this is some helpful stuff when your new to fc's

 

anyone on here drift with 205 50 series tires?

the fc is stock bodied so i would prefer 16's but running a 40/45 series lowers the car too much. trying not to have too much space between the tire and fender without excessively lowering it.

btw im n/a switching to a turbo in a couple months. im going to learn with a n/a first before i switch to turbo so im getting suspension mods first like coilovers, bushings, dtss elim, rear camber adjusters, wheels, and tires.

is there anything else i should buy and replace before i beat the **** out of my fc? rather replace the common parts that break all at once so i dont have to replace them for a long time.

 

I have. It sucks. Too unpredictable. When I jumped to a 225/45, that was a little better, but not much. I'd try to stay in the range of 235.

 

205 50 is unpredictable on an n/a? sounds to me like it should be a fine tire size for drifting an na fc.. doubt his car could even spin a 235 with that power. i run 235s and am at about 380hp to the wheels.

 

N/a or not, 205 is a relatively small tire. Yes, it will be easier to spin the wheels, but drifting is not all about hammering down. Slowing down sideways with a 205 sucks. Maybe if are cars were as light as a 86' or something...It will be good to learn with a 205, but if you start making any decent power I would go bigger.

 

Anybody on coils, 17x9/8's with 205/40 series tires? I've been sliding a Miata for a while and trying to get out of the Miata game. Looking to get an FC for this season, but the only thing I'll have time/money for before season starts is coils, diff, and wheels. Just curious how it'd handle without camber/toe links.

 

so what youre saying is that you dont have enough throttle management to effectively use a skinny tire on a low powered vehicle.

i used 205 and 215s exclusively when i was still putting in my old na fc. never had problems with it being too narrow.

 

I don't remember saying that... but if that's what's going then alright. I'm sure other drivers have different opinions, on different tarmacs. I gave mine. I believe that's what the PO was asking for. All in all, 205 will be fine.

 

Hey guys, actually took the time to sit through and read every page. Was long, but informative.

Anyway I'm picking up a new TII from a buddy of mine to use as my track car for this year. Has coils and some other stuff. I've got a manual rack to throw in it to replace the power one in there now. I want to do tie rod ends all at the same time. Looking around seems like just go with either mazdatrix or supernow ends. Only question is should I go with say the supernow kit that has the inner spacers on each side, or go with say the uras full tie rods and a set of ends.

TIA

 

So my first event with my tie rods I got from JTP (GP Sports Super Angle Tie Rods I believe) was last sunday. And going from n/a, to turbo, with better steering angle has completely changed the game for me! I only spun once, and was just sooo much more consistent. Before I'd have to fight so hard to hold the whole course, but on Sunday I only had a few runs where I didn't. I'm stoked to get my JTP knuckles... so if you haven't shipped those out yet, you should! Haha

Also had some fuel cut issues, and could've been worse than it was. So I just bought the Fuel Cut Defender from Racing Beat, so that should get here tomorrow or Friday. I've heard that will literally save my cars life.

 

Quick question for low offset wheel guys. My front tires comes dangerously close to my weld seams in the front wheels wells. Do people just hammer these flat to avoid any contact? Front tires are 225 right now with a -15 offset.

 

i just hammered mine. the seams on the front mostly. takes a lot of energy to move them too..

 

my old chassis was bashed in to avoid that.

new chassis:

 

Thats cool George... 16 gauge? Are u also doing that further back?

 

Maybe this was answered but I think I've gone through this whole thread.. anyways question

Regarding alignment and for those PS rack, is stock caster the way to go?

 

Can't because of FD rules and the control arm gets in the way before the chassis does. Some hammering will commence most likely





A little more than stock caster is good. ~6* is a good starting point

 

i actually just addressed this the other day. i kinda snagged your idea george. always wanted to, but never really got the urge to do it, until i saw how nice yours came out.

rxbro: you can't alter anything more than a few degrees behind the strut tower (hammering) per FD rules.

however FC's have those huge "boxed" sections where like 4 separate pieces of metal come together, and considering my front wheel setup is -38 effectively, the wheels at angle get pushed closer to the kickpanels, and that "boxed section".

if you hammer the tin up, the welds will break free, or you can flap disc/cut the welds down. (youll see what im saying when you look its like 1, or 2 per side)

pretty much just hammer the tin up, and then I hammered the boxed/joint section of metal up to where i hammered the tin, and welded it up. now it's no where near hitting. didnt move anything more than 1"-2" height wise which from what it seems is acceptable per the 2010 rulebook i had printed.

honestly would be way cool if FD would allow guys to do rear tubs, so **** doesnt look all gay hammered and smashed in... can't even do a false rear tub, because in all reality it's adding "supplemental bracing" there...


this is the only pic i have right now of the boxed gusset looking ***** thing im talking about behind the front wheel

 

Instead of starting a new thread, I thought this be the best place to ask.

I'm thinking on putting tie rod spacers. Found some for cheap and easy to install but I wad curious on the toe. If I spaced it, wouldn't my tires be negative toe. My wheels wld point away from the car. How do I get a angle from spacers without the toe?

 

You adjust the toe back to normal after putting the spacers in. The spacers then let the rack travel farther because it moves the stops out further. That's what gives you more angle.

 

Sounds simple. But doesn't make sense. Cuz if I add more thread it will give me more travel but toe. You say adjust it back but that means screwing the thread back in . Idk lol but thanks. I'll just do it and see it what it looks like.

Any idea what thread size fc tierods are? 14mm 1.25?

 

@ Get Nutz

 

Rack spacers go between the inner tie rod and the rack. The toe is adjusted between the inner tie rod and outer tie rod. Make sense now?

 

Yes. I read a thread where dood used a s13 tie rod end. Read all of that and made more sense to me. Can't wait.

Also like to add, I drift a n/a streetport with 215/50/17 in the rear and 215/45/17 in the front. Tire pressure is critical. The rear I run 65 psi. Anything lower than 45 I get wheel hop sometimes. Front is 50 for some grip to corner and since I'm n/a I slide my front tires as well. I change all four in between most runs at the track.

 

Regarding tie rod setup...

I heard there is some play in Mazdatrix outer tie rod ends, anyone else have experience with Mazdatrix ends and this? I read this in an outdated thread so maybe this has been addressed?

I am looking to stay away from knuckles right now and my options seem to be GP Sports, SuperNow, and Mazdatrix angle kits.

Mazdatrix seems to be the easiest to get. Does anyone stock GP Sports or SuperNow in the US or do I have to go through RHDJapan or something? If Mazdatrix is good, than I'll most likely go for those.

 

I like to say mazdatrix is good. But I've seen and heard they are crap. A lot of people including jtp I believe uses gp sports. Check out the first page of this thread. If he uses it then its deffently the best