I dont know how low you are. but this is hard to do on low low cars. even with the links. 0 camber helps a ton on traction.

Tire pressure depends on how much power I guess. I tried running 28psi in the rear at round one vegas proam. I didnt get amny runs before my car broke but i definately didnt have enough power to go that low. I had to keep clutch kicking like crazy. I was going to up the pressure to 35 but didnt get the chance.

like I said, its not a racecar. its an outdated car. you can only do so much. Make it look as wild as possible and drive it hard.

 

get the dtss emilns. dtss sucks dick and makes the car so inconsistent. you want consistency with a drift chariot.

i haven't ran sway bars ever. sway bars are really a tuning aid. the suspension should be setup without them and then fine tuned with them.

i know that pretty much any serious competition FC does not have sway bars. i'd like to eventually get one on the front and try it out but then again my car goes fast and it's fun to drive so i'm not worried.

 

this

 

alright, going on a supension shopping spree tonight

 

Spent almost two weeks reading every page of this thread, but it was worth it Now i see that everything suspension wise is completely different from S chassis that i used to have and i have to learn how to do stuff all over again
I have a question about eliminating rear camber with shortening stock rear camber links. I am from Europe and there's nothing for sale for fc's here and importing from US is quite costly... Is it enough just to shorten camber links or should i additionally use center (middle) camber adjuster? The goal is to be as close to 0 as possible and i am going super low. And how do you measure exactly how much to shorten them without making camber on both sides different?
Thanks for the input in advance.

 

I cut out the rod section in the middle of mine. then welded the ends back together. I also have the middle adjustable link pretty much maxxed out. and I barely have 0 camber in the rear.

 

Thanks for an answer, i will try to cut them and use adjustable middle link. If it won't work i will have to cash out for individual adjustable links.

 

Really good lookn fc's out thr.. Lots of ideas.

 

ordered DTSS eliminators, MMR camber links and a Battle Version camber arm. Removing my sway bars too.

well see how it works out

 

Interesting on the sway comments... never considered it. I think Ill try it out next time out to see teh difference,

 

Forums /

 

I'm not sure if anybody is still reading this but....

Quick question, what are you guys using for tires? I have 17x9's all around and was thinking 215/40 for the front. And 205/40 in the back. Would that be too little grip in the rear?

I'm running stock turbo II motor so I guess I have at least some power to play with.

 

Seems like personal preference.

Way too small for my liking

 

i run 215/40/17 front on a 17x9 and a 245/40/18 rear.

245's on the rear due to weight for Formula D.

i like smaller tires up front because they allow me to manhandle the steering a ton and make the car super quick in transitions. also because it's low low it helps with getting clearance.

 

215 front and 235 rear. RT615's on 17x9 +12's.

 

Oh god i want all of it.

 

How well do toe links/camber links work out with solid subframe/diff bushings? I've been looking at the solid eBay mounts, but according to some resources you need a little flex for camber/toe adjustment.

 

One of the adjustable links you can buy to adjust camber tilts the whole subframe. I don't know what it's called. Lateral link maybe? Obviously you can't use solid aluminum subframe bushings if you're tilting the subframe. That's why MAX made those ball & cup type aluminum subframe bushings. So it can be solid mounted but still tilt.

The diff doesn't need to move and doesn't hold any suspension pickups so it's fine to mount solid.

In case you missed it..